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Calling all with Road Magnet moderate do I need anything else?

4K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  Black Ops Auto Works 
#1 ·
Just wondering I plan on getting the road magnet moderate 1/1.8 drop this coming spring/summer and wondering if anything else is needed such as the replacement control arms to correct any camber issues. I have a 2012 srt8.

Are the control arms only needed for the aggressive drop? If so that is great and saves me alot of money.

Thanks
 
#4 ·
The rear will max out no matter what drop we do unfortunatly these trucks are not really designed to go low.


http://www.jeepgarage.org/f97/road-magnet-review-65212.html

Post#6 is the alignment sheet from the Extremes and an explanation of the use of Camber in a performance application.

it's not all bad if we are modifying or vehicles to perform better. The trade offs when modifying for performance are not replaceable buy some magic solutions unfortunately some things we just have to accept to make our vehicles perform. Even with the Arms some camber should remain to track better and I don't meant Race Track with that term I mean just performance and turning capabilities.

The Arms are not just for Camber they stiffen up the rear because of the harder bushings and stiffer material this gives less flex throughout the entire rear. These where FEA tested not just welded or cut by some CNC shop they work and will not fail because they where tested.

We are also doing the end links because I have gotten some pictures of the ones that are out majorly failed because they where designed wrong entirely.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Last two paragraphs yes my Arms will correct these issues with Camber and Toe.

The last paragraph has to do with the links. The 2012 End links do not work as designed as you can see they need to swivel as I've posted someplace else here on the forums what they should look like.

Stiffening the rear is one thing but no matter how hard the bushing are or how thick the links are they will pop out if designed wrong. As you can see here a customer has sent me some pics of his and the issues his had.






Good side you can see the bolt is off center and stressed of the end.
No Bueno'



My goal in the rear is to reduce deflection which helps decrease wheel hop and increase traction. I have one of the best designers in the industry running FEA tests on everything I am doing. These suspension options may not be cheap but I'm committed to making the highest quality working parts available these trucks deserve high quality parts.

We should be able to have the entire rear done before summer.
 
#8 ·
Most of the endlinks Ive seen were like that. Took me 2-3 times to get mine that good on my 13'. I didn't even bother adding them on my 14'
 
#10 ·
so are the adjustable control arms necessary with the mid-level lowering springs? I'd rather get the lip but if they are required I'll go that route lowering is required. Or can you align close enough without them?
 
#13 ·
Installed some larger washers today, im sure it's just a band aid but if it keeps them from popping out I'm good with it. On the top bolt you can see a slight gap between the bushing and the hoop of the link. Not sure why they would not be designed to swivel. It's almost like the bushing has to hold some weight and pushes out after the bushing wears out. Mine have been on for about 1k and looked perfect but i want them to hopefully last so that's why i tried the larger washers, for $5 it's worth a shot
 
#14 ·
So I just got to the rears today to see if the bigger washers would help, no way in hell will it. The sway bar is almost yanking down on the bushing in the sway bar link. No washer is gonna fix that issue. On the fronts there is a chance, the rears hell no! What a bad design, I think they would work if the hoop was angled down more so it didn't pull the bushing down. It's almost as if they just welded it together and said those will be fine...
 
#15 ·
It's almost as if they just welded it together and said those will be fine...
Well said and exactly what was done with everything who knows if the welds are even strong if they fail it's your life you really want something like that on your rig? I am spending the money to FEA test every single part we do on the suspension to guarantee nothing will fail on ya. Their is a difference and you get what you pay for wait until the Arms start to show up at peoples door steps.
 
#19 ·
Would better bushings help, like from energy or another company? What size busbing wiuld we need from energy? When I had the fronts off I was looking at them and the bwoody bushings are soft idk if they are even neoprene I think they are just rubber. Some harder ones I'd think would help may not solve it but these are just terrible.
 
#21 · (Edited)
The fix:D

The sway bar should be placed back to OEM position. We have calculated this via Computer design and our links will place the Sway bar back to OEM position for lowered applications. We are also making the same length as the OEM links for those who what to keep ride hight OEM and just upgrade their links. With ^ said we will offer two different lengths for anyone's application.

Your picture above is the sway bar trying to be in the OEM position. Not only is it under stress from that but the swivel needs to be their a solid mount is not engineered to work properly on the Jeeps.

 
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