Yellow LED map light replacement guide with pictures.

JTS97Z28 · Mar 4, 2016

First off, mods if you want to turn this into a DIY and place in appropriate forum go ahead and edit as necessary if need be. I figure it would get most visibility in here for now. This is not about replacing all the plug and play 194 bulbs throughout the interior. This is a how-to for the factory installed yellow LED map lights.
Be warned, if you are not familiar with soldering or do not have a very steady hand do not attempt this. Overall it's an easy job, but when it comes time to connect the new LEDs it does require soldering connections onto a very small and fragile ribbon cable. I do all my mods so that if wanted I can put back to stock without permanently damaging or changing anything factory. This applies to this mod although I don't see why I ever would.
I am very picky with my mods and absolutely did not want that hyper white or cool blue 6000k look. I wanted pure white, or as the bulbs are called "natural white". These bulbs match the color and output brightness of a new car coming OEM with LED interior lights as closely as possible. You won't find a better match if you're an OEM kinda guy like myself.
These are the bulbs which matched my natural white superbrightled 194 bulbs. They have double sided tape on one side and are pre-wired making them perfect for this job. You need 2 of them: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/little-dot-smd-led-accent-light/639/
These are the matching 194 bulbs I bought. You need 8 of them: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...ge-base/194-can-bus-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/1127/

Here are some basic install instructions along with pictures. The results are absolutely perfect! Color and output couldn't be better and could pass as a 100% OEM interior light setup.

-remove console. No tools needed it's clips only. Start by working your fingers in a gap on the front side closest to the windshield and work your way around. It's in there good, but it won't break. Disconnect the wire harness and remove.
-remove the 12 T10 torx screws. Then the rest just all comes apart with plastic clips.
-remove the blue circuit board. There are four black clips holding it in place. Do not pull far away because there is a ribbon cable that you need to detach first.
-on the side, pull out the white tabs for the ribbon cable and remove that.
-remove all three LED boards. Again, just tabs holding them in. Two side boards and the center ambient light LED.
-remove black tape over soldered connections on each side LED to expose the solder joints.
-carefully heat them up and gently disconnect the ribbon cable.
-now you will rotate the LED board over. You will eventually reattach it so the original LED faces upward. This is so you can use the original board as a mount for the new LED.
-attach the new LED using the double sided tape. Be sure it's perfectly centered opposite side of the original bulb for correct focus through lens.
-now the tricky part. Solder the new bulb wire leads to the ribbon cable. I'm not sure if it's polarity sensitive, but both bulbs worked first time for me. Then using whatever you like cover those new connections so they don't flex or move. I like using hot glue gun. Basically cover that entire connection so it's now stiff and sealed.
-now the rest is fairly easy and just involves putting everything back together and cleaning up and placing the wires in good spots. These particular LEDs from superbrightleds have a ribbon cable and heat shrink so there will be excess you need to find a spot for. Mine are actually outside the circuit board housing as I couldn't get it to close with those in there. See pics.
-reinstall to ensure proper operation.

Here is the original LED map light on compared to my new natural white 194 bulbs. This is what it will look like unless you do this mod. Not terrible, but definitely not the prettiest when both are on.

Console opened up showing stock LED map light compared to my new superbrightleds natural white 194 bulb.

Back of console. 12 T10 torx screws to remove.

Console opened to expose the blue circuit board.

Removal of circuit board.

Original LED map light.

Solder connections on opposite side of LED board.

Ribbon cable and LED board placement.

Ribbon cable and LED boards removed.

New LEDs installed.

Boards and ribbon cable reinstalled.

Complete board reinstalled into console. Excess wire gets tucked away.

Finished!

Both bulbs on.

Just the new map lights.

Perfect interior light color and output! Pictures taken at night.

BobsWK2 · Mar 5, 2016

Very nice write up and they look great. I'm officially jealous. I might have to get up the nerve to do the same thing.

Mrr04004 · Mar 5, 2016

Great write up. The best ov seen and I have researched this a lot. Awesome photos. Right now I took the easy way out and just covered those map lights with electrical tape.

Don't know if I'm going to try it or not yet but if I do I will us this as a guide.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage

JTS97Z28 · Mar 5, 2016

Mrr04004 said:
Great write up. The best ov seen and I have researched this a lot. Awesome photos. Right now I took the easy way out and just covered those map lights with electrical tape.

Don't know if I'm going to try it or not yet but if I do I will us this as a guide

Thanks, yeah the job would be very easy if it wasn't for that flat ribbon cable. I'm still trying to think of an easier way to do it, but I can't really see anyway around having to use that existing ribbon cable.

