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  #13  
Old 01-19-2014, 03:14 PM
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Really surprising that they're not really rough riding.

Usually with the JKs the higher the load rating the lower the pressure.

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  #14  
Old 01-19-2014, 11:57 PM
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This might be a silly question, but why 41lbs if 36 is optimal? I'm running 34 on my 18s (duelers)
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2014, 02:44 PM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

Chunderboy - When the new tires and sensors were installed last week they said they put 40psi in them to start. After I drove less than 2 miles the all the sensors were reporting in, but there was a difference of 2-3 lbs on each corner. So the next morning I checked them cold, temp was about 45degs. The PSI range was 36 to 39, brought them all up to 41. Basically just a random decision although I wanted to see what the ride was like. I then drove some freeway and city streets and the TPMS display read 43 on all four corners.

I've tended to run a little higher pressure on M/T tires on the street, particularly on the fronts. This seems to help slow down the cupping on the outside edges.

As for the "Hawk", I'll probably back them off to about 36 and see how they feel.
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  #16  
Old 01-20-2014, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by XJ97SPORT View Post
Chunderboy - When the new tires and sensors were installed last week they said they put 40psi in them to start. After I drove less than 2 miles the all the sensors were reporting in, but there was a difference of 2-3 lbs on each corner. So the next morning I checked them cold, temp was about 45degs. The PSI range was 36 to 39, brought them all up to 41. Basically just a random decision although I wanted to see what the ride was like. I then drove some freeway and city streets and the TPMS display read 43 on all four corners.

I've tended to run a little higher pressure on M/T tires on the street, particularly on the fronts. This seems to help slow down the cupping on the outside edges.

As for the "Hawk", I'll probably back them off to about 36 and see how they feel.
Werd. I have A/T on my rig so just wondering what u should have.. I was thinking 36. Sound is nominal and the ride isn't splashy or too hard
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  #17  
Old 02-24-2014, 06:59 PM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

I just put the 275/65/18s with pro comp 7036 rims and I am experiencing rubbing in the front. I was wondering it is because the pro comp rims are 18x9. I have seen others with these tires and no one has had much of a issue. Am i missing something?
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2014, 12:12 AM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

CT...

Just looked at the Pro Comp site for the "pro comp 7036" wheels. They say the 7036's are 18x9 with 5" of back spacing with 0mm of offset.

Stock 18X8 rims (the flat, wide 5 spoke type) like the ones I'm running, have ~6.75" of back spacing, so it looks like your rims do not have enough positive offset.

You didn't say where your tires are rubbing?
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  #19  
Old 02-25-2014, 02:04 AM
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They are rubbing in the front when I turn. I can't really make a wide turn without it hitting even with the highest setting. My question is if I put the silent armors on these new rims I should be ok or should I just put back my trailhawk stock rims with the duratracs?
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  #20  
Old 09-17-2015, 04:00 PM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

JEEP Tube Type Rock Rail Install

I had been wanting to put a set of the "tube-type" rails on my Trailhawk so I bit the bullet and ordered a set from my local dealer. Jeep should have installed the tube type rails on the Trailhawks from the get go!

Best advice if your going to install your own.

1) Buy a metric 6mm / 1.0 thread pitch plug tap (about $8.00) and a can of WD-40. Run the tap through the "nuts" that are welded to the rail that will bolt up against the pinch weld seam under the vehicle. The nuts will be full of powder coating and some weld splatter. Don't use the bolts in the kit to clean the threads.

2) Roll the Jeep up on some 2x10 boards, just that little bit of extra clearance helps.

3) Having a buddy help lift the new rail(s) into position helps but isn't necessary.

4) On the body pinch weld seam(s), 8 holes per side, elongate the holes about 1/16" on each one of the hole. You don't want to make the hole bigger in diameter, just want to remove a little material on the sides (horizontal).
I also took the time to apply some rust-oleum paint along the edges of the holes.

4) NOTE: The instructions say to first lift the rail up and loosely bolt it to the body pinch weld seam (under the vehicle).

DON'T do this because it will be a royal pain in the arse to get the rail up and over the 12 bolts that are up along the side of the body. These are the bolts you see when you open the doors.

This is where the "buddy" comes in handy. Instead, lift the rail up and position it over the 12 bolts (by the doors) and loosely attach the flange nuts. Next use a couple of jacks to raise the rail up to the body pinch weld seam.

Now you can check for hole alignment and make sure you can start all the bolts with just your fingers.

Then put the stifferner bar up to the pinch weld seam and start inserting the 8 bolts. Having elongated these holes on the pinch weld seam just makes this process sooooo much easier.

Once all the nuts and bolts are snug, including the flag bolts that come up from the bottom of the rail (3 per side) go back and torque everything to spec.

Done.

Pics to follow...

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  #21  
Old 10-03-2015, 03:38 PM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

After pulling off the stock Trailhawk rails I found there was a fair amount of fine sand/silt inside the rails, about 1/4" deep. The collection points are around the center two cross braces. There's a total of four cross braces per rail.

Sure glad I don't live in an area where they salt the roads in the winter.

Before I installed the new rails I drilled 1/8" drain hole next to the center braces, then painted the bare metal. While I was at it I also sanded down the areas on the brackets that hold the front and rear inner fender liners and gave them a good coat of paint.

These brackets are used on the GC's that have the plastic lower side body panels. When the "rock rails" are installed these are folded back and the paint pops off.

On the bottom of the "rails", both the stock one and the tube type, there are five openings, two 1-1/2" rectangles, one at each end (for the jack lift points), and three 1-1/4" holes (for the flag bolts used in mounting the rails to the body). To help eliminate the sand and silt getting up inside the rails I plan on cutting some thin aluminum sheet, drill a 1/4" drain hole and the just RTV them over these openings.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Stock Rail.jpg (408.8 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg Stock Rail2.jpg (470.8 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg Rail Drain.jpg (307.6 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg F Bracket.jpg (276.2 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg R Bracket.jpg (449.0 KB, 52 views)
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  #22  
Old 10-03-2015, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJ97SPORT View Post
After pulling off the stock Trailhawk rails I found there was a fair amount of fine sand/silt inside the rails, about 1/4" deep. The collection points are around the center two cross braces. There's a total of four cross braces per rail.

Sure glad I don't live in an area where they salt the roads in the winter.

Before I installed the new rails I drilled 1/8" drain hole next to the center braces, then painted the bare metal. While I was at it I also sanded down the areas on the brackets that hold the front and rear inner fender liners and gave them a good coat of paint.

These brackets are used on the GC's that have the plastic lower side body panels. When the "rock rails" are installed these are folded back and the paint pops off.

On the bottom of the "rails", both the stock one and the tube type, there are five openings, two 1-1/2" rectangles, one at each end (for the jack lift points), and three 1-1/4" holes (for the flag bolts used in mounting the rails to the body). To help eliminate the sand and silt getting up inside the rails I plan on cutting some thin aluminum sheet, drill a 1/4" drain hole and the just RTV them over these openings.
I wonder if the trail Hawks of the northeast will have rust problems bc of what you found... Maybe post a thread about that for the rest of the crew that aren't subscribed to this thread... Good find!
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  #23  
Old 10-03-2015, 09:14 PM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

Are you selling your Trailhawk rails?
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  #24  
Old 10-05-2015, 04:04 PM
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Re: My Trailhawk Mods...

Yes. Though about putting them on the daughter/son-in-law's '12 GC. But since they just sold it no need to hang on to them. Not enough room for three car seats for the two year old and the new twins in the GC.

Also have the front/rear JEEP rubber/slush floor mats available.
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