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Australian RIPP Install (RHD)

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38K views 219 replies 25 participants last post by  GMAC 
#1 · (Edited)
Thought I'd start a separate thread on how the RIPP install goes for us RHD. I've ordered the RIPP kit with a Black Intercooler (just to attract less attention).

Install: Prior to the Install I've spoken with:
RIPP: Send them photos of our RHD engine bay and there was nothing obvious about our layout to prevent the install of the kit as is.
Jeep: I've taken the install instructions to my Jeep Service Centre (Artarmon NSW), who don't see any issue either and are happy to do the install
EVO Compliance: These guys do Compliance/Engineering Certificates and think the kit looks good. Only areas to note on the kit is it will need to include a "Plumb Back" for the Blow Off Valve (mandatory in Australia). We also need to do a IM240 Emissions Test.


Costs: In addition to the purchase price of the Kit:
Shipping to OZ (NSW) is about US$400.
Duty/Taxes: Apart from the 10% GST, I "think" there is no more duty on parts thanks for the FTA - https://www.dfat.gov.au/fta/ausfta/outcomes/12_automotive.html which I presume is in force now.
Install: I'll get the Jeep Dealer to do it, they will charge normal workshop time so I guess it is say A$1,500
Compliance: EVO Compliance quoted A$1,500 for the certification including a brake test due to the increase in power being over 20% from stock. Apparently this part only needs to be done once per kit, so they don't have to test each car they do, just the first.
IM240 Emission Test: Free in NSW (RMS in Botany do this).

I'll keep this thread updated as the install goes.

Thanks
Nathan
 
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#150 ·
It's pretty hard to get wheel spin and I've only done it once from the side of a road (could have been some loose gravel). Apart from that it just griiiippps! On the Rims, the Tyre shop I was put onto is used by the dealer for all their after market needs and they had in stock the Rims I wanted (stock size but in matt black). Your dealer may be able to recommend a similar shop in Melb?
 
#152 ·
I'm looking for some new tyres as well. I might poke around through the threads and see if anyone's already done some research on street performance tyres.

I'm glad to hear you got decent trade-in value on the new run flats. If I could get an even swap for the new tyres that would be amazing!

Cheers,
Bill
 
#153 ·
Just did a day of hard driving at a Performance Driving Course and it was superb + the entire field (including the instructors) loved the car and all got a ride in the back pulling a bunch of straight line runs.

The only thing I have to have a look at is at the end of half a dozen runs my air filter came of the blower (I got a check engine light - rich fuel). While it was stinking hot, it was easy to push back (and I'll clear the code). I also found during my install of the newer air filter that as I tightened the clamp it tended to push the filter off the blower instead of clamping it down (if that makes sense). I'll have to have a look on the Weekend (as I'm away with work now), but any suggestions?

Thanks
Nathan
 
#154 ·
Mmm got the P0172 (System Too Rich) code back and it has been running rough at idle (around 700rpm) since the Course. I've sent some logs to RIPP to see what they may contain, but it all seems fine while driving, any ideas?

Thanks
Nathan
 
#158 ·
I'm confident they will. It feels like a diesel at idle but as soon as you hit 1K RPM it is fine. I've noticed no issues apart from this post my day or "hard" driving on the track.... still you want a no issues experience with such a mod.
 
#159 ·
Can only go with what I know from modifying my bikes, but after a big day spanking them, some times the power commander modules or in this case, the Diablo tuning module is learning or re-learning the car. I have had my Harley's get full custom Dyno tunes and then I hit it hard one day and the bike runs rough on low idle. I either hard reset the bike, or disconnect battery and back to normal. Only once did I have to take one of my bikes back to Dyno to get the rough idle tuned out. And the more you ride it, the better the bike becomes.

I think you are seeing your jeep learning the SC and how it operates. I'm expecting my jeep will be the same once it lands here and I get my RIPP installed. Rough idle is either to lean or can be too rich on fuel. Keep an eye on your gauges and use your 5 senses to gauge how the jeep is running. Sound and smell can tell a lot how a car is running. RIPP will be able to, or should be able to tell you where the issue lies, if it's a data issue.

This is only my 2 cents worth, and I have absolutely no experience in modding cars full stop. Only bikes.
 
#160 ·
RIPP got back suggesting to check the Spark Plugs and I took it the Jeep Service Centre (who did the install as well) and they agreed that it was probably just a spark plug (or maybe an injector). It is booked in for Monday and they said it was fine to drive (but keep off any hard driving till they check it out).

FYI - they also said they are seeing interest from other SRT customers so I let them know about the Group Buy (no idea if they will pass this on however).

RIPP also sent me this excerpt to keep in mind:
****Road racing with the factory manifolds and cats is not advisable - the exhaust temps will get staggering and this light will trigger - Its heavily advised that if you go road racing a header be installed to disipate cylinder head temps and avoid high CAT temps. The rich code was trigger in an effort to save your engine, we fuel enrich and pull timing to cool cats down.
 