My1stJGC · Mar 5, 2016

Great write up. Those are the same ones I used. I soldered mine differently then you cause I accidentally broke the connection at the circuit board. Flipped the board over and stuck new led to that.

Mrr04004 · Mar 6, 2016

So have you guys tackled the front footwell LED. You won't know it's there unless you look for it, I found it when I was changing out the other footwell lights. This front LED is so faint even in complete darkness you can't even tell its there. I was thinking getting something a little bright and maybe blue to match the other accent lights. I know it's on a small board so i would guess it would have to be done in a similar way of the the map lights.

Maybe even the LED lights you had a link for earlier in this thread and just splice into the wires there?

Sent from my iPhone using JeepGarage

JTS97Z28 · Mar 6, 2016

I have not done that as I am happy with the stock ones. I actually like the faint glow instead of brighter obvious light. But yeah it would be fairly straight forward. You have the front footwell lights, rear footwell, and the overhead console has one aiming down as well. The overhead console light is on the center circuit board shown above.
All is very doable, but I will not be messing with though.

blk14altitude · Mar 17, 2016

Thanks to James for this write up. Did my overhead console last night. Let me tell you it was a PITA!!! You have to have a lot of patience. That ribbon cable is not easy to work with. I must have gone from my Jeep to my work area 20 times - trying the console to see if the lights work before I reassembled it. At one point I had both map lights working so I reassembled the console and installed it. I closed the door and all the lights went out except for one map light. I said WTF. Then I remembered, hey there's a switch to turn those off. Works perfectly now.

mithman3 · Mar 21, 2016

Hey guys I decided to replace the map lights today and after hooking everything up, the new LEDS come on but will not go off at all. I waited and waited and nothing, I even turned the car on went through all the light setting with the dial and even after turning the engine off the new LEDs will not go out. I even after hours of trying connected the ribbon cables back to the factory LEDs and now same thing with them, they come on and will not go off with the other interior lights. I even tried switching the connections and when I did that the new LEDs don't even come on so i know the polarity is correct. Any ideas on what I did wrong here or how to correct it? thank you in advance.

JTS97Z28 · Mar 21, 2016

I'm trying to think of what the heck could cause that. The only thing I can think of is you messed up the connections somehow. Are you 100% confident in your solder job? Are the leads by any chance touching each other? As you know the connections are going to be extremely close together and you have to make sure they aren't touching whatsoever. After I made my connections I basically covered them in hot glue gun. This basically made it so that there will be no movement at all and kind of seals it up.
What LED are you using?

Mozzie · Mar 21, 2016

Just to cover all the obvious:

- dimmer dial is NOT turned to full on
- can dimmer dial turn them off ?
- map lights have separate on button in the overhead console. Are these off ?

Next step may be to check that the soldering has not gone across multiple tracks unnecessarily

mithman3 · Mar 21, 2016

found my issue, ribbon cable connection was not soldered correctly. I cut them all off and re soldered all 4 connections, all fixed and all working correctly now.

mithman3 · Mar 21, 2016

thank you guys! I couldn't let this go through the night! LOL now I can sleep tonight.

Mozzie · Mar 21, 2016

:arms::arms::arms:

Herpiesfreesince93 · Sep 18, 2016

JT I need your home address so I can send you my housing for replacement.

botlfed98 · Sep 18, 2016

nice! why didn't i think of this

Herpiesfreesince93 · Sep 18, 2016

It looks like if I am a total noob to soldering that I shouldn't make this my first project.

JTS97Z28 · Sep 19, 2016

Yeah even though it can be done, these are VERY small connections and you are also dealing with a very thin and fragile ribbon cable.
Id you are a NOOB, what I would recommend doing is maybe buying a second overhead console. They seem to be readily available used on ebay for pretty cheap in new condition. That way if one gets messed up you have the original to go back to. Just a thought if you think you wanna give it a shot.

Herpiesfreesince93 · Nov 3, 2016

Ok so with the help of a friend who works at a business who does soldering I completed the LED swap. The difference in person is nothing short of amazing:
Before:

After:

JTS97Z28 · Nov 4, 2016

^^^VERY nice!! Looks awesome.

Herpiesfreesince93 · Nov 4, 2016

Thank you. I also did the vanitys and lift gate while I was at it. When you see the leds right next to the sock lights you can really appreciate the difference:

Herpiesfreesince93 · Nov 20, 2016

Ok the bulbs OEM are TS-14v1CP34 and their SBled replacement is mocdel F30 part number 847781011623

DoubleJSTL · Nov 20, 2016

I did this project successfully today, below are a few of my takeaways.

