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  #13  
Old 05-28-2012, 11:26 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Trying to do this now, quick response would be appreciated. How is everyone getting the lower clevis bolt out? I have a 25" breaker bar with a 21mm socket on there and I'm going at it pretty hard. The arms themselves appear to be torqing, not just the bolt.
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  #14  
Old 05-28-2012, 11:44 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

When i did my OME, i couldnt get the Clevis to budge, so i worked around it. If you're just replacing the UCA's, why do you need to touch that bolt anyway? You should be able to replace them, MAYBE just unscrew the upper strut mount bolts and allow the strut assembly to fall - thats if you're using sockets. If you're using crescent wrench(adjustable) on the inside fender wall - you should be good..
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:53 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

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Originally Posted by jlewissystem View Post
When i did my OME, i couldnt get the Clevis to budge, so i worked around it. If you're just replacing the UCA's, why do you need to touch that bolt anyway? You should be able to replace them, MAYBE just unscrew the upper strut mount bolts and allow the strut assembly to fall - thats if you're using sockets. If you're using crescent wrench(adjustable) on the inside fender wall - you should be good..
UCA mounting bolt won't pass by the springs...

I already unscrewed the 4 upper mount bolts. Currently I have a floor jack under the LCA. If I allow the LCA to drop as far as it will go, the strut assembly doesn't voluntarily fall through the frame. I figured I need to undo the clevis bolt so I could pull the assembly down.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:57 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Dont lift it via the LCA, do it from the crossmember, then you can adjust the height of the wheel assembly - that will give you up and down play.

Best case is if you have 2 jacks - bigger one under crossmember and smaller under LCA to adjust height.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:59 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

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Originally Posted by jlewissystem View Post
Dont lift it via the LCA, do it from the crossmember, then you can adjust the height of the wheel assembly - that will give you up and down play.
Yea I got the jack stand under there supporting. The floor jack is not supporting the vehicle, just adjusting LCA height. Still no dice.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:04 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

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Originally Posted by swing4terps View Post
Yea I got the jack stand under there supporting. The floor jack is not supporting the vehicle, just adjusting LCA height. Still no dice.
Hmmm - sorry man - worked for me. You can also let the strut assembly fall all the way out of the upper holes and swing it out (hinging from the clevis bolt) - that also worked for me, when i replaced the springs.

See pic:
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:09 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlewissystem View Post
Hmmm - sorry man - worked for me. You can also let the strut assembly fall all the way out of the upper holes and swing it out (hinging from the clevis bolt) - that also worked for me, when i replaced the springs.

See pic:
^^^^^^if I could get it like that I'd be golden. My thing is even if I let the LCA drop as far as possible the strut assembly isn't falling voluntarily at all much less enough for the bolts to drop through the frame. How did you get the bolts through the frame?
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:12 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Unbolt the ball-joint on the UCA (which i'm sure you've already done), also unbolt the sway bar end links. Everything should hang - watch your brake lines - dont need to be doing extra mods YOu might need to have someone stand on it or kick the hub assembly down while someone else pulls the strut assembly out. That should do it.
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Old 05-28-2012, 12:22 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Still don't get why all the work to change the uca, maybe Im missing something. Do the springs bow out like a bee hive or something in the middle?

I have eibach srt lowering spings and was able to push them forward (away from the engine) and pull the bolt out from behind the spring not thru it. I just had the jeep on jacks and stands with the suspension unloaded.

I would thing a standard or lifted jeep would have a longer spring and would have more flexibility in the middle of the spring to push it out and remove bolt.

Or what about a coil spring spreader to spread the coils where the bolt are to pull the bolt thru the coil spring
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  #22  
Old 05-28-2012, 03:09 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Again, as I previously mentioned you basically have double drop springs, fewer coils, more space, your springs are to lower an already lowered vehicle... Everyone sharing troubles is either stock or lifted (more coils in the way).

That said I am in need of some new front struts (damn you speed bumps!) and Ill eyeball it again when Im back in there.
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  #23  
Old 05-28-2012, 03:35 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

I have the stock springs, and was able to fit the UCA bolts past the coils, but it was one heck of a job and took a lot of moving the LCA up and down and backing the bolt out thread by thread. I also had both front wheels off the floor, and at times had to jack up the opposite side I was working on to get the clearence.

Some of the bolts were relative easy to fit past the spring (drivers and passenger front). The rear bolts were a huge PITA, but after about an hour of fighting with it I was able to fit them past.

Getting them back in was just as tough - I actually had to put the passenger rear in backwards (with the nut on the inside of the wheel well)...it was getting late, and I didn't feel like fighting with it for another hour or two to get it to fit in.

Certainly doens't look as pretty, but from what I have seen in the month or so since i did it it doesn't cause any problems...
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:22 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Quote:
Originally Posted by swing4terps View Post
^^^^^^if I could get it like that I'd be golden. My thing is even if I let the LCA drop as far as possible the strut assembly isn't falling voluntarily at all much less enough for the bolts to drop through the frame. How did you get the bolts through the frame?
Did you get it out? I had to use something to pry my drivers side strut assembly out after loosening the top bolts. It was just about 1/8" to 1/4" in their thru-holes still so with a little convincing of a wrench. I was able to flex the assembly enough to get it to slip out. Passenger side dropped easy. I didn't have to touch the LCA in either case.
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