Thanks for checking! After I posted, I looked around a bit more and found some pictures where a guy installed them with the rubber strip under the body, rather than overlapping. I went ahead and ordered them so I will look at it both ways once they arrive. I'm thinking either way will look sharp.
I purchased them from Runningboadworld.com and they were cool. Id just call and ask them about the fit for and Overland. Also, let them know about this thread and ask for a discount.....
Re: Ionic CXV Running Boards on a 2014 - Please read
All Ionic CXV installers - Just an FYI - had my Jeep in for a oil change and the tech informed me that all the bolts/nuts/brackets etc... are rotten away to nothing. 4 Bolts that hold the boards to the bracket had already gave way from the rot and the rest were on their way. I have had them installed for about 7 months and am in the NE so I am sure the winter took its toll but still not to the point that the bolts are giving way. I may end up removing them this weekend for safety reasons and the kids.
Wow, that's disappointing. I had an issue with my driver's side board and the step pad. I contacted Auto Customs, sent them a few pics and they sent out a replacement within a couple of days. Might be worth contacting them to find out if they will send out a new set of brackets and bolts that you can appropriately treat or paint before reinstalling.
So here are some pictures of Ionic running boards I installed on my 2014 Overland. Job took about 3 hours, an hour of which I experimented using stainless steel washers to raise the rear of the running boards up a little for a more raked look. Overall I like them ($329 w/free shipping), but a small piece of me wishes I bought the over-priced Mopar chrome step rails instead.
I did not have any big issues with the install (threading the large nut for each of the 6 brackets was the hardest part), the directions are OK, and I did not require any help. As for cons, the running boards were wider than I thought they'd be...an inch thinner would've been nice, I wish ALL of the fasteners were zinc coated, and I'm not a huge fan of the brackets design...wish they did not hang down as far as they do.
So here are some pictures of Ionic running boards I installed on my 2014 Overland. Job took about 3 hours, an hour of which I experimented using stainless steel washers to raise the rear of the running boards up a little for a more raked look. Overall I like them ($329 w/free shipping), but a small piece of me wishes I bought the over-priced Mopar chrome step rails instead.
I did not have any big issues with the install (threading the large nut for each of the 6 brackets was the hardest part), the directions are OK, and I did not require any help. As for cons, the running boards were wider than I thought they'd be...an inch thinner would've been nice, I wish ALL of the fasteners were zinc coated, and I'm not a huge fan of the brackets design...wish they did not hang down as far as they do.
So I installed these this past weekend. Tips and advice from this thread definitely helped me out, so I feel obligated to post about my experience and modifications (I recommend following all the tips on here, I won't post about them specifically). I had myself and my dad working on this (because he has all the tools) and it took longer than expected. After a trip to the hardware store (explained below), it took about 6 hours of time. I will post pics when I can this weekend.
Installed on a 2014 Overland, V6. I raised the suspension to Off Road 2 and this allowed plenty of room to work with underneath without having to put the vehicle on a jack.
Once I got the brackets and boards on and tightened, it was noticeable that the rear of the running board was sagging significantly from the body trim. I measured about one-half inch. There was a noticeable gap between the rubber and the body; large enough where you could see the bracket. My solution (via the hardware store) turned out to be some nylon spacers between the bracket and the running board. On the rear bracket, I used two 1/4" spacers (total the 1/2" gap I measured initially), and on the middle bracket I used one 1/4" spacer (pictures of this to follow). I had to buy new and longer flathead screws (stainless) to account for the extra length the spacers created that would fit in the running board track. Well, the ones I bought obviously didn't fit in the track, so we used a grinder to grind the heads to fit. I think this part turned out really well and was visually pleased with the result.
As for the hardware not being stainless, I would agree. Obvious difference in material from the stainless I bought at the hardware store and what was provided in the box. My solution, and we'll see how it holds up as I have never used it before, was 4 coats of clear plastidip at all hardware locations.
Overall, I am happy with them so far. I like the look of the vehicle without them more, but I remind myself I bought them for functionality. I do think they look better than the tubular chrome steps.
