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2014 Rear Stop/Turn LED Bulbs

48K views 149 replies 38 participants last post by  botlfed98 
#1 ·
Has anyone installed LED bulbs for the stop/turn on a 2014 yet?

If so, maybe you can post up some photos or video?
 
#11 ·
Uhh yea, if you could go ahead and post a vid and pics of that, that would be great.
 
#4 ·
Can one of you 2014 owners do us a favor and remove one of the taillights and take a picture of the connections back there?

I am looking to see how the connections have changed and whether you would still be able to use one of Ken's resistor harnesses for the LED upgrade to the Turn/Brake circuit?
 
#5 ·
Bump, anyone do this yet? I'm still interested in replacing the rear brake lights and rear turn signal to match the rear LED driving lights.

Are they plug and play like the front fogs are? Can you just by the same bulb incandsent type in an LED format or do you have to rewire it completely for LED?
 
#6 ·
I would like to do this too. I hate having slow blinking tail lights on a brand new $50,000 luxury vehicle. Crazy that they didn't make everything LED. I might take one out and take a pic of it but I don't know anything about what would be required to make it work.
 
#8 ·
Sweet!!!! When you get these, If you could do a tutorial as how you change the bulbs etc.. that would be great!! Would help for guys like me who don't know what their doing. lol

I'm anxious to see how it turns out for you :D
 
#12 ·
I will probably be going with this kit:

VLEDS

The bulb size for our 14's Stop/Turn lamp is 3157 (according to the owners manual). I wish Chrysler would of just done all LED with the taillights :confused:
 
#13 ·
I will probably be going with this kit:

VLEDS

The bulb size for our 14's Stop/Turn lamp is 3157 (according to the owners manual). I wish Chrysler would of just done all LED with the taillights :confused:
I was originally going to go with VLEDS but man they are a bit expensive. I was able to get the bulbs and resistors from amazon for 37 bucks. Should be getting them today. Hoping to get them installed this evening.
 
#15 ·
Just an update. Got the rear led lights today. Took me about 30 minutes to get them installed. The ones I bought actually look brighter then the stock bulbs. It looks really good with the LED brake/turn lights, reverse led lights, and led fogs. I have pics for a write up on how I installed the rear brake/turn bulbs and what parts I used. I will post a write up tomorrow.
 
#19 ·
How to: Installing LED Brake/Turn Signal Lights


I used the following items from amazon to do my conversion:

  1. 50 W RESISTOR
    Amazon.com: Jtech 2x 50W 6 Ohm Load Resistors for LED Light Bulbs (Fix Hyper Flash, Error Messsage): Automotive
  2. 3157 Red LED BULB
    Amazon.com: Jtech 2x T25 3157. 7.5W High Power LED Red Signal Light Bulb: Automotive

You are going to need the following tools:

1. Flat head screwdriver
2. Pliers
3. Knife




Directions:

  1. Start by removing the light housing. To do this remove the two push pins on the inner side of the tailgate. You can use the screwdriver to pull them out as they have indents on the top. Once they have been removed, pull the taillight housing towards you so that it comes off. You might need to use a little force to get it to come off.

  2. Once you have the housing off, the brake/signal bulb is the one at the top. You want to twist it counterclockwise and remove the bulb. Once you have the bulb out, just grab your new LED bulb and put it in place. At this point what you want to do is make sure the light works, so you can use your remote and unlock/lock your doors to make sure the LED bulb flashes.



  3. Installing the resistors can be a little tricky since there really is not much room in the taillight area to hold the resistor and to keep it away from any plastic and wires as it get pretty hot when in use. I found out that you can pull the cables a little further out to give you more working room. And this will also let you move the cables more towards the front of the housing so you can put the resistor where the cables originally came in through.
  4. To attach the resistors you need to find the brake light cables. They are taped together, so you will need to cut them apart. And you don’t have to cut them apart all the way, just enough to attach the resistor. I but the cables apart as far down as I could and attached the resistor there.



  5. Once done, just position all wires and resistor in proper place and mount light back up. I used double sided tape to mount the resistor to the metal part of the truck. So far it has been holding good.

Once you have the light mounted just do the other side following the same steps above.

I have also done the reverse and front fog lamps LED. If you are doing the reverse LED’s I would suggest you do them together with the brake/turn lights so you don’t have to remove the taillight again. Please note reverse lights are plug and play, no resistor needed.

I used this one for the one under the brake/turn signal:
Car 7443 7440 T20 68 LED 5050 SMD Tail Brake Backup Light Lamp Bulbs : Amazon.com : Automotive

And this one for the one on the actual lift gate:
Amazon.com: Jtech 2 x T10/T15 7.5W High Power SMD LED Bulb Xenon White. Pair: Automotive

On the litigate one, you will need to remove the panel inside to get access to the lights. But it is just being held by clips, so it pulls right off. You get access to the light without needing to remove anything else.

