Originally Posted by GCLimited
So here are some pictures of Ionic running boards I installed on my 2014 Overland. Job took about 3 hours, an hour of which I experimented using stainless steel washers to raise the rear of the running boards up a little for a more raked look. Overall I like them ($329 w/free shipping), but a small piece of me wishes I bought the over-priced Mopar chrome step rails instead.
I did not have any big issues with the install (threading the large nut for each of the 6 brackets was the hardest part), the directions are OK, and I did not require any help. As for cons, the running boards were wider than I thought they'd be...an inch thinner would've been nice, I wish ALL of the fasteners were zinc coated, and I'm not a huge fan of the brackets design...wish they did not hang down as far as they do.
So I installed these this past weekend. Tips and advice from this thread definitely helped me out, so I feel obligated to post about my experience and modifications (I recommend following all the tips on here, I won't post about them specifically). I had myself and my dad working on this (because he has all the tools) and it took longer than expected. After a trip to the hardware store (explained below), it took about 6 hours of time. I will post pics when I can this weekend.
Installed on a 2014 Overland, V6. I raised the suspension to Off Road 2 and this allowed plenty of room to work with underneath without having to put the vehicle on a jack.
Once I got the brackets and boards on and tightened, it was noticeable that the rear of the running board was sagging significantly from the body trim. I measured about one-half inch. There was a noticeable gap between the rubber and the body; large enough where you could see the bracket. My solution (via the hardware store) turned out to be some nylon spacers between the bracket and the running board. On the rear bracket, I used two 1/4" spacers (total the 1/2" gap I measured initially), and on the middle bracket I used one 1/4" spacer (pictures of this to follow). I had to buy new and longer flathead screws (stainless) to account for the extra length the spacers created that would fit in the running board track. Well, the ones I bought obviously didn't fit in the track, so we used a grinder to grind the heads to fit. I think this part turned out really well and was visually pleased with the result.
As for the hardware not being stainless, I would agree. Obvious difference in material from the stainless I bought at the hardware store and what was provided in the box. My solution, and we'll see how it holds up as I have never used it before, was 4 coats of clear plastidip at all hardware locations.
Overall, I am happy with them so far. I like the look of the vehicle without them more, but I remind myself I bought them for functionality. I do think they look better than the tubular chrome steps.
Again, thanks to those who had posted previously about your experience.