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  #4225  
Old 03-12-2014, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by greenwayer View Post

It sounds like a Harley Davidson haha.
Oh video...lol
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  #4226  
Old 03-12-2014, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Strongjeff View Post
Oh video...lol

I would but I get the feeling it's a bad idea to run it like that.
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  #4227  
Old 03-12-2014, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenwayer View Post

I would but I get the feeling it's a bad idea to run it like that.
I wouldn't run it unless absolutely necessary.
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  #4228  
Old 03-12-2014, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strongjeff View Post
Doesn't sound too good tho does it?
Jeff, as you might know (I think your older than me so you should lol), this is how power balance tests were done, did a few like this back in high school. But now with the fantastic computer systems that old school trick is kinda obsolete.
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  #4229  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenwayer View Post
Jeff, as you might know (I think your older than me so you should lol), this is how power balance tests were done, did a few like this back in high school. But now with the fantastic computer systems that old school trick is kinda obsolete.
Yeah I knowz a little about it lol. The new way does all the cylinders at once vs the old ways one at a time
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  #4230  
Old 03-12-2014, 10:25 PM
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Installed my Monroe Load Levelers (58643) today, brought the tail up 1.75", leveled the body back out, and drastically improved the ride quality. Extremely happy with the upgrade. Was able to order from Amazon for $92, 2 day shipping, couldn't be more satisfied. Anybody out there swapped out their sway bar end links for extended ones to accommodate the lift? Recommendations? Wheels should be back from powder coater tomorrow or Friday so I hope to have that project wrapped up this weekend, also sanded and painted my center caps today to go with the new wheel finish.
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  #4231  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:53 PM
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Here are some pics from a puddle light and under hood light project I did. Used LED strips in cool white (120 LEDs/meter), 4 ft rope light mounting channels from Home Depot ($3.95/ea), clear all weather silicone, and some flat 2 pole connectors ($3/ea @ NAPA). I started by deciding on a length I wanted for each side and cutting my channels and led strips accordingly. I then soldered my connectors to the led strip and finished with heat shrink. Then I laid my led strips into the channels but left the led strip an inch or two short of the entire length of the rail(I'll explain momentarily) and applied a thin layer of silicone over the top. The reason for the slightly shorter led strip is so that when applying the silicone there can be a substantial amount to seal the ends. After the first layer was set up I put the second layer on and smoothed the surface. The silicone serves dual purposes in this application, the obvious first is the water proofing properties to protect the electronics, the second and less obvious result is light diffusion. The LEDs create a fairly focused light beam, which isn't terrible, I just wanted a softer focus and increased light coverage. Once the silicone had fully set up, I gave it about 12 hrs sitting in the house, then the assembled strips were ready for install. For their power source I just pulled from the footwell interior lights so they would act in tandem with my interior lights (on with unlock and fade off with lock). I ran my wiring through the factory firewall grommets on either side, then directly behind the fenders and down so they ended up just in front of the doors. I soldered the same flat 2 pole connectors to the end of the wire that is now hanging below the fender and finished with heat shrink. The final step in this long winded summary was attaching the assembled strips to my Jeep, I chose to mount to the inside of my rocker panels. I laid the channel against the mounting brackets for the panel, which are approx a 45* angle to ground from center of Jeep to sides, and just used cable ties to secure. (I typically avoid the use of zip ties as a general rule but for this occasion it was an acceptable solution.) All that's left now is to plug your two connectors together, repeat for the opposite side, and you've got some pretty sweet and functional under vehicle lighting. My total investment for this was about $25. 5M 600 total LED strip from eBay-- $9(There's a couple common options for the led reels, cool white, warm white, or any color you may desire, 300 and 600 total LEDs, I suggest the 600's for the extra light output but your call.) Plastic rope light channels from Home Depot-- $4/ea(I used 2 and couldn't find them @ Lowes in case you're wondering.) Flat 2 pole connectors-- $3/ea from NAPA(I used 2 packages in this project, there are 2 connectors per pkg.) The under hood light was pretty simple as well, I used one of the left over sections of the plastic channel and assembled another led strip same as before. Ran my wiring between the hood and under hood insulation down to the hinge, then followed the washer fluid tubing down and ran my wiring forward inside the drivers side fender. I purchased a four pack of standard ground break single pole hood pin switches off of eBay for $8. I installed my hood pin switch in an existing hole toward the front of the fender, almost parallel with the battery. I soldered and heat shrunk my connectors to my wiring, one for the pin switch blade connection and the other with an in line blade fuse and then directly to the battery. I attached the assembled led strip to the hood just in front of the insulation and centered on the hood. I drilled three small holes into the first layer of this particular hollow area of the hood, use caution not to go through too hard and hit your outer hood skin. The distance between the two outer holes is just slightly less than the overall length of my assembled light bar and the third hole is center of the other 2. I used cable tie saddles or mounting brackets and small plastic body retainers to attach to my small holes.(You can devise your own method to attach, this was how I chose to do it but could've gone as simple double sided tape etc.) Be sure to have your mounting system all figured out before you drill holes. I used another 2 pole connector set for this light bar as well, same as the aforementioned project. Lastly, be sure your hood has clearance to close and then start adjusting your pin switch so that it makes contact and travels far enough to break ground but not bottom out on travel when your hood is closed. Job done! I'm currently building a light bar to go under the back between my spare and hitch, same as before though so I'm sure you guys get the concept, no need to make this ungodly long post any longer. Sorry to take so much room, probably should've started a separate thread but I feel like this is the place we all read and participate most often. If you have questions or need tips that I may not have covered (probably impossible at this point!) feel free to post or PM. http://youtu.be/Iumn0OwhEHY
