I am going to put up some pictures and possibly a video but let me tell you these bulbs are bright! They make the brake/turn signals look great in my 2015 Overland. I love the instant on and the look is what they should have been from the factory.
I got these bulbs from Steve at XenonDepot and he told me I would be happy with them and he was right!
I am going to put up some pictures and possibly a video but let me tell you these bulbs are bright! They make the brake/turn signals look great in my 2015 Overland. I love the instant on and the look is what they should have been from the factory.
I got these bulbs from Steve at XenonDepot and he told me I would be happy with them and he was right!
Just two bulbs or one pack, you will also need the resistors, one for each side. They also come two in one pack, and are branded Phillips. XenonDepot has a dropdown next to the bulb, select w/Canbus
They are really well built, I know XenonDepot will take care of you!
Got the Philips bulbs and CAN Bus error cancellers (resistors) from Xenon Depot, arrived quickly.
Everything is easy; just hook up the 2 wires of the resistor to the 2 wires going to the brake/turn signal bulb.
QUESTION: Where did you guys mount the resistor?
I can simply push it down between the plastic bumper and the vehicle but that wouldn't secure the resistor...
There is no room behind the taillight assembly...
Let me know, pictures?
^^^ I didnt go with these LED's as I have the plug and play VLED V3 system as seen in another thread, however I do have a great spot for you for the resistors.
As you already mentioned, put them down between the bumper and body of the car. Put a strip of good double sided tape on the back of the resistor and reach down and place it on a flat part of the body. You may have to unscrew the bolt that secures the bumper below the tail light using the torx bit and that will give you a bit more room to squeeze your hand down in there to push it against the surface.
To see it better maybe shine a light down there and you will see that nice clean painted flat surface which is a perfect spot to mount them. Sorry I cant provide pictures, but its pretty self explanatory once you can see in there.
Im not really sure as I have never tried those Philips bulbs. I have always been using the V3's as they were hands down the best plug and play bulbs I have ever seen. They are brilliant in every lighting condition. A lot of LED's would suffer during bright sunlight conditions which the V3's do not. I would actually love to compare but I dont really want to buy a pair of the Philips just to try them. If someone had one laying around and didnt mind it to be sent to me for a bit I would be willing to take high quality DSLR comparison shots.
The VLED systems use an external control module and the bulbs have a decent size heat sink. I would like to think because of this the Philips would not be able to achieve the brightness of the VLED systems, but again I have never seen the Philips in person. If the Philips bulbs can atleast come close to brightness and light dispersion in the housing as good as the V3's then that would be great considering they do not require any extra space to mount the control box. Because of the "lens" that the V3's use I would like to say that they can utilize the full housing reflector better.
Actually it is not, atleast on their latest Gen 2.5. They redesigned them and made the control module much smaller, but it does not have the resistor built in. They did this for multiple reasons. First is not everyone needed the resistor, second, they said because of the heat, the built in resistor of the Gen 2 versions may have shortened the life of the control module electronics.
So now the latest Gen 2.5 has a small control module box (about the size of a quarter in the shape of a square). They also have specific resistors for the Tritons that are 100% plug and play right into one of the empty plugs coming from the control box. Its a real nice setup and I am still 100% satisfied with them.
Timn99,
On the VLED gen 2.5 setup that I have, I mounted the square control box onto the actual headlight housing using double sided tape as seen in the picture below. Then the flat V3 resistor I mounted to the body behind the bumper to a flat painted surface using double sided tape.
Sorry for this being in the Philips LED thread, so if anyone has further questions regarding the VLED system, pleas respond in my other thread which is also at the top of the page.
I only considered the Philips LED's due to simple installation.
Philips is a great brand and somehow they claim those LED's to be the only ones "approved" for cars...They are 2W so not sure how bright, they look weird for sure.
I don't want it too bright either, should look OEM.
I'll do one side and then compare with regular bulb on the other side.
