I was told to make a thread about this so here it goes.
It isn't a hard
project but it takes time and patience.
Some tools I used:
Dremel with grinding stone and flex cable
Screwdrivers and torx bits
The problem with WK headlights is they aren't sealed with butyl rubber like most headlights, which makes getting them apart a royal PITA. Some of the HID housings are sealed with black silicone while others (mine!) are sealed with a hard plastic-like glue that is virtually impervious to heat, which made it even harder to get apart.
First, remove all electronics (ballast, leveling sensor, etc.) and bulbs from the housings.
Line a cookie sheet with a wet towel. I did this to keep the headlight from directly touching hot metal--I didn't wanted anything to melt.
Put a headlight on the cookie sheet, lens side up then stick it in the oven making sure that nothing in the oven is touching the lens. Bake it at around 220 for 12-15 minutes. When you pull it out and handle it, it's going to be hot so be careful. I used leather gloves while I worked with the light.
Use a chisel or something flat and pointy to get in the seal between the lens and housing and start prying. Be careful your tool doesn't slip and nick your lens! I started on the side that's under the grill, I think that's the easiest place to start. I pryed it apart enough to fit another chisel in there and worked my way across.
By now it has probably cooled off and could use a reheat. It took me 2 reheats before I finally got them apart. The bezels just pop out of the lenses.
Now you can sand and paint the bezels. I wet sanded with 400 grit until all the chrome was gone, rinsed them off really well, let them dry, wiped them down with alcohol, hung them up, then primed with 500* engine enamel and painted with semi-gloss black engine enamel (make sure whatever solvent you wipe them down with has completely evaporated before you paint, check the crevices!). I did a few light coats until everything was evenly covered.
While those are curing, get ready for some more fun! Now it's time to remove all the old glue that's still in the housing channel and around the edge of the lens. I found a chisel worked best to remove it from the housing channel. Working in small sections, pry the glue away from each side of the channel, then you can pull it out a section at a time.
My lenses were pristine so before I did anything with them I covered them in painter's tape and then at the spots nearest to where i'd be working, Gorilla Tape. GT is thick and would help absorb any slips of the tool while the masking tape would protect from general abrasions. I started using a chisel on the lens but could see that that wasn't going to work too well so I got out the Dremel
and a grinding stone on a flex hose attachment. This part is MESSY! I highly recommend wearing a respirator or at least a dust mask, and safety glasses. After dremmeling, I rinsed all of the glue powder off then removed the tape, it worked as planned and the lenses still looked perfect.
Clear out any debris from the housings and lay a strip of 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealant. It's a soft sticky rubber that will allow you to easily reopen the lights in the future if you ever need/want to. I used the 1/4" size and had to stretch it a little to fit it down in the channel. Now put the bezels back into the lenses. You could use a heat gun to heat up the rubber prior to reinstalling the lenses but using the oven again will give you the most uniform results. Put a housing back in the oven like before and once it's to temp, pull it out and gently press the lens onto the housing, making sure it's fully seated. If you think any spots didn't seal as well as they should, or if you just want to be extra cautious, stick some more Windo-Weld or hot glue around the seam. Reinstall the electronics, bulbs, and you should be good to go.
i got this from another thread, didnt have alll the tools like a dremel (used 2 flat tip screwdrivers and a knife.) and i set the temps to 235, makes it a little easier