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  #1  
Old 07-18-2011, 08:24 AM
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Whining noise from engine

I replace the power steering this weekend. Piece of cake. But after putting it On I discovered the old pump was hiding a whine to the engine. It's coming from the bell crank or inside the block (can't get my face down there to tell. Sounds like a Ford Explorer. Also to mention that this is a refurb engine with less than 6k miles on it.

Any ideas?
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:03 AM
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Water pump. Mine did the same thing for about a month just before the water pump decided to puke all over the highway.
Mine was real noticeable at lower revs and even more noticeable when the AC was on. I'm assuming it was due to the extra load from the compressor. I was actually beginning to believe it was AC related until it totally went out.
Doug


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  #3  
Old 07-18-2011, 10:11 AM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

Just looked up the removal procedure to the water pump.... OMFG. I have to dissasemble the entire front end of the motor!
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:12 AM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

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Subarticles
  • WATER PUMP - 3.7L - REMOVAL
  • WATER PUMP - 3.7L - REMOVAL
  • WATER PUMP 4.7L - REMOVAL
  • WATER PUMP-5.7L - REMOVAL
  • WATER PUMP - 3.0L DIESEL - REMOVAL
  • WATER PUMP 3.7L - INSTALLATION
  • WATER PUMP 4.7L - INSTALLATION
  • WATER PUMP-5.7L - INSTALLATION
  • WATER PUMP-3.0L DIESEL - INSTALLATION


3.7L



Click to enlarge
The water pump on 3.7L engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
  2. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Warning: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER 6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Caution: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
  1. Remove two fan shroud-to-radiator screws, Disconnect the coolant overflow hose.
  2. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
  3. Remove lower radiator hose clamp and remove lower hose at water pump.
  4. Remove seven water pump mounting bolts and one stud bolt.
Caution: Do not pry water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.
  1. Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gasket.
4.7L



Click to enlarge
The water pump on 4.7L engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.
A gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover.
The water pump can be removed without discharging the air conditioning system (if equipped).
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
  2. Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE). Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
Warning: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP, SUCH AS TOOL 6094. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
Caution: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
  1. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
  2. Remove lower radiator hose clamp and remove lower hose at water pump.
  3. Remove seven water pump mounting bolts and one stud bolt.
Caution: Do not pry water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.
  1. Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gasket.
5.7L



Click to enlarge
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Drain coolant.
  3. Remove serpentine belt.
  4. Remove fan clutch assembly.
  5. Remove coolant fill bottle.
  6. Disconnect washer bottle wiring and hose.
  7. Remove fan shroud assembly.
  8. Remove A/C compressor and generator brace.
  9. Remove idler pulleys.
  10. Remove belt tensioner assembly.
  11. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses.
  12. Remove heater hoses.
  13. Remove water pump mounting bolts and remove pump.
3.0 L DIESEL



Click to enlarge
Warning: RISK OF INJURY TO SKIN AND EYES FROM SCALDING WITH HOT COOLANT . RISK OF POISONING FROM SWALLOWING COOLANT. DO NOT OPEN COOLING SYSTEM UNLESS COOLANT TEMPERATURE IS BELOW 90C (194F). OPEN CAP SLOWLY TO RELEASE PRESSURE. STORE COOLANT IN SUITABLE AND APPROPRIATELY MARKED CONTAINER. WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES, CLOTHES AND EYE WEAR.
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL).
  3. Drain engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  4. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL) .
  5. Disconnect coolant hoses at water pump.
  6. Remove idler pulley.
  7. Remove water pump and clean sealing surfaces .
3.7L ENGINE



Click to enlarge
The water pump on 3.7L engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case cover.
  1. Clean gasket mating surfaces.
  2. Using a new gasket, position water pump and install mounting bolts. Tighten water pump mounting bolts to 54 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
  3. Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.

Click to enlarge
  1. Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
  2. Relax tension from belt tensioner. Install drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
Caution: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. Refer to for correct belt routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing Label located in the engine compartment. The correct belt with correct length must be used.
  1. Be sure the upper and lower portions of the fan shroud are firmly connected. All air must flow through the radiator.
  2. Install two fan shroud-to-radiator screws.
  3. Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inches) between tips of fan blades and fan shroud.
  4. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  5. Connect negative battery cable.
  6. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
4.7L
  1. Clean gasket mating surfaces.
  2. Using a new gasket, position water pump and install mounting bolts as shown. . Tighten water pump mounting bolts to 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.) torque.

