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Clear Bra info

15K views 33 replies 18 participants last post by  slampert 
#1 ·
Hey all,

I'm on the fence as to whether or not to add a clear bra to my truck. I'm primarilly a city dweller, but do get out to the desert fairly often where wind gusts can come out of nowhere and really sandblast the car.:eek:

Please share your wisdom. Which brand of film did you use (or are you considering) ? Was it professionally installed or a DIY job ? Did you purchase a pre-cut kit ? How extensive is the coverage on your truck, how does it look, and most importantly does it do the job ??

What do these films look like in 5 yrs ?? I have this image I can't shake of the clear bra looking like failed window tint and wrecking the look of the truck......

Thanks for your input and recommendations !!

Steve
 
#2 ·
i can snap a picture of my other car that has 3M film for last 5 years, which guaranteed not to turn yellow and if you decide to remove it, no glue resedue.
in my opinion it more of the impact area from chipping/bugs/etc.
not really sure how beneficial it would be against winds, say blowing from the side...
my jeep got 3Mc lear bra
 
#3 ·
Who sells this?
 
#4 · (Edited)
A good, local tint dealership should carry 3M film. And if they do, they should be able to install the clear paint protection on the bumper or anywhere.

I had it done on my Range Rover and G35 previously and niether peeled or turned yellow. When we bought my wife's R350 last June we had the wndows tinted and the bra installed immediately. Her commute is 45-miles on I-95 so a lot of potential for stones. It cost $695 for the full, 2-ft kit (the bra extends 2-ft up the hood). The "half" kit is like 8-10" up the hood and was like $495.

It will get done on my Jeep soon, just wasn't a necessity as I drive much less distance, in lower traffic and at much lower speeds.

I also had the door handle inserts paint protected on my wifes R350 and my Jeep. That area always ends up scratched from finger nails or rings, cost like $20 when they were doing the rest of the work.

I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself, unless you are highly skilled. Applying tint to windows is one thing because they are more or less flat. Anything with a curve proves to be difficult as I found out when tinting my tail-lights - and the front of the Wk2 is not flat.

Regarding my tails lights, personally, I think I did a decent job for a first time try but am not happy. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot. And, the company is refunding my purchase less the $5 S&H because I wasn't happy so it really cost me $5 to try it. As a result in a few weeks I will be sending them out to Jon's Tinted Tails for a professional spray tint. My local tint place wanted $135 to tint the tails with film. Jon wasn't much more and will tint the 3rd brakelight and bumper reflectors - I just have to go without my tailights for a few days :( but it will be worth it :)

Again, if you are highly skilled give it a shot, just make sure you get the application kit and do it in warm weather (75-deg or higher) with low humidty.
 
#5 ·
I had a 12" 3M bra and the two front windows tinted for $225 here in Denver at a place called Dent Works. I believe they have other locations throughout the US.

I took my Range Rover Sport in there as well to get dings removed at $25 per ding. They do amazing work, and you can't beat the price.
 
#33 ·
I had a 12" 3M bra and the two front windows tinted for $225 here in Denver at a place called Dent Works. I believe they have other locations throughout the US.

I took my Range Rover Sport in there as well to get dings removed at $25 per ding. They do amazing work, and you can't beat the price.
Was the 12" bra just applied to the hood, or did the bra include the front bumper and fenders? If that includes the bumper, that is a great bargain!!!
 
#6 ·
My suggestion is to look for a car that has a color similar to yours with the clear film on it, and decide if you like it or not. It's almost invisible (when installed properly) on some colors, but quite noticeable on other colors. Most will also yellow after a time due to uv. If you do decide to go for it, get it installed by a pro and find out how many pieces the kit will have; the fewer pieces the better as there are less seams to see.

I'm not berating it at all, as I have had it on several of my cars but find that it really is personal choice.
 
#8 ·
Steve, I know its matter of prefrence but I have a friend who installs it and is advising me not to do it. I called a guy in Nassau and wanted over a thousand to do it. My friend said even the best you will see slight cut lines if you ever peel it off and depending on color it may not come out that great. Like I said not bashing anyone all a matter of preference. For the cost of what it is I can repaint the front end twice over 10 years so Im going Braless....lol
 
#9 ·
cmmurry77... wow, what a deal!

BimmerAgent... did you do it yourself? If so, how easy was it?

scittb... never thought of it like that.

slampert, wjs81866, anyone else... if you want I will take some pics of the clear bra on the R350. You can see some of the mate/cut lines but only if you look very closely. Most people are amazed that anything is there.