Again, thanks to those who had posted previously about your experience.
On my wife's, the driver side board looked good, but the passenger one sloped down too much in the rear. I readjusted it last night, but couldn't get it just right so I ended up adding a couple of washers and think it looks good now.
Regarding the questions of fitment on an Overland, they did fit, but I had to pull back the plastic body trim (where it wraps underneath the vehicle) a bit to get the socket over the 18mm bolt.
Regarding the questions of fitment on an Overland, they did fit, but I had to pull back the plastic body trim (where it wraps underneath the vehicle) a bit to get the socket over the 18mm bolt.
After less than a week with these Ionic running boards installed, I've decided to remove them and sell them. I'm going to go with the Mopar chrome step rails instead...I like the look of them better.
So if anyone is interested in buying this set of running boards from me for a big discount before I officially list them in the Sellers section, just drop me a PM. They are still like new...and I still have the original box, packaging, hardware, and instructions.
I took them off my Summit as well - for one the bolts and brackets all rusted and 2. looking at them from the front / rear, they stuck out much wider than I would have liked. Not sure what I'll do at this point
For what it's worth I was able to get AutoCustoms to price match Amazon's 3rd party sellers price of $232.83 shipped/tax included. The Ionic CXV is also known as the APS Deluxe Running Boards.
So they did in fact bolt up to the summit with no problem? website says they don't fit the summit model because of the chrome trim at the bottom. This would be awesome if I'm reading your post correct. Thanks.
I just installed a set on my 2014 Summit. They bolt up perfectly fine. I will say, that it was easiest to install all 3 brackets hanging very loose, attach the running board to the brackets loosely, and then tighten up the brackets, followed by the running board bolts to the brackets themselves. This allows you to install everything without stressing the plastic rocker trim. I will say that I love the look and the function is fantastic. Personally, I can't stand the tubes as it just looks too utility for me. I am very happy with the Ionic CXV's on my Summit.
does anyone know if the rubber at the top of the ionic cxv running boards can be removed. Not sure what purpose it serves. I want to install these on my summit but noticed in the pic above that the rubber doesn't fit tight to body. Thanks for any help.
Just loosen your boards and push them a little closer to the jeep and they will flush up. They are there to keep the look nice and clean with no gap between the Jeep and board...
Yeah I think that is so for all models but summit. Summit fits super tight with no adjusting. That's why I'm wondering if the rubber can be removed from the boards. Love the boards minus the rubber.
Rubber slides off easy. I did it to reduce the length with a razor and straight edge as mine were longer than the board. And they went right back on. You should be fine. I don't think the rubber looks bad though.
First two photos are of the gap at the rear of the board. First one has the light behind it, so easier to see. Second is with no light but gap still visible.
Third is the two 1/4" spacers to raise the rear of the board 1/2".
Fourth is the middle bracket with one 1/4" spacer.
Hello all! Haven't ordered these yet but they are my 1st choice so far. Going on my wifes 14 limited 4x4 Ecodiesel. The car is black and we have black wheels in the garage waiting for a chance to get them installed. She's obviously going for the blacked out look. I know a few here don't care for the shiny stuff. I don't mind it except in this case we're looking for a specific look.
My question is: Has any on looked at powdercoating the stainless trim piece black? That's the only issue i have with these running boards as far as appearance goes. Looking at the install video I can see that the trim piece appears to have 2 bolts at each end and about 5 pop rivets that hold it on. Can someone who has had hands on verify this? I'm not afraid to be the first to tear into them, just wondering if anyone else had similar ideas? Thanks for all the info!
I just posted a pic in the "New running boards" thread of the black step material on my Ionic CXVs separating at the seams where the boards taper at the ends. All 4 seams are doing it 1/4" or less. It would not let me post the pic here again. The boards have been on since last summer....6 months or maybe a little more.
I would say they stick out a little bit beyond the tires just by looking at it. Here are a couple of photos, apologies for the low light, but I think you can tell. One is from the front, the other kind of standing over it looking down at the board and rear tire.
Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage
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