Click to enlarge
  1. Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
  2. Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
  3. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
Caution: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction.
  1. Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  2. Connect negative battery cable.
  3. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
5.7L



Click to enlarge
  1. Install water pump and mounting bolts. Tighten moubting bolts to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
  2. Install heater hoses.
  3. Install upper and lower radiator hoses.
  4. Install belt tensioner assembly.
  5. Install idler pulleys.
  6. Install A/C compressor and alternator brace. Tighten bolt and nuts to 28 Nm (21 ft. lbs.).
  7. Install fan shroud assembly.
  8. Connect washer bottle wiring and hose.
  9. Install coolant fill bottle.
  10. Install fan clutch assembly.
  11. Install serpentine belt.
  12. Connect negative battery cable.
  13. Fill coolant.
  14. Pressure test coolant system
3.0L DIESEL



Click to enlarge
  1. Clean all sealing surfaces.
  2. Position and install waterpump . Tighten M6 bolts to 14Nm (124 lbs. in.) and M8 bolts to 20Nm (177 lbs. in.).
  3. Install idler pulley. Tighten bolt to 35Nm (26 lbs. ft.).
  4. Install coolant hoses.
  5. Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION) .
  6. Close coolant drain.
  7. Install engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - INSTALLATION).
  8. Connect negative battery cable.
  9. Fill coolant system to proper level with the appropriate coolant mixture (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Warning: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHES.
  1. Start engine and inspect for leaks.





</DIV></DIV>
</DIV>
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  #5  
Old 07-18-2011, 10:15 AM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

F**k my life. Ive already replaced the EGR, Power Steering and front brakes this week. :'(. As an E3 i nthe Navy, I cant afford this shit all at once.
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  #6  
Old 07-18-2011, 11:12 AM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

Okie dokie. Part wasnt as expensive as I thought it was going to be but its still a grand total of $74 I didnt want to spend.


Here is a link to the cheapes one I found.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:57 PM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

you can be sure its an accessory by just removing the serp belt and starting the engine... if the noise is gone it is naturally going to be an accessory, if its not gone your going to need to look elsewhere... Dont get me wrong, im not disreguarding the waterpump idea, very well could be but the belt removal is a quick and easy way to verify an area...

Furthermore if (when the noise goes away after removing the belt, you can grab and spin pulleys and feel for tired bearings, either rough of sloppy on ALL accessories, idlers and tensioners.
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005JGC View Post
you can be sure its an accessory by just removing the serp belt and starting the engine... if the noise is gone it is naturally going to be an accessory, if its not gone your going to need to look elsewhere... Dont get me wrong, im not disreguarding the waterpump idea, very well could be but the belt removal is a quick and easy way to verify an area...

Furthermore if (when the noise goes away after removing the belt, you can grab and spin pulleys and feel for tired bearings, either rough of sloppy on ALL accessories, idlers and tensioners.
Good idea!


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Old 07-18-2011, 03:06 PM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

That link didn't open. Do you hear a whine when the A/C is on? Just a thought. And what is it that you just purchased? (I can't see it because the link won't open up for me)
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:22 PM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

It just opened for me again on a diff computer? Its a water pump.
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  #11  
Old 07-18-2011, 03:43 PM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

I just changed mine out a couple weeks ago. I had a whine for over a year and am so glad its finally gone! I started out replacing the tensioner and that didnt fix it, then i went to the water pump and problem solved! It really wasnt that hard. There are quite a few bolts, but i think all i have to remove was the belt, alternator, and then all the bolts holding the pump in.

Im just glad i swapped mine out before it failed on me. The whine started right after i got my new motor put in, so i just assumed it was from the intake or just the sound of the new motor. I grew tired of it after a year, pulled the belt, started her up and the whine was gone. So then i started throwing parts at it

I also made sure to use coolant from the dealership. Im not really a big believer that the wrong coolant could cause a problem, but for an extra $10 i figured why not. After my cam swap i had my fiance run up to autozone and grab some coolant. Ended up being the GM dex stuff which is supposedly the worst kind for the Hemi which is also why i flushed it out and went with Mopar coolant after swapping the pump.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:57 PM
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Re: Whining noise from engine

So just the alt and serpentine belt? Psh... that cuts the time down significantly opposed to the charts posted above! I already have good experience and practice working in there too. Lol.
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