The tint shop indicated the R350 as a '4' on the 1-5 difficulty scale (5 being highest). This was the number the 3M paint protection/clear bra software generated for them (that is how they determine the price... amount of material and the difficulty level). I asked to see the software to verify, they allowed me. I checked it out again when I got my Wk2's windows done and the software said the Wk2 would be a '3' on the scale so it would be a bit cheaper.

Again, all a preference. In my experience, such as when I had my G35-coupe and lived in downtown Baltimore City where I my only parking option was on-street, parrallel parking, the added protection on my front & rear bumpers from the other dummies parallel parking was definitely worth it.
 
#10 ·
I will not go without the 3m clear bra on any vehicle. It really is not an option in the mountain west, otherwise the front end gets pitted from sand and gravel. We replace windshields every 3-5 years from pitting.

IMO, this is one where you should pay the man to do it correctly to get a clean install. It's barely noticeable, and will likely only be to you up close.
 
#17 ·
I will not go without the 3m clear bra on any vehicle. It really is not an option in the mountain west, otherwise the front end gets pitted from sand and gravel. We replace windshields every 3-5 years from pitting.

IMO, this is one where you should pay the man to do it correctly to get a clean install. It's barely noticeable, and will likely only be to you up close.
man, ever since i moved to CO 10+ years i average 3 windshields a year ( different cars). similar goes for fog lights, so i run "head light armor"
So if i would drive just one car it would be perhaphs 3 windshields in 2 years/per car... I am just south of Parker and gravel roads are not kind!


as far as clear bra, when i had a truck cut corner and cracked my bumper on a car with a clear bra insurace actually paid for new bumper cover, paint AND CLEAR BRA RE-APLICATION!

if you travel on unpaved roads you must have a leather bra or clear 3M film... repainting once a year would cost you more!
 
#11 ·
What Moose said above^. On brilliant black the line is nearly invisible from as close as 3 feet away. As always, a matter of personal preference but if you weigh the chips against the very slight line, I'll take the line any day. I hate seeing the paint chips and if nothing else it helps with resale to some buyers.
 
#13 ·
Yeah - here in Phoenix (where fireron and I live) we have a lot of gravel used in landscaping and so a lot of trucks trucking it around. Many of them spill a bit on the highways and it's just a matter of time before you get a stone shot at your front end or windshield.

I'm gonna hook up with fireron shortly and see how his install looks - If I like it, I'll do the same thing (and use the same installer - why take chances?)
 
#12 ·
Getting mine put on tomorrow.

Follow this link; http://www.xpel.com/products/paint_...pe=1&year=2011&make=20&model=348&submodel=884


It is Xpel's self install pre-cut kits to give you an idea of price and design. Most shops use XPel or some other type of software which laser cuts the material and they install. My install is the price of the self install kit for the bumper, hood (bikini cut) fenders and mirrors plus in addition Im getting my 2 front windows tinted and headlights protected.

Nanofusion paint protection film, nearly invisible on black.


To get an idea; Full coverage- http://yfrog.com/h2gb4ffj

Heres a video to a paint protection install on an M6; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5uvuDlvC9I&feature=youtu.be&a
 
#15 ·
Has anyone done their own with the pre-cut DIY kits???
Anyone done the head lights, edge or bumper guards too?

3 brands have been mentioned: Lamin-X, NanoFusion, and Xpel.
Any of these the prime choice. I looked at Nanofustion link and didn't see a way to purchase a pre-cut kit.

DIY doesn't appear to have a cost savings... if anything, very minor but I still enjoy trying or doing it myself. I may be totally off track, but the few videos don't make it appear very difficult.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Depends. Go look closely at your headlamp covers. Feel across the top edge where it dips down into a small valley and then the wrap-around edge along the perimeter all the while keeping it aligned, properly heated and squeeged to help smooth it out. I will be doing my headlights and fogs this weekend (after I already chickened out at the installers due to reports of spider cracking of headlamp covers ie late model Corvettes). I did my Commander's headlamps and fogs. They were on for over three years and still looked like new so I'll risk it again but will not be putting stronger (read hotter/stronger) lamps in. That project is a far cry from doing the hood, fenders and bumper. However, there sure is the satisfaction of a project where you performed the work yourself. Good luck!
 
#18 ·
The NanoFusion is shop only.....they are not precut, the installer cuts the film and stretches and places it. It's a custom job, and can take a few hours depending on what you have done. I thought about buying a kit and doing it myself, but I wanted the Nano, so I couldn't. After watching the installer, though, I think I could do a precut kit. I have 3M on my Bimmer, and the Nano is more "invisible" to me. Bruce
 
#19 ·
On films, Xpel has a "Premier" film line which is mounted on clear plastic instead of paper. It costs about 30% more for the film but does have a more even surface appearance than the paper back mounted standard Xpel. The paper backing is what gives PPF's a slight "orange peel", if I can call it that, effect. You pays yer money and get what looks best to you. To me, the standard looks good and is nearly invisible but you can see the difference in the more expensive product.
 