#161 ·
I cant remember if you have done any other mods nath ?
But with what ripps said you do need the correct supporting mods to have a reliable ride ie injectors, plugs, filters, exhaust full system . people say you dont need headers and so forth but hey more air in more out right?
more is more so you need the backup.
if you haven't got header skip at demon did mine cheaper shipped than i could get kooks here or in usa . TIP: dont try and install your self on RHD models :D
 
#162 · (Edited)
The pulled the spark plugs and a couple of them are shot while others look still new. He is thinking some crap may have gone through the system when the air filter came off as one is pitted (but thinks the rest of the engine componentry is fine and I've "dodged a bullet".... so looks like I'm just up for some replacement plugs). He has some pics that he is going to send. So while we wait for new plugs to arrive the existing ones have been re-gapped and while it is a bit better the idle is still rough (I'll be away for work most of the week anyway).

Pretty good service team at SVM Artarmon (Chatswood from next week), as they did not even charge me! Highly recommended.

Thanks
Nathan

Edit - reading this site - http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/technical-information/spark-plug-analysis
I'm going with excessive heat!
 
#163 ·
The pulled the spark plugs and a couple of them are shot while others look still new. He is thinking some crap may have gone through the system when the air filter came off as one is pitted (but thinks the rest of the engine componentry is fine and I've "dodged a bullet".... so looks like I'm just up for some replacement plugs). He has some pics that he is going to send. So while we wait for new plugs to arrive the existing ones have been re-gapped and while it is a bit better the idle is still rough (I'll be away for work most of the week anyway).

Pretty good service team at SVM Artarmon (Chatswood from next week), as they did not even charge me! Highly recommended.

Thanks
Nathan

Edit - reading this site - Spark Plug Analysis - Technical Information - NGK Spark Plugs Australia
I'm going with excessive heat!
We've been in contact with Nat via email as well.

Road racing with the stock manifolds/cats is not advisable - the heat from the cats can cause extensive heat at the cylinder head. The tune is designed to pull the timing back and richen up the fuel to cool the temps down. The plugs may have suffered during this process, we would bore scope it to check piston integrity and possibly do a compression test, just in case.

Hmm, something through the air filter? Check the superchargers impeller see if it has trace or marks of something ingested, even so how would it get past the intercooler? Unless is was sand.

RIPPTECH
 
#166 · (Edited)
So here is the close up pics and results.

"Cylinders 1 and 2 Spark Plugs Damaged....Carried out boroscope checks on all cylinders. Found slight marks on C1 and 2, rest of cylinders all OK."

We ended up replacing all spark plugs anyway and carried out the 1 year services and they think the "slight marks" are OK. Boro(e)scoped the SC impeller and that was fine. Compression test was also fine.

Post the service I'm getting some odd gear shifts in Auto (fine with the flappy paddle) and the occasional rough idle (and it seems to throw the Rich Fuel error still at this point) but both seem to be settling down and I've only driven it in traffic for about 1 hour. Spoke to the Service Centre who said the fuel monitor sensor may also be fouled from the rich exhaust and to see how it settles back in.

Thanks
Nathan
 

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#168 ·
Yeah lets see what RIPP say as I'm not sure if the scratches matter at all - Jeep did not seem to think so but....... qhy do I get the feeling I'm about to see a recommendation for forged pistons :)
 
#169 ·
Welcome to the never ending cycle. :) Mine is 100% stock at the moment but my other car is heavily modified. Not sure if I want to go down that path with the SRT just yet.


I know of one SC SRT that's currently being re-built as ringlands decided they wanted to divorce the pistons. Lasted about 2,000 k's
 
#171 · (Edited)
The beast is much better post changing the Spark Plugs - Just did another trip Syd-Cbr-Syd and got a 11.0 l/100km there and 8.9 back (full loaded and with 4 of us + luggage) and just did a PB of 3.6 0-100 this morning (22deg cent and just using std LC) :) .

I'm still getting a Rough Idle and CEL P0172 however and after some googling it looks like I need to try:
1) cleaning my K&N filter +
2) cleaning my Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor - EDIT: I don't even know if our Trucks have a MAF Sensor to clean!

I'll report back on this!

Also any other RIPP's in Oz?
 
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#175 ·
Great to hear the beast is firing again after just a change of plugs. Was a bit nervous for you there. Will be interested to hear how you get on with the rough idle.

3.6sec 0~100 is insane. I finally managed to give mine a few real runs and managed a 4.6 on a cool day at sea level which felt quick to me. Can't imagine what a full second quicker would be like.

Any issues with the transmission at all? For some reason I had always thought the ZF auto had a max input of 700HP, obviously that figure is actually 700nm. Doesn't leave much room to play over the stock 625nm.

I ended up having to put my SC purchase on hold until updates for the 2015 model come through. Other than that not sure what other SRT RIPP's are out there. Pretty sure Mark's workshop have done a couple, think there are a couple in Brisy in progress too.

Have to agree somewhat with Luster's comment however. I've now been in contact with three performance shops regarding SC kits and RIPP have been by far the most difficult to get consistent communication from. No doubt it is because they are so busy, bit of a pity really as I still think they offer the best kit for a stock SRT.