I will get a video of the lights in action later today and post it.

Let me know if there are any questions.
 

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#20 · (Edited)
How to: Installing LED Brake/Turn Signal Lights

Let me know if there are any questions.
Awesome!! Thanks for the write up!! I am following all your links right now and purchasing the exact same things so that I can do this.

So I'm scared about the resistor part and cuttings wires, is it as hard/scary as it sounds? Or is it pretty simple to do (even for a noobie like me with no experience)?

Also what about the brake light on the top part of the lift gate above the window?
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks Warrior, you make me feel alot better about this project. The diagram for the resistor connection looks a little tricky/scary, but hopefully it will make much more sense once I see it in person.

I just purchased everything on Amazon and came out to $65.00 total shipped. Not to bad for both the LED brakes, resistor and reverse lights.

So this talk about the resistor locations being far from plastic, do they really get that hot where it could cause damage if not located far enough away from the housing? And you said you used doubleside tape to hold it, would the tape melt over time causing the resistor to fall off? Would you suggest anything else I should use as adhesive instead? Maybe zip tie it somewhere?

Again thanks for all your patience and responses! Also look forward to the video :D
 
#25 ·
That is awesome! That is about as much as I paid for my stuff as well. Once you see the resistors and how they need to be connected you will see it is not that bad.

The resistors do get pretty hot, but again I have not seen any damage done from people that have run them next to the housing. I used the double sided tape to see how it would hold up in regular driving conditions, but to be safe I am going to go to O'Rilleys on my way home this afternoon and buy some heat shield tape to put around the resistors and remove the double sided tape. That should alleviate any worry that they might get too hot. I would have zip tied it somewhere but that would require that i remove the back bumper to get them positioned in a good place and did not really want to go through all that but that is all up to you. I think the heat shield tape should be good enough for this as I doubt it will ever get hot enough to cause any damage.

And no worries man, I will answer any questions to the best I can.
 
#30 ·
Awesome! We are putting the finishing touches that jeep should have put on the trucks from the factory. Now what mine really needs is a wash. It has been raining every weekend and I have had not time. :motx:

You might be creating a pocket of warm air as heat rises. It might not be and issue and they might be able to handle the heat, but on hot summer days there might just be a ton of heat back there. Time will tell.

If that resistor fails, does the light stop or does is just start blinking fast?
The tape will be creating a barrier between the housing/wires and the resistor. But lets hope it causes no issues. With the truck moving, it should have a good air flow. Just doing the tape as a precaution. Im not necessarily too worried about it getting too hot.

If the resistor fails, the fast blinking will just start again. The resistor is not stopping the current from going to the light. But yeah, time will def tell.
 
#31 ·
Videos are below :D

I just checked all the connections and load resistors and all looks good. The load resistors are still attached to the double sided 3M tape I put them on, so I am not going to do the heat shield tape after all. I will check it in a couple of weeks, but looks good as of right now.
 
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#35 ·
Videos are below :D

I just checked all the connections and load resistors and all looks good. The load resistors are still attached to the double sided 3M tape I put them on, so I am not going to do the heat shield tape after all. I will check it in a couple of weeks, but looks good as of right now.
Videos look great. You're right that Chrysler should have completed the full LED look on the entire taillights. Bunch of cheapskates saving a few bucks per vehicle by keeping the incandescent bulbs for stop, turn and reverse lights. They should have just raised the base price of the WK2 by $50.00 and it would have easily covered the expense of the full LED rear lamp assembly.
 
#34 ·
I have a granite WK2. At night/low light it passes for black and in the sunshine it it a very dark gray and at times it has a brown hue to it. I've gotten alot of compliments on the color.
 
#40 ·
I am very much looking forward to seeing this! I may do this conversion if it works well.
 
#44 · (Edited)
Thanks for the videos looks great! I just got done installing my rear LED's over the weekend and it does look a ton better! I recorded a video of the LED vs Stock comparison but for some reason my phone is having issues uploading to YouTube.

Anyways, for being a nooby and doing this for the first time, I found it really wasn't that hard to do and the instructions you wrote up worked great!

Also I noticed, if you don't want to go through the extra work, the resistors are not necessarly needed. The rear signals actually flash normal without them.

The only thing that flashes rapidly is the turn signals on the side mirrors. So for that reason, I still installed the resistors so that everything sync'd up.

But if you don't mind the mirror signals flashing a little faster than the front and rears, then you don't really have to go through the hassel of installing the resistors.

Anyways, Love the mod! Glad I did it!
 