#20 ·
Thank you all for the wealth of info and opinions shared in this thread !!

One thing that seems clear, is that many of you routinely face far more hostile road and environmental conditions in a day, than I might see in a month.

I'm going to see an installer (who has a plotter) about modifying a kit which would cover the leading edge of the hood and the vertical surfaces of the front bumper.

Eliminating some of the compound curves should improve the odds of a successful DIY installation.

If this is not feasible I will probably take my chances and skip the entire process all together !!

If we are able to come up with a modified kit, I'll let you know all details !

Steve
 
#21 ·
Install of nanofusion was a success. Its made by Avery. Highly recommended. Its invisible from a distance, and invisible when up close aside from the line up close where it ends, however there is no difference in paint gloss/shine etc where the nanofusion is, and where it isn't. Its one of, if not the best out there at the moment. He said there is something even better, its SELF HEALING! But he said its costs an arm and a leg to buy since its so new... Didn't even mention how much. Got my fronts factory matched and I should have done it months ago.
 
#26 ·
Yes you are correct.
 
#25 ·
For the folks with a clear bra installed, how does it hold up to waxing. I plan on claying and waxing my Jeep probably once a year so I am concerned with clear bras not holding up.

Also do you think the wax would build up on the edge?
 
#34 ·
For the folks with a clear bra installed, how does it hold up to waxing. I plan on claying and waxing my Jeep probably once a year so I am concerned with clear bras not holding up.

Also do you think the wax would build up on the edge?
FWIW, I ended up getting 3M Ventureshield applied to my front bumper. This is reputed to be the easiest film to install, and, believe it or not, I could not find a local installer willing to use the Nano Fusion film ! Hmmmm.

Although I originally intended to install the film myself, when I arrived at the trim shop to pick up my bumper kit, I took a look at the size of the kit--and chickened out --and had the shop do the installation. That turned out to be a good move as their installation was flawless....

The shop recommended maintaining the film with Eagle One Nanowax Spray. I've been doing that, and the film is absolutely invisible over a Mineral Grey finish.

Steve
 
#27 ·
For anyone with a clear bra already installed, Today I noticed a small imperfection where its white in nature because its not fully adhered to the car (dime/nickel size). I can't tell if its due to dust/particulates under the material or the material itself although you can feel it with your finger.

Did any of you see imperfections that after a few days of warm weather went away or does that only apply to "bubbles."
 
#28 · (Edited)
Most times water is underneath just as there is some water under window film of course. When you mix alcohol and water to apply the film, the mixture has foam-like bubbles and will dry up with time. However.... I don't think I have ever seen the sizes you mentioned. Milky white sometimes but in areas, not round dimensions. Those sizes would almost make me believe you need to return it to the installer and have them use a hypodermic needle to remove that size of bubble, if that is the problem.

If there is an installer error, then that of course is a different matter and most likely would require a new install. The film you used I think is fairly new even to Avery. I looked at an installers site that liked it because it was thinner and easier for them to install. But the thinner film gets, it might likely scar easier when heating and stretching due to its being thinner. I just installed Xpel headlight protectors (because it is a kit and have had good luck in the past with them) this last weekend and it is 30 mil thick and you can heat and stretch the heck out of it with worrying about damage (or at least worry as much). Good luck.
 
#29 ·
Thanks for all the info fireron. Thus your clear bra has no imperfections, not even any small dots like the size of a grain of something underneath. Those aren't really my concern it's more the small dime size area I'll have to snap a picture. Haven't had time to run to te installer yet it's a 45 min drive.
 
#30 ·
All film has some small imperfections from install, all I have ever seen anyway just some installs are better than others. Thickness helps but can't overcome too much heat or stretch. Some small stretchmarks (grain size) almost always occur but yours seem pretty large and no I don't have anything near what you are describing. The headlight covers don't have anything that wasn't there before, clear as can be. But, doing a vehicle in that you would see a heavy line at the ending point or like near the rear wheel wheel well opening, only worse.
 
#31 ·
was just quoted $778 for bumper and hood...

what if i just wait till i have some chips and dings then just lower my deductible and "accidently" have a teeny tiny fender bender....
:p

other option is if i let it get all dinged up, i guess i'll HAVE to buy the 2012 SRT8 hood and bumper...
 
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