Just wondering I plan on getting the road magnet moderate 1/1.8 drop this coming spring/summer and wondering if anything else is needed such as the replacement control arms to correct any camber issues. I have a 2012 srt8.
Are the control arms only needed for the aggressive drop? If so that is great and saves me alot of money.
I have the 1.8" in the back and the rear is maxed out at -1.8 camber. Im gonna end up with some sort of solution to bring the camber down just have not decided what yet. Front is good, rear may still get some inner tire wear being that negative
Post#6 is the alignment sheet from the Extremes and an explanation of the use of Camber in a performance application.
it's not all bad if we are modifying or vehicles to perform better. The trade offs when modifying for performance are not replaceable buy some magic solutions unfortunately some things we just have to accept to make our vehicles perform. Even with the Arms some camber should remain to track better and I don't meant Race Track with that term I mean just performance and turning capabilities.
The Arms are not just for Camber they stiffen up the rear because of the harder bushings and stiffer material this gives less flex throughout the entire rear. These where FEA tested not just welded or cut by some CNC shop they work and will not fail because they where tested.
We are also doing the end links because I have gotten some pictures of the ones that are out majorly failed because they where designed wrong entirely.
Chad you talking about the sway bar links? My biggest thing about the camber is I don't stick well off the line with so much negative camber in the rear, the tires already don't stick well and now they spin worse lol
Last two paragraphs yes my Arms will correct these issues with Camber and Toe.
The last paragraph has to do with the links. The 2012 End links do not work as designed as you can see they need to swivel as I've posted someplace else here on the forums what they should look like.
Stiffening the rear is one thing but no matter how hard the bushing are or how thick the links are they will pop out if designed wrong. As you can see here a customer has sent me some pics of his and the issues his had.
Good side you can see the bolt is off center and stressed of the end.
No Bueno'
My goal in the rear is to reduce deflection which helps decrease wheel hop and increase traction. I have one of the best designers in the industry running FEA tests on everything I am doing. These suspension options may not be cheap but I'm committed to making the highest quality working parts available these trucks deserve high quality parts.
We should be able to have the entire rear done before summer.
so are the adjustable control arms necessary with the mid-level lowering springs? I'd rather get the lip but if they are required I'll go that route lowering is required. Or can you align close enough without them?
The arms should be done with any drop will just make it a solid set up.
The install unfortunately has nothing to do with the link failure I think Toms are doing this too the bushing is forced out because that is the softest part so over time they pop they are built wrong.
Installed some larger washers today, im sure it's just a band aid but if it keeps them from popping out I'm good with it. On the top bolt you can see a slight gap between the bushing and the hoop of the link. Not sure why they would not be designed to swivel. It's almost like the bushing has to hold some weight and pushes out after the bushing wears out. Mine have been on for about 1k and looked perfect but i want them to hopefully last so that's why i tried the larger washers, for $5 it's worth a shot
So I just got to the rears today to see if the bigger washers would help, no way in hell will it. The sway bar is almost yanking down on the bushing in the sway bar link. No washer is gonna fix that issue. On the fronts there is a chance, the rears hell no! What a bad design, I think they would work if the hoop was angled down more so it didn't pull the bushing down. It's almost as if they just welded it together and said those will be fine...
Well said and exactly what was done with everything who knows if the welds are even strong if they fail it's your life you really want something like that on your rig? I am spending the money to FEA test every single part we do on the suspension to guarantee nothing will fail on ya. Their is a difference and you get what you pay for wait until the Arms start to show up at peoples door steps.
Whats going to happen with a larger washer is the bushing will take a beating and fall apart until it's metal on metal just a matter of time is ^ the larger washer? you can see the bushing being squashes the whole geometry is wrong.
Would better bushings help, like from energy or another company? What size busbing wiuld we need from energy? When I had the fronts off I was looking at them and the bwoody bushings are soft idk if they are even neoprene I think they are just rubber. Some harder ones I'd think would help may not solve it but these are just terrible.
The sway bar should be placed back to OEM position. We have calculated this via Computer design and our links will place the Sway bar back to OEM position for lowered applications. We are also making the same length as the OEM links for those who what to keep ride hight OEM and just upgrade their links. With ^ said we will offer two different lengths for anyone's application.
Your picture above is the sway bar trying to be in the OEM position. Not only is it under stress from that but the swivel needs to be their a solid mount is not engineered to work properly on the Jeeps.