We'll see how 2015 goes...
Yes it's a shame the RIPP pre sales service hasn't been a bit better. I'm sure they're very busy, but if you're going to spend those kind of dollars on a kit and void the engine warranty on your pride and joy, you'd like to feel pretty sure about your purchase. I know a fair bit about cars, but a bit of hand holding would still go a long way in my book. I contacted them regarding the 5.7L kit for my Overland many months ago and received the same sort of responses then as well.

I'm still considering the RIPP kit, but I've also begun to look at a very impressive kit put together by Skip @ Demon Performance.

Cheers,
Bill
 
#173 ·
Great to hear the beast is firing again after just a change of plugs. Was a bit nervous for you there. Will be interested to hear how you get on with the rough idle.

3.6sec 0~100 is insane. I finally managed to give mine a few real runs and managed a 4.6 on a cool day at sea level which felt quick to me. Can't imagine what a full second quicker would be like.

Any issues with the transmission at all? For some reason I had always thought the ZF auto had a max input of 700HP, obviously that figure is actually 700nm. Doesn't leave much room to play over the stock 625nm.

I ended up having to put my SC purchase on hold until updates for the 2015 model come through. Other than that not sure what other SRT RIPP's are out there. Pretty sure Mark's workshop have done a couple, think there are a couple in Brisy in progress too.

Have to agree somewhat with Luster's comment however. I've now been in contact with three performance shops regarding SC kits and RIPP have been by far the most difficult to get consistent communication from. No doubt it is because they are so busy, bit of a pity really as I still think they offer the best kit for a stock SRT.

We'll see how 2015 goes...
 
#176 ·
3.6sec 0~100 is insane. I finally managed to give mine a few real runs and managed a 4.6 on a cool day at sea level which felt quick to me. Can't imagine what a full second quicker would be like.
I second that... 3.6 0-100 is crazy fast!

Any issues with the transmission at all? For some reason I had always thought the ZF auto had a max input of 700HP, obviously that figure is actually 700nm. Doesn't leave much room to play over the stock 625nm.
I'm curious about this as well. I was reading a thread here about a twin turbo install on a SRT that was producing 800+hp and they reported the trans was holding up fine, but I'd still be a bit nervous.
 
#174 · (Edited)
You would think the RIPP sales team would be keen to flog as many as possible!

Shifting is fine, though in Auto it seems to take a bit to "learn" when to shift after any TSB update. I did read a blurb from RIPP about working back from the Max Trans Spec to get their boost of around 5-6psi to be "safe"
-----------------------------

I've put my older smaller K&N airfilter back on as I clean it (the original one from the Ripp Kit without the plumb back fitting).

I noticed there was some black oil between around the throat of the SC where it meets the Air Filter. I cleaned it out, reset the rich code and so far it has not come back and seems to idle better... but we will see.

FYI - I'm not sure where this oil is from (but would explain a Rich Code). The K&N Filter uses a Red Oil Spray, and I've checked the oil in the SC and it is red as well (and looks clean). I check the oil level in the SC but I'm not sure if I'm reading the oil level correctly as the dip stick is on an angle but it is at least max (first oil change for the SC is 2,500Miles) so I'll get that changed and checked by the dealer in Jan.
 
#177 ·
I'm still getting my RIPP unit installed by Marks Workshop. Been O/S for couple of weeks and Marks Workshop is shut due to holidays. Waiting to ring them next week to get an update on whether my kit has arrived and when I can book mine in for the install.....
 
#178 ·
Looking forward to hearing how you go!

----------

On the Rough Idle - I've tinkered the last couple of days with the air filters, plumb back, BOV settings, even pulled the MAP sensor to check it out (looks fine), but no dice. I've grabbed some logs and sent them to RIPP to have a look at when they are back from holidays.

In the mean time is there anyting else I should look at?

Thanks
Nathan
 
#180 ·
Just had the dealer do all the new ECM flashes for the car and I've now got an e-mail from RIPP saying a new tune is out so I've started that flash process. Will let you know how it all goes. :)
 
#182 ·
...actually I'm sorta holding out for a miracle cure to my intermittent rough idle!

Anyway all the flashes are done and overall the Jeep drives well, with nice crisp and smooth gear changes under boost straight off the bat.

Time will tell on the rough idle. After picking it up from the dealer it was perfectly smooth. The symptoms for this have varied but in the last couple of weeks it appears after a while sitting at idle (say at the lights), I'll get the CEL for either/or both 172/175 (System Rich) and then it will go rough. It is like the computer has decide to play with the air/fuel mix without needing to. I "could" be bad/fouled 02 sensors prior to the cat (or MAP sensor) but..... I'm just guessing. No CEL post all the flashing so I'll see how it goes.
 
#183 ·
JMONE, dropped mine off today to get my SC with the bigger intercooler installed. It will get dyno before and after. May see it back before end of the week. It's done when it's done and I'm in no rush. Want it running sweet and not throwing codes.
 
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