Does not apply to vehicles that come with Luxury package II (HID version).
All bulbs can be access from front fender wheel cap. Air box need to come off from driver side in order to reach the high beam. No need to cut dust cover on low beam housing, but need some patient to stuff the large decoder inside the dust cover.
Does not apply to vehicles that come with Luxury package II (HID version).
All bulbs can be access from front fender wheel cap. Air box need to come off from driver side in order to reach the high beam. No need to cut dust cover on low beam housing, but need some patient to stuff the large decoder inside the dust cover.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...eciated!
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1) Honestly I don't know if the fan and decoder gonna melt my housing or not. Based on what I've see, a guy uses his thermal cam tested the fan fin and decoder can reach as high as 85C (185F), if you check out the Amazon review part, there are 2 pics that users uploaded. I am not worried about the fan fin as that part is not touching any plastic, but the decoder you stuffed in behind the dust cap could potentially heat some part up. Cross my finger and hope the housing can stand hold heat w/o melting.
2) It is quite a headache to have the lowbeam secured in place. Take your time and feel it with your hands. IMPORTANT: unscrew the little metal cap from the LED once you got it, that would make it shorter. I've never would've done it w/o unscrewing that cap and to clear out some space. But as you said if you are gonna install High beam and fog only then the job is much easier, take the air box off and it right there for your. I make 9005 high beam LED chip facing left-right instead of up-down and that's how my highbeam pattern looks like in the video, you could try other orientation but I think this is the right way to do. Good luck.
3) last, turn your wheel all the way to one side to clear out some space.
They have decoder on the wire, just no brain plug and play. The decoder converts DC to AC, meaning you don't even need to worry about polarity, either way would work.
Please note that 2015+ WK2 have headlight flickering issue, a lot of owners including me noticed this at night, it's very quick flickering that people don't even notice most of the time. FCA haven't had any solution to this issue. Shame on them. Upgrading to LED headlight will make this flickering issue more obvious to your eyes, coz LED is instant ON and OFF. Just to give your a headup.
I have a 16 Grand Cherokee with the 75th anniversary package with the halogen headlights. However my headlights are the ones with the indent. I'm willing to be a guinea pig if the amazon LED bulbs are 100% plug and play without additional harnesses needed.
On the same boat. Had bad experience with HID's that i'm considering LED's. Have LED's in my fogs and have not had any issues. Been about 2-3 months now.
You can find the bulb listings for various lighting applications in a Vehicle Lighting Guide like ours, and then dig deeper from that point.
Keep in mind that LEDs are going to draw less power than stock bulbs, so you will need some sort of solution for power issues/flickering/error codes if you are switching the headlights. You want a 'CANBUS Fix' (PWM anti-flicker module, error canceller, etc - everybody calls them different names) of some sort. Sometimes this is a module on its own, sometimes you need to use a Relay Harness (to take care of power problems) and Resistor (to get rid of error codes), depending on how finicky your vehicle is.
You will also need Electrical Load Resistors for Turn Signals or other smaller lights if your vehicle can throw an error code for them.
On the same boat. Had bad experience with HID's that i'm considering LED's. Have LED's in my fogs and have not had any issues. Been about 2-3 months now.