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Should I be concerned about this much rust?

7K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  Madanio24 
#1 ·
#2 ·
Thats a lot of rust IMO.

I would do something about it
 
#5 ·
Sounds like a lot of work for something that, in my opinion, will never cause much of a problem. You're going to have other major issues before anything rusts to the point of failure back there. Maybe clean it up a little, but I'd personally just make sure it was nice and dry and spray over it. 2 cents.
 
#7 ·
I dropped the spare and got under there with a wire wheel, PITA! :mad: I was only able to get some of the rust off of the inner passenger side frame. I don't know if a grinder would work better, or it just might be over my head. I might get a quote from a local body shop and see what they say.


Here are some more pictures from before I started today
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4hoqqklqescrixv/2012-06-24 16.35.42.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ey5mxp0v315xomg/2012-06-24 16.34.09.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qnorblias4dxmoy/2012-06-24 16.34.35.jpg
 
#12 ·
I dropped the spare and got under there with a wire wheel, PITA! :mad: I was only able to get some of the rust off of the inner passenger side frame. I don't know if a grinder would work better, or it just might be over my head. I might get a quote from a local body shop and see what they say.


Here are some more pictures from before I started today
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4hoqqklqescrixv/2012-06-24 16.35.42.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ey5mxp0v315xomg/2012-06-24 16.34.09.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qnorblias4dxmoy/2012-06-24 16.34.35.jpg
I can't see the middle picture but the third indicates that you have rust under the factory paint. The good news is that it doesn't look like you have much metal loss.

I would not recommend simply painting over it, or getting a body shop to do that for you. The best way to fix it is to wire brush the coating off along with any loose rust then treat it with a product that stabilizes the rust, then paint it with an inexpensive tractor implement paint.
 
#10 · (Edited)
clean it up much as you can and use rubberized undercoating have you tried one of those flappy sandpaper wheels (dont forget the eye protection had a friend lose the sight in his eye when one of the wires in a wire wheel come loose and pierce his pupil)
have you checked youre rear diff levels lately looks like its leaking

id say considering where you live the rust is normal
 
#11 ·
Sheesh I was concerned about a bit of surface rust on my WK, but yours looks like you live in Canada with all the salt on their roads in the winters...
 
#13 ·
I would get a 3M rust remover disc. Fits in an electric drill, it looks like a round brush and is very good in removing loose rust. THen I would get some POR 15 (look it up on the internet) brush it on and the rusted area will turn black. This seals out water and other problems and stops the rusting action. I have used this when repairing old cars. I usually buy POR 15 from venders at swap meets or car shows but you can order online from the maker. make sure you dont paint from the container it comes in, and make sure you seal up what is left or it will harden and go bad.
 
#14 ·
THen I would get some POR 15 (look it up on the internet) brush it on and the rusted area will turn black. This seals out water and other problems and stops the rusting action. I have used this when repairing old cars.
I've used POR-15 kits to clean and seal rusty motorcycle tanks. I'll vouch for it's longevity and effectiveness. That stuff is pretty legit. Costly, but you get what you pay for.
 
#28 ·
I just got my Jeep back from the dealer tonight, my dad dropped it off this morning for oil/diff/tire rotation/"V6 engine Tune-up" whatever the hell that is (I told them is was idling rough)/program my fogs (which is a whole other bag of worms).

He also picked it up so all I have to go by is the printout summary, but they say the diff levels were fine. Which really bugs me because 4,000 miles ago they said I should get it flushed, so either back then I didn't need it and they were trying to upsell me ... or I did need it and still do and the guy today is an idiot. Or I still don't need it... I don't know which case bothers me more :(
 
#22 ·
Use the POR 15 after you get the rust removed the best you can. The POR 15 will stop any further rust from forming. DO NOT use rubberized undercoating, this will only trap the water and gas from the rusting metal in and cause it to get worse. You won't know it until the undercoating starts to detatch it's self from the rusted area. Undercoating is only for clean treated metal. Someone here at work treated the underside of a Jeep with spray on truck bed linner. I don't know what that will do down the road. It might be ok if it did not have any rust under it.
 
#31 ·
yes. You need to raise the car so the rear wheels drop down to reach the top diff bolts. Then just unbolt the case and put a pan underneath. Then once all the bolts are off you may have to gently tap it a few times with a rubber mallet. The fluid will call come out and then you will need to dry off the whole diff and get a RTV gasket maker. Apply a steady bead of gasket sealer on the whole case then put it back on the case only to hand tighten the bolts. Wait a little while before torquing the bolts down so the gasket has time to form the shape of the diff. When you are torquing the bolts make sure to not over tighten.

Then after its reassembled let it sit for a little whilebefore adding fluid, i waited about an hour. Lower the car down and make sure it is on a level surface. (When the cover was off make sure you popped off the rubber fill hole) Then add your diff fluid until the level starts to come out of the fill hole.
 
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