Took me only 15min per side.
Resistor install after removing that one bumper torx screw and pulling away the bumper cover a bit to slide in the resistor and pressing it against the flat vehicle body just below the taillight. Got some 3M automotive double sided tape.
Only had to rotate Philips bulb 180 degrees for polarity. As bright as OEM bulb but not brighter I'd say, fine with me.
Also had to press in the bulb till it clicked, initially it wasn't in far enough...
Great modification and ultimately very happy I didn't spend the money for the "taillightsolutions" LED modification...
Keeping OEM bulbs in the trunk just in case. Says the LED bulbs last 12 years but better have a backup plan in place...
Also, just an FYI for those of you who just want to try them without screwing around with the resistor. This was stated in my VLED V3 Triton thread, but I don't think this one. Whats cool about the '14+ WK2 (not sure about '11-'13), it wont actually hyper flash the exterior bulbs. It will however give you a bulb out message at each startup, and will hyper flash the dash indicator ONLY. So if you plug in these bulbs without a resistor the exterior bulbs will flash NORMALLY. I ran mine like this for a while since the V3 resistors were back ordered longer than the bulb kit.
Here we go. One Philips bulb doesn't work anymore only after ~ 2 weeks. It's glowing red but doesn't light up, just a faint red glow only noticeable when looking straight on the LED itself. Verified it's the bulb by swapping sides...
Will contact Xenon Depot but not happy, I did not replace incandescent bulb for this plus there is no bulb-out warning anymore due to the ballast...
Here we go. One Philips bulb doesn't work anymore only after ~ 2 weeks. It's glowing red but doesn't light up, just a faint red glow only noticeable when looking straight on the LED itself. Verified it's the bulb by swapping sides...
Will contact Xenon Depot but not happy, I did not replace incandescent bulb for this plus there is no bulb-out warning anymore due to the ballast...
Xenondepot sent Philips warranty registration form, 12 years warranty.
That's all they do for a customer. To be honest, if a product they sell fails after 2 weeks I'm expecting the seller to send replacement. Oh well...
That's how I did it with only one difference.
Spliced into harness not so close to the taillight connector but removed some of black splicing tape to splice into the cable farther away and used splicing tape to seal everything.
Xenondepot said they'd issue a replacement bulb after I talked to Philips and Xenondepot needs to deal with warranty claims...a bit of a pain, curious as to when the bulb arrives...
Here's the video of the final product. Left (Phillips LED), Right (OEM Bulb).
I would say the Phillips LED is slightly brighter than stock and gives that "instant-ON" look. Def. appears street legal.
I will give an update on this a month from now to see how the LEDs/resistors are holding up.
Tallguy, if you are still having issues please contact us directly. The 3157 LED bulbs on the Grand Cherokee do require the canbus adapters to be installed to function properly. That's because of the canbus system in the vehicle and the fact the LED's draw less power. Often, a bad connection on the wire-tap will prevent them from functioning properly.
John: Yes. Compliments to your website, easy to add the adapter/resistor to the 3157 LED.
One bulb lasted less than a week, you just issued a replacement bulb and I've installed it. Everything working OK. I'm hoping the LED's will last a while, 12 years warranty. If they keep failing this modification would not only be dangerous (no bulb out warning) and a major pain...
I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the good service.
Mine failed way quickly so my personal failure rate would be considered extremely high...Could possibly be that all other bulbs last years but not mine.
I was not happy that John initially made no effort at all sending a replacement bulb. After me talking to Philips directly you guys did the right thing. Not exactly Amazon type service but you replaced the bulb and for that I'm thankful.
I'd not hesitate to buy from you again and I'll post back here, the OEM bulbs and some tools travel with me for the next little while...
Ok thanks again....last question, can you recommend a good LED DRL bulb (sold by Xenon Depot) that will work well for a 2011 jeep grand cherokee overland (with HID headlights)?
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