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  #4232  
Old 03-13-2014, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rkirk View Post
Here are some pics from a puddle light and under hood light project I did. Used LED strips in cool white (120 LEDs/meter), 4 ft rope light mounting channels from Home Depot ($3.95/ea), clear all weather silicone, and some flat 2 pole connectors ($3/ea @ NAPA). I started by deciding on a length I wanted for each side and cutting my channels and led strips accordingly. I then soldered my connectors to the led strip and finished with heat shrink. Then I laid my led strips into the channels but left the led strip an inch or two short of the entire length of the rail(I'll explain momentarily) and applied a thin layer of silicone over the top. The reason for the slightly shorter led strip is so that when applying the silicone there can be a substantial amount to seal the ends. After the first layer was set up I put the second layer on and smoothed the surface. The silicone serves dual purposes in this application, the obvious first is the water proofing properties to protect the electronics, the second and less obvious result is light diffusion. The LEDs create a fairly focused light beam, which isn't terrible, I just wanted a softer focus and increased light coverage. Once the silicone had fully set up, I gave it about 12 hrs sitting in the house, then the assembled strips were ready for install. For their power source I just pulled from the footwell interior lights so they would act in tandem with my interior lights (on with unlock and fade off with lock). I ran my wiring through the factory firewall grommets on either side, then directly behind the fenders and down so they ended up just in front of the doors. I soldered the same flat 2 pole connectors to the end of the wire that is now hanging below the fender and finished with heat shrink. The final step in this long winded summary was attaching the assembled strips to my Jeep, I chose to mount to the inside of my rocker panels. I laid the channel against the mounting brackets for the panel, which are approx a 45* angle to ground from center of Jeep to sides, and just used cable ties to secure. (I typically avoid the use of zip ties as a general rule but for this occasion it was an acceptable solution.) All that's left now is to plug your two connectors together, repeat for the opposite side, and you've got some pretty sweet and functional under vehicle lighting. My total investment for this was about $25. 5M 600 total LED strip from eBay-- $9(There's a couple common options for the led reels, cool white, warm white, or any color you may desire, 300 and 600 total LEDs, I suggest the 600's for the extra light output but your call.) Plastic rope light channels from Home Depot-- $4/ea(I used 2 and couldn't find them @ Lowes in case you're wondering.) Flat 2 pole connectors-- $3/ea from NAPA(I used 2 packages in this project, there are 2 connectors per pkg.) The under hood light was pretty simple as well, I used one of the left over sections of the plastic channel and assembled another led strip same as before. Ran my wiring between the hood and under hood insulation down to the hinge, then followed the washer fluid tubing down and ran my wiring forward inside the drivers side fender. I purchased a four pack of standard ground break single pole hood pin switches off of eBay for $8. I installed my hood pin switch in an existing hole toward the front of the fender, almost parallel with the battery. I soldered and heat shrunk my connectors to my wiring, one for the pin switch blade connection and the other with an in line blade fuse and then directly to the battery. I attached the assembled led strip to the hood just in front of the insulation and centered on the hood. I drilled three small holes into the first layer of this particular hollow area of the hood, use caution not to go through too hard and hit your outer hood skin. The distance between the two outer holes is just slightly less than the overall length of my assembled light bar and the third hole is center of the other 2. I used cable tie saddles or mounting brackets and small plastic body retainers to attach to my small holes.(You can devise your own method to attach, this was how I chose to do it but could've gone as simple double sided tape etc.) Be sure to have your mounting system all figured out before you drill holes. I used another 2 pole connector set for this light bar as well, same as the aforementioned project. Lastly, be sure your hood has clearance to close and then start adjusting your pin switch so that it makes contact and travels far enough to break ground but not bottom out on travel when your hood is closed. Job done! I'm currently building a light bar to go under the back between my spare and hitch, same as before though so I'm sure you guys get the concept, no need to make this ungodly long post any longer. Sorry to take so much room, probably should've started a separate thread but I feel like this is the place we all read and participate most often. If you have questions or need tips that I may not have covered (probably impossible at this point!) feel free to post or PM.
Make a thread in the how to/DIY section
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  #4233  
Old 03-13-2014, 04:23 AM
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  #4234  
Old 03-13-2014, 04:50 AM
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Re: What did you do to your WK today?

entered JOTM for this month, but I fear this is the last time I can enter till I can get fresh pictures. im running outta old ones lol
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  #4235  
Old 03-13-2014, 06:00 PM
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Does anyone paint the back of the side mirrors?
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  #4236  
Old 03-13-2014, 06:23 PM
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Does anyone paint the back of the side mirrors?
I've seen people do it especially if yours is chrome

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