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  #25  
Old 05-29-2012, 09:24 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

You do not need to remove the calipers to get the strut out.

Here's a tip: When you loosen the nut to the upper ball joint, leave it on but with at least several threads engaged. That way, when you pop the BJ, the knuckle will be held in place rather than falling down and bruising you badly or snapping the brake line. Tie some twine around the knuckle to support it when free. This will keep the brake line happy.
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  #26  
Old 05-29-2012, 10:02 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

I got finally was able to get the bolt out. The trick was removing the sway link bolt which allowed the LCA to drop further, and thus the strut assembly through the frame. Then I pulled the assembly away from the engine like in jlew's picture, and easy access to the bolt.

On the down side, somehow the bolt that connects the sway link to the LCA got stripped so I have to pick up another one and possibly a tap to re-thread the hole.

This was the second 6 hour day I spent trying to get that damn bolt out. The first day I didn't know about the strut upper mount bolts, so big thanks to everyone for their help. I will spend my third day this weekend doing the other side which I hope will go a lot smoother/quicker now I know what to do. I'll chalk it up as a learning experience...I know a little more about my Jeep and more so that I wish I would have just paid the mechanic after all the trouble.

Oh well! Thanks again for all the help.
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  #27  
Old 05-30-2012, 02:40 AM
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Glad you got it out. I should have mentioned I also took the sway link off but Im glad you figured it out yourself!

My first side took about 5 hours, passenger side took only 1.5 including cleanup once I figured out all the same stuff you went through!
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  #28  
Old 06-02-2012, 02:34 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Alright everyone, need some advice.

As mentioned above somehow when undoing the connection where the sway link meets the LCA the thread on the LCA and the bolt got stripped. So I ordered a new bolt from the dealer who told me it was M12 x 1.75 in size. Also, took the old bolt to Home Depot who also told me it was the same size.

Then I went to Fastenal and bought a thread tap of the same size. Re-tap the thread, put in the new bolt I got and....

the threads are too big for the bolt to the point I can just pull the bolt out without twisting. I was like WTF. Looked at the tap and sure enough engraved on there it says M12 x 1.75. Took the tap back to Home Depot and could not get an M12 x 1.75 nut on there.

Obviously a this point I wished I would have checked the tap first, but I can't. It is clear the thread tap was made to the incorrect size and now my LCA is messed up because of it. I am incredibly pissed! I'm debating going to Fastenal and proving to them it is the wrong size and then demanding they give me the money to replace my LCA. ($650 on J4J). Does it sound ridiculous to do so? How do you think it will go?
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  #29  
Old 06-03-2012, 03:49 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

You have nothing to loose by trying. Just don't start with anger as often will do less to try and help. Can always get angry if they just try to fob you off. They may at least give you a Helicoil to make the repair.
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  #30  
Old 06-03-2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swing4terps View Post
Alright everyone, need some advice.

As mentioned above somehow when undoing the connection where the sway link meets the LCA the thread on the LCA and the bolt got stripped. So I ordered a new bolt from the dealer who told me it was M12 x 1.75 in size. Also, took the old bolt to Home Depot who also told me it was the same size.

Then I went to Fastenal and bought a thread tap of the same size. Re-tap the thread, put in the new bolt I got and....

the threads are too big for the bolt to the point I can just pull the bolt out without twisting. I was like WTF. Looked at the tap and sure enough engraved on there it says M12 x 1.75. Took the tap back to Home Depot and could not get an M12 x 1.75 nut on there.

Obviously a this point I wished I would have checked the tap first, but I can't. It is clear the thread tap was made to the incorrect size and now my LCA is messed up because of it. I am incredibly pissed! I'm debating going to Fastenal and proving to them it is the wrong size and then demanding they give me the money to replace my LCA. ($650 on J4J). Does it sound ridiculous to do so? How do you think it will go?
I'd be more inclined to believe the nut/bolt at home depot is wrong and not the tap. Does the tap slide through your sway link? If so, you can go and find whatever bolt matches the tap and use that instead. Fastenal might have it too if they're selling the tap.
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  #31  
Old 06-03-2012, 01:09 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Tap does not slide through the sway link. The tap is the wrong size. I know this because I took it to Home Depot and fit it in an M16 nut.
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  #32  
Old 06-04-2012, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swing4terps View Post
Tap does not slide through the sway link. The tap is the wrong size. I know this because I took it to Home Depot and fit it in an M16 nut.
Well I sure hope you can figure out a solution! Any way you go, it looks to be expensive. Replace the LCA or get a custom M16 to M12 reducing stud. Was it difficult to tap the M16 thread in the M12 hole? There must have been a LOT of chips coming out as you were doing it.
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  #33  
Old 07-02-2012, 10:03 PM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Does anybody know the torque specs for the shock assembly mount bolts? Car has been riding ough since UCA replacement and tire rotation. Trying to pinpoint the problem? It is possible to tighten these bolts too tight?
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  #34  
Old 07-03-2012, 08:53 AM
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Re: Installing/Replacing UCAs

Here ya go (all are in ft. lbs):

Shock Absorber Upper Nuts 70
Shock Absorber Clevis Bracket 60
Clevis Bracket to Lower Control Arm 125
Upper Control Arm Bolt/Nut to Body 90
Lower Control Arm Bolt 105
Lower Control Arm Bolt 125
Upper Ball Joint Nut 55
Lower Ball Joint Nut 70
Stabilizer Bar Retainer Bolts 105
Stabilizer Bar Link Upper Nut 100
Stabilizer Bar Link Lower Bolt 85
Hub Bearing Knuckle Bolts 100
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