So, I finally got around to doing the install of the XenonDepot HID kit for the 2014 JGC. I got the H11 kit with the low-beam HID's, fogs, and interior LED's. Both the headlights and fogs are 5000k
I won't go over the entire installation, because I was running out of time and didn't have the time to stop and take pictures and do a step-by-step. The install took about 3 hours total. The most difficult part was trying to figure out what to plug into what with all those wires...
Once I had the one side done, the other was a lot faster!
To get the bumper off, I used this video to help:
There's been some people that are apparently saying it's possible to do this kit on a 11-13' without the bumper removal, that is NOT the case for the 14's in my experience, there is just NO way that can be done. That said, the bumper removal was actually pretty easy.
Note* Some people are reporting that you need to buy a rivet-gun to re-assemble the bumper, this is NOT true! The rivets on the fender liner have a small hole in the center, if you use a small punch, it will "knock" the screw loose, and you'll be able to remove it. I was able to re-use mine, but YMMV.
After you get the bumper removed, you need to remove the low-beam bulb. I HIGHLY suggest leaving the headlight housing where it is. I removed mine, and during the re-install, the housing slightly shifted, causing the bumper to hang up and not go on...ended up taking a slight chip out of the bumper!
Next is to start the wiring, hook up all the connections and you should have a positive and ground. I had a problem with this...as I thought this kit was "plug and play," which it isn't. This issue is two-fold. First, unless I'm missing something, the positive and negative (ground) did NOT fit on anything, so I had to splice a larger connector on the end so it would fit around the positive terminal (screw). The ground on the passenger side fit just fine.
The second issue I ran into was that you need to drill out the headlight cover, as the factory bulb is covered by the plastic twist-cap. To properly waterproof the bulb and housing, you need to drill a 1 1/8" hole in the center of the cap. This isn't difficult, just a step I had no idea about before hand...
I would also HIGHLY suggest starting on the passenger side, as you'll have much more room to work with, the ground is right there, and the positive terminal. The driver side is a bit more tricky, there's less space, and I couldn't find a positive or ground to save my life. I eventually ended up grounding it on the front of the frame near the radiator, and ran the positive over to the terminal, again, having to splice a new, larger end-connector.
Below are some pictures of where I mounted the ballast, wires, etc. I used 3M heavy duty double sided tape and zip-ties. I wanted everything to be removable, for obvious reasons. Overall, I'm very happy with the product, the light output is SO much better than the factory halogens. Brighter, more light, the flood is much better, and I have yet to get flashed by oncoming drivers. Overall I would recommend this product, just be able to devote a few hours for the install and the possibility of having your vehicle down due to the removal of the bumper.
Zip-tied wires on the passenger side, you can also see the top of the ballast where I mounted it to the frame:
Wires tucked next to the air filter housing and I zip-tied the Canbus to the washer-fluid cap so that I could remove it if needed, and to prevent it from rattling:
Relay mounted to the frame, with the driver-side positive being ran under the frame rail and zip-tied in place, leading to the positive terminal. Also note the screw on the left, that's where I ground the driver-side. I mounted the driver-side ballast on the radiator below the relay:
Both positives mounted to the terminal in the fuse box. Note the larger connectors I had to use to go over the screw:
Very even cut off:
I apologize for the parking and road pics, they were a bit difficult to get, ha.
I hope this helps someone!