Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Ripp installed.

Tags
ripp
10K views 44 replies 11 participants last post by  Pr3SSur3 
#1 ·
Got the RIPP kit installed with the stage 2. Piping was kind of wonky. Brackets for the big IC was kind of wonky. Overall install took way longer than the predicted 5-6 hours because we had to fabricate some new brackets. Piping hit the top of the hood no matter what, had to notch the bottom of the vent. Overall, its a decent kit. Not incredibly stoked with the power gain, but the BOV sure does sound nice. Hopefully after a Johan tune it wakes up a little more.
 

Attachments

See less See more
3
#4 ·
The longer you drive it the less you feel the added power. If you don't feel it right away, it only gets worse from there. We get used to the power quickly after we drive them once power has been upgraded. Also not a big fan of centri blowers in these trucks. With 5300 LBS of weight, they benefit greatly from PD blowers, which is why I went with a Whipple; much more bottom end grunt.

Centri blowers don't require much more custom fit other than a few brackets, unlike a PD blower that requires a serious amount of engineering and design to fit the specified vehicle, which also means the companies behind the PD blowers are usually much larger entities, and spend much more on R&D.

Most centri blowers use a universal Vortech head unit...which are better suited to racing applications. I always found PD blowers to be way more fun in the street. I have some cars with PD and some with centri blowers. I much prefer the PD's. There always some to be some annoying, stupid fitment issues with the centri blowers, just due to lousy R&D, or a lack of it altogether.

Most companies building centri kits are buying the head units from Vortech, unlike Whipple/ Magnusson/ Eton/ Paxton/ Rousch/ Eldelbrock...etc, who build their own kits from scratch, with perhaps the exception of the intercoolers.

I also hate the BOV's making all that noise - LOL
Just my .02 cents worth...YMMV
 
#13 ·
Exactly, it's pretty much always the tune, or lack of. I'm running 8.5 PSI (almost 9 PSI when temps are in the sub zero's) but have no issues after a few thousand miles of hammering. I'm running 580 RWHP (dialed way down).

So, the major differences I have seen in the Jeep world, is that many who install blowers use a canned tune, or a tune and datalogger for remote tuning.

In most other cases I see with performance tuning, I see guys putting their cars on Dyno's during the build and tuning, with very extensive tuning taking place. That's something I don't believe you can achieve to the same degree of precision with just datalogging and remote tuning. I also notice that many of these blown engines are using tunes by the same "tuners".

The guys I use for tuning have a lot of experience building and tuning SRT's of both generations. The tuner there had explained what the issues are in the 6.4's and what to avoid during tuning, which is timing. When we tuned, on the Dyno and in the streets, he left a lot of timing and leaning out of the tune, to run much safer. So, I'm not fully optimized on AFR or timing, and we figure there's about 50-70 HP left in there, if I want to go ahead and forge internals, namely pistons.

Eventually, I'll do that and unleash the rest of what's there at 8.5 PSI.

That said, the Centri blower should still be kicking ass, but at 5 PSI, it won't blow your socks off. If you have a good local tuner who knows these builds, get a smaller pulley and belt and let them tune at @ 8.5 PSI. That will make a huge difference.

I run one of my cars with 18.5 PSI on a Vortech YSI blower, making 1050 RWHP and it belts out a hell of a lot of power. I can't even put it down because I never built the drivetrain, so I'm running Nitto's that just spin at part throttle in any gear at any speed. LOL

Your issue isn't the BOV or the blower; it's the tune and low boost you're making, that's all. Get a good tuner who's done these trucks and let them make the changes you need. You'll never look back.

@ Fairbird...either one will net you pretty much the same overall power and speed in this case. RIPP isn't Whipple. The two are just very different in the way they deliver the power. But if each were to optimally tune @ 8.5 PSI, you'd probably see pretty much the same power from each. One makes more TQ at low speed and the other makes it high speed. One uses a BOV, the other doesn't. One looks factory installed, the other doesn't. Etc..etc....etc....

RIPP doesn't build a thing...they just assemble kits and maybe bend some tubing. Vortech blowers are available to anyone. They use the Vortech V3 SI trim blower, good for about 700 RWHP in a solid build. All RIPP does is either fabricate the bracket, or have it done by a machine shop and they ONLY do a few Dodge / Jeep vehicles, nothing else. They are a small garage style kit builder. They don't build the blower, the BOV, the intercooler, the pulleys, etc...

Most of the blown 6.4's I've heard about are equipped with RIPP kits and RIPP base tunes....

Whipple is a whole other story...

YMMV
 
#14 ·
I agree it's all tuning , but my buddies whipple slower on low speeds too lol . Well I'm not running can tune I went thru 25 -30 revisions , since I have 5000 on the kit and 9000 on the truck , runs good , idk how much power but 3.4 all the time and below 12 sec 1/4 mile constantly . All that makes me think that Ripp is a good kit .
Ps my other car I'm running 37 psi and can put the power to the ground , cheers :)
 
#17 ·
Throw some Pistons in and turn up the boost


Storm Trooper
 
#26 ·
How are you getting 6 to 7 pounds of boost out of the RIPP kit. I just had mine dynoed with a RIPP kit. I only got barely 490 hp at the wheels and max boost was just at 5 psi at 5,500 rpm. Had it custom tuned very conservatively. Tuner noticed canned RIPP tune was about 25% too rich at idle/lower speeds and too lean up top causing two degrees of knock. They cleaned it up where AFRs were consistently I believe around 11.93.


Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
 
#30 ·
Moving up past 8-9 PSI on stock internals would probably cause damage eventually under repeated WOT, even with the timing retarded as you mentioned. I run 8-8.5 with seriously retarded timing and I think I'm about at the limit with the stock internals...

I wouldn't go to 13 until I forge...but that's just me...FWIW

When I do forge - late summer, I'll go to 12-14 PSI and unleash the beast...and build the drivetrain.
 
#36 · (Edited)
YSI is good for well over 20 PSI, but you need to build the correct bracket for it...and I think it's also going to need the 10-rib belt.

You'll have to pin your crank with that much boost, IMO.

I have a YSI in my 08 Z06 making over 1000 WHP...and it's a monster blower. I think you'll also need to look at more crankcase venting if you go big boost like that.

My buddy just did his 08 LS3 motor with a YSI and it's making over 1050 WHP with his A6...the things is insane, but they're pretty reliable. Oh, and you'll need a BOV that can handle the YSI...thas ones made for smaller SI blowers won't work for the big YSI. (Don't ask me how I know) LOL
 
#39 ·
Hey guys, sorry we're a little late to the game on here. Have you had any correspondence with our guys in our tech dept? As far as fitment goes, you should not be running into all these issues. We did an abundance of R&D on these kits with a multitude of different SRT's. With the piping and IC this should be a pretty straight forward install. We're here to help in anyway necessary.
What's going on with the power? Any other modifications other than the blower? Personally driven the gen2 system on our shop SRT, this thing hits like a sledge hammer to the chest.
As a RIPP client, we're here to cover all bases and ensure you have the best experience possible. Our entire team puts an enormous amount of time and effort into what we sell. That's why when you call us someone picks up right away. We take every matter on a personal level and do our very best to help. We'd love to find out more information to get to the root of the issue.
 
#40 ·
Only other thing I have right now is a GThaus system. I bought the 10 lb belt and pulley from you guys, and am installing it a long with forged engine components and headers. We will see where we are after that. I have a different person dropping the engine for rods/pistons so maybe he can make everything fit a little better.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top