well guys, this one of the few times I have posted to a forum. I am in need of some help with my 07 commander limited w/ 5.7 hemi. It has taken a notion to die at random times while driving down the road. I had hoped it was bad gas by the way it was reacting after just recently puting a few gallons in less than a half mile before the first stall episode. So far I have tried gas-dry and fresh gas, a new map sonsor, cleaning the throttle body, new champion 570 spark plugs (the correct factory type plug), the condition seems slightly better, but, this evening while driving it, the stalling is not as bad, it seems to just die, resart, and continue running, all with out any input from me. it is not throwing any codes other than a p0884, which is an intermittent signal loss to the tcm. I believe that code is irrelevent and caused by the engine dying while driving down the road, and all the research i have done states that replacing the pcm/tcm unit did not help. I am asking if there is a likely chance that throttle body assembly is going bad, or is there some else that has proved to be the answer to this situation. I am having a hard time finding consistant information and recent answers on various sites in regards to this. I would like thank all that respond in advance for your time and help.
thanks for replying, this is a new to me vehichle, it had 110k when I got it, it now has 125k, the history is unknown to me. It went for six plus months on irriduim plugs with no problems (in when purchased, I have changed the plugs only this one time). It will die anytime anywhere. The only thing that I have seen is the light for the etc pop up as it restarts on its own (only while driving, doesnt resart when in park/neutral). i have read many post in regards to the egr valve, how does that cause the engine to die randomly? I only ask so that I can better understand this engine. And again thanks for you time.
The EGR valve opens up to allow exhaust gas to go back into the engine to lower the combustion chamber temperature (yes it sounds weird that exhaust gas would lower combustion temperatures...but it does!).
This helps improve fuel efficiency, reduces emissions, and allows the engine to run cooler, as the combustion point of the fuel is lower. Basically, it allows the engine to run much leaner, without causing knock.
If the EGR valve is stuck, the computer can not adjust the correct amount of exhaust gas coming back into the engine, and this can cause it to stall (most often at idle or low RPMs when the EGR valve should be closed).
It does not sound like your problem is EGR related, as the vehicle is cutting out randomly.
Another common problem with the WKs is with the ignition switch causing the engine to shut off...that could be something to look at (though I don't know if that is a problem with the commanders as well). However, without codes being thrown and any sort of pattern to stalling it will be tough to diagnose without actually having someone look at the vehicle and monitor it as the problem replicates.
Dr. lee, I appreciate your time very much. I did replace the egr today, and that also, did not work. There is no obvious reason why it is dying like it is. Although now, its not dying completely. Just droping rpms and resarting, unless its while driving, then a stop of anykind results in engine shutting off... I have thrown in the towel, realizing that I need real time data to see why it is acting the way that it is. If there is anything I should consider, or have the mechanic look for while he is looking at it would be very helpful. Again thank you so much for the time.
I'd just replace the ignition switch. For $20 it's worth just replacing it as preventative maintenance. At least it is on the WK. Not sure about the XKs.
In appreciate all the help so far. It currently at a shop that I trust. So far the mechanic has checked it, and he has been unable to find any thing that he belives is the culprit. I will post back when I get it back on the road. thanks again to everyone.
I was having similar problems with my 4.7. I replaced the TPS ($30 from Advance Auto) and have not stalled once since replacing. I would assume the Hemis have a TPS as well, but am not positive.
As of right now, the mechanic I have taken it to seems to think that it could be a crank sensor or throttle body. The crank sensor being cheaper, he is going ahead and trying that first. Have any of you heard about reprograming the computer for a new throttle body? I am trying to find more info on this, but the more info from more people I have the better understanding I have. Thanks so much for your all's help.
There is a long thread on the other Jeep Forum about this issue. The fault "appears" to be the upper engine wiring harness, which was apparently produced by a different vendor during the 07 model production, up to and including 08s built in August of 07. This wiring harness "may" have faulty splices, causing intermittent engine shutdowns due to unexpected spikes. There has never been a definitive code thrown, the engine just immediately stalls.