#46 ·
Glad to hear it all went good! Instructions can sometimes be a little more intimidating than when you are doing it.

When I installed the LED to test them i saw that they flashed at normal rate, but the dash indicator did a fast flashing and it would have driven me nuts.

But glad it all worked out with no issues.


The only thing I haven't gotten installed yet is the reverse light LED's. I couldn't get the panel off of the lift gate. How did you remove it?

I saw on the side there is two screws that just come right off, but after that is there anything else you have to unlatch?

When I took the screws off it still felt like it was latched on somewhere, at least it was stuck on there pretty good. Do you just have to pull really hard to get it off? I didn't want to pull to hard fearing I might break it.

Wanted to hear your response first before I tried forcing it off any further.

Thanks!
How you are describing it was exactly how I tried to take them off as well. But because I did not want to pull to hard and break anything either i did some research and what you need to do is remove the trim panel on the inside of the lift gate. It is just being held by clips. So if you pull on the trim panel it will come right off and give you access to the lights. Just be careful because the courtesy lights are attached to the trim panel so you might want to remove those and then plug them back in when done with the reverse lights.

Look at this link:

http://www.jeepgarage.org/f176/2014...-replace-headlamp-fog-56940-3.html#post801091

They have a picture on how to remove the lift gate trim panel.
 
#49 · (Edited)
I got my V3 Triton LED system and i was going to wait until my back up led's arrived but that won't be until Saturday, so i figured i would go ahead and install the Stop/turn LED's. I have nowhere to mount the control box! I figured for sure there was going to be somewhere i could mount it but the only place would be a small opening where the current wires are coming up from the bottom. That would mean the wires would come through the opening and the control box would have to be mounted under the opening. Problem is how do i get the control box down there :confused: It doesn't seem i can reach from under the bumper all the way up to the tail light.

The kit looks high quality and hopefully i can install it...
 

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#53 ·
I got my V3 Triton LED system and i was going to wait until my back up led's arrived but that won't be until Saturday, so i figured i would go ahead and install the Stop/turn LED's. I have nowhere to mount the control box! I figured for sure there was going to be somewhere i could mount it but the only place would be a small opening where the current wires are coming up from the bottom. That would mean the wires would come through the opening and the control box would have to be mounted under the opening. Problem is how do i get the control box down there :confused: It doesn't seem i can reach from under the bumper all the way up to the tail light.

The kit looks high quality and hopefully i can install it...
Wow those Triton LED's do look really nice! But like you said, there is practically no where to put the control box. As warrior mentioned, I had a hard enough time trying to find a place to put the small resistor that would allow me to get the housing back on.

But if you can figure out a way to get those bad boys installed, I'm sure it will be worth all the effort, very high quality looking.
 
#50 ·
The kit does look really nice and all. But from what I saw on the taillight assembly, the only way you will be able to get them installed is to remove the rear bumper and mount the control box. I was barely able to make the resistor fit in that opening, but once you have them mounted they should look really nice I bet. Keep us updated as to what you do.
 
#51 ·
I was afraid that removing the bumper would be the only way. If i knew that i wouldn't have ordered them. It seems that removing the rear bumper is a PITA from some posts ive seen for the previous WK2's. I'm sure its the same for the 14's. I have 30 days to return them...i'll keep you guys posted.
 
#55 ·
You'll need 4 bulbs total for the reverse lights. 2 that go into the same housing as the brake lights, and the other 2 for the lift gate reverse light.

They are different bulbs as well, which warrior posted links to earlier in the thread. Here they are:

I used this one for the one under the brake/turn signal:
Car 7443 7440 T20 68 LED 5050 SMD Tail Brake Backup Light Lamp Bulbs : Amazon.com : Automotive

And this one for the one on the actual lift gate:
Amazon.com: Jtech 2 x T10/T15 7.5W High Power SMD LED Bulb Xenon White. Pair: Automotive

 
#57 ·
Thank you Road Warrior for pointing me in the right direction to purchase the LEDs, I finally had all the parts to finish this install last night and I went on slightly different when it came to place the resistor.

The same location where you placed your I was able to see where the hole dropped into and it actually dropped right behind the bumper to the ground, I thought that maybe there would be some sort of a block or weird turns in there but it just drop straight down to the ground.

So I snaked a cable protector in there like so:


And then snaked a piece of wire through it, here it is at the bottom behind the rear bumper:


I ran the plastic protector through the frame and came out just above the exhaust, then I wire tied the resistor to the frame:


I figured it can get as hot as it wants down there, I also placed quick connectors on the line that way if the resistor dies I can quickly replace with another.

Thanks again for turning me on to this setup, only one complaint I have is one of the brake lights arrived dead, but I am getting a replacement.
 
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