I used these in "cool 6000k" and they matched my Philips T10/194 bulbs very well.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-wired-bolts/little-dot-smd-led-accent-light/639/

1) Although the disassembly is relatively straight forward (only 4 parts) take pictures as you go along - it will make reassembly easier.

2) If you don't have a high quality, high temp soldering iron, get one. It is important to have high enough heat (but not too much) in order to desolder (and not break) the two tiny wires. I used this since it is a 3 in 1 tool and it is cordless.

Bernzomatic ST500T Auto Ignite Butane Torch-335258 - The Home Depot

3) If/when you break one of the wires, it is relatively easy to strip back the fragile ribbon. First, use a new, sharp razor blade and split the wire in two in order to separate the two leads. Then, "fillet" or skin the white coating off of the wire. The wire is relatively strong, if you don't get all of the white plastic removed, you can use the tip of the soldering iron to burn the plastic coating off, leaving the wire behind.

4) Before soldering the connection, put a little solder on the led wire and soldering iron tip first. This will eliminate the need for a third hand and you can touch the two wires together, bring them into the flame and still have a strong joint. ***minimize the amount of time on the iron or you will melt the ribbon wire*** thus why a hot iron is important...

5) Instead of using hot glue to cover the connections, I used heat shrink tubing to cover the connection. Be sure to place the tube on BEFORE you solder the connection and be VERY gentle with the heat as you could melt the ribbon cable. While hot glue will hold the connection together, I was concerned on how I would remove the glue if the connection came apart...

Notes:

TEST the soldering connection BEFORE you put completely reassemble the console.

Polarity DOES MATTER the negative on the ribbon cable is the side with the blue (or black) writing on it. Connect the black (negative) color to the ribbon with the writing on it.

I used the double sided tape on the LED to attach to the board, it is surprisingly strong and the LED shouldn't fall off over time.

Herpiesfreesince93 · Nov 20, 2016

One thing to make a note of. The guy that did my job had such a problem soldering to the ribbon cable (one led would flicker) he instead soldered the new leds right to a solder joint on the actual board. The connect is much more stable like this. With the RVT sealant over the connection those wires aren't going anywhere.

caltxs · Dec 24, 2016

Thank you for the write up, I followed it almost to the T but used DoubleJSTL polarity configuration and it works perfect. Only took 30-45 min once new LEDs arrived. The only thing i did different was pull the original LEDS off with needle nose so i could mount the new ones directly over where they should be then i just soldered the connections directly to the board without removing the ribbon cable using the polarity configuration DoubleJSTL used. Thanks JTS97Z28, DoubleJSTL and to all others who contributed to this awesome mod.

Robbydale · Feb 9, 2017

The pics now just show an X. I am REALLY wanting to do this, any chance you could repost the pictures or e-mail them to me? Thanks

don_draper · Oct 27, 2017

I found out the hard way that this is not a good project to teach yourself to solder... But I got it done, and replaced both of the map lights as well as the center light that aims down. The center light doesn't receive enough power to really tell a difference(see pic). Finding a place for the wires was the most difficult part, I ended up having to use my dremel to cut a spot for them. Thanks for the instructions!

aceking3150 · Nov 6, 2017

To anyone that wants to do this, its not as hard as it seems. What I did, instead of soldering the wire of the new LED to the existing factory ribbon wire, was pull the LED off and use the two leads that go into the board, right where the ribbon wire connects to the board. wipe the surface clean, twist your wire slightly, get some solder onto the wire, lay it over the correct lead, and heat it up until the solder melts. I put hot glue over the wires and connections after I was done and tucked the wires away nicely. It looks so much better than the ugly yellow.

htown panda · Nov 14, 2017

Has anyone tackled the small circular (1" diameter) rear map lights in the 2017s? They look like the front map lights discussed in this thread but you push the circle to turn them on. Just to be clear, the 2017s have gone away from the lights in the handles on the roof liner. The handles have been relocated to the B pillar. You can sort of see them here. I've been able to replace all the interior bulbs with LEDs except these.

Found a better picture.

30birdy99 · May 3, 2019

htown panda said:
Has anyone tackled the small circular (1" diameter) rear map lights in the 2017s? They look like the front map lights discussed in this thread but you push the circle to turn them on. Just to be clear, the 2017s have gone away from the lights in the handles on the roof liner. The handles have been relocated to the B pillar. You can sort of see them here. I've been able to replace all the interior bulbs with LEDs except these.

Found a better picture.

Did anyone ever figure out how to upgrade these to cool white LEDs?

Yellow LED map light replacement guide with pictures.

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