At least one owner replaced the harness, which seemed to work. However, fiddling with the engine harness seems to work also. Many owners have had success wrapping their harness junctions with foil as additional sheilding, which may be working simply because the splices are being pushed back together.
If it was me I would pull the car from the mechanic and test the harness on my own. With the engine idling I would gently tug around and see if I could get it to stall. I would NOT continue throwing parts and labor at this (other than possibly replacing the harness). Everything seems to work temporarily, but nobody can put their finger on what exactly is happening.
BTW, the most common precursor to this is using incorrect plugs. Not just Iridium, but Champion plugs bought from anywhere but the dealer. In the same Champion part #, one is silver-topped and the other is black-topped--and I can't remember which is the correct one. But to repeat, the correct Champion part number bought outside of a dealer is the wrong plug. But it doesn't always cause problems.
I appreciate the reply's,,, I believe it to be the throttle body now. I Have had the Jeep for a few months now, and the plugs that were in it were iridium plugs. I had no problems with jeep while they have been in there. As for the wiring harness, I have tried wiggling nearly every part of it that could reach while it was running with no change. When the engine stalls out the oil light and throttle light are the only lights come on and tach shows no engine speed. The vehicle has over 120k miles on it now, and i am very aware that parts wear out. So with all things considered, something has worn out. Again, I thank everyone that has helped out. Once I have tried the throttle body I will post back with results.
Okay,,, So after a couple of hours of screwing with it,, no change. The throttle body is not the problem. I would like to know if there is a safety built into the oil pressure sensor circuit that will cut the motor off if sense's a low pressure? I am noticing that oil and engine light as well as the throttle light is coming on when it does stalling trick. Any info on that will be great. Thanks.
Vipper, go to the "other" Jeep Forum and read up on the 07 stalling problem. The problem described there is not due to airflow or oil pressure or fuel flow. It is a case of the motor immediately dying, and the only remaining culprit is the electrical buss.
Most had no symptoms until they reach roughly 50k miles or more. Then, something triggers it, very often the wrong plugs. After that, they can stall several times a day, then go for many thousand miles without a problem--then the problem comes back on its own.
My own personal experience with my 2010 is that the electrical systems are hopelessly frail. So while I have no stalling issues I can accept that the stalling described in that forum is electrically-related.
Good luck to you. If it was me, I would focus on a labor-intensive approach that held the cost of parts down.
Thank you John. I have read many other posts. In other places as well. I came here because there seems to be more current responses than the other places. I have done all labor myself. I do not agreed with other people doing the work I am capable of doing. As far as the electrical bus is concered, do have any direction or knoweldge of where I should start with this search? I appreciate the time you all have givin me.
Well everyone, it has been a few weeks of fighting with the beast. I still have no answer for my problem. It is still cutting out when I drive or when idling. I can hardly get it moving. I wont drive it right now. There is a long list of things that I have done to try to fix it, the only thing I have figured out is a bunch of things that are not the problem. I am running out of sanity to continue on with this fight. So if any one has any logical possibilties I am all ears at this point. If I must write out all the things that I have done will. Thank you all for time and effort.
Well everyone, I gave in and took it back to where I got at. The people were very kind, and done what they could to make it right. They had me bring it to them and they took it to a chrysler dealership. What really surprises me, is that it seems to be a coil pack. I have it back now and it seems to be running right. I'll give it some time and see if has taken care of my problem. I would like to thank everyone for the time, and help offered. I hope everyone has a good one.
Just an update for all those that maybe wondering. I finally figured out what the problem was, it turned out to be the spark plugs. After looking again, I had some that were not black tipped. After changing all of them the stalling problem has stopped. So after a lot of money chasing that gremlin, I was able to get it running right. I want to thank all of those that helped me along the way.
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