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What did you do to your WK today?

1M views 11K replies 316 participants last post by  Antics08WK 
#1 ·
Another forum I am on does this, its great for the little nothings not worthy of a new thread. Its a confidence booster for your WK to let it know even the little things are important... oil change, de-badging, painting bits and pieces, repairs, the fact that you finally got to drive it...

Ill start:

- considering I made all of 2.1 hrs for the 6.5 hrs I was at work, I pulled the grand in, pulled the front end off and rerouted my HID relay harnesses for my fogs and headlamps. When I initially installed them I was slamming them in with no time to worry about wire routing or ballast mounting.
-Checked all my fluids to make sure all was still good considering the open heart surgery done to her a couple months back, all checked out good other than what looks like a slight coolant leak from my radiator end tank.
-dusted her exterior and shined the tires (she got a bath last night but it sprinkled on the way home)
-Installed a steel skid plate!
-Saturday I pulled off my steering wheel to resolve my squeeking clockspring and clicking turn signal cancelor cam, In a moment of NON-thinking I spritzed the clockspring with some spray lube, good news... it is quiet... bad news, I had a "check electric brake system" message in the evic and the traction control light on following. Quickly hooking up the witech I found I had an "internal scm failure". 2 days of driving later it went off and hasnt come back (phew)
 
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#6,016 ·
Ugh, went to change my oil last night and apparently when I took it to the shop last and they said that I had a slight oil leak at my drain bolt, they OVERTIGHTENED it. The bolt is now mostly stripped and will be a PITA to get off. Went ahead and took the plunge ordering a F-106N Fumoto valve and clear hosing to alleviate this issue once and for all.

And yes, before anyone whines about wheeling and Fumoto valves, I have the factory steel skid with the small access panel already and don't do any wheeling. Street Crawler here.
 
#6,030 ·
So wouldn't any intake tubing work? It doesn't have to be the srt?


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depends on what your trying to do. if your wanting something like Greenwayer's the you will need the srt tube. but for an intake any kit would work. heck I put money on dryer ducting being made into a cold air intake lol. ive seen things from pvc pipe to dryer ducting as an intake lol
 
#6,062 ·
Hypertec Max Energy 91oct tune. Hypertec claims 26hp and 26ftlbs. those numbers will be enhanced by mods

Jeff I want to show you some recognition on here! Always helping someone with something bro so I personally want to thank you bro! Good shit
Thanks bro, you know me, just an enthusiastic gear head lol
 
#6,070 ·
ethereal, I think that there is a possibility that the environment your in has an effect on why the tip didn't stay coated. Its constantly exposed to sand and hot (is it a dry heat or humid?). Also, the tip itself isn't really protected by the jeep very well. When I lived in fort Campbell, Kentucky, the climate does get hot (90's to lower 100's. july into august) but we are not exposed to the sand.

I have VHT ceramic header coating on my headers now for two years. Here are a couple of pics:






 
#6,071 · (Edited)
ethereal, I think that there is a possibility that the environment your in has an effect on why the tip didn't stay coated. Its constantly exposed to sand and hot (is it a dry heat or humid?). Also, the tip itself isn't really protected by the jeep very well. When I lived in fort Campbell, Kentucky, the climate does get hot (90's to lower 100's. july into august) but we are not exposed to the sand.
Hey Man, true the climate here is quite hot in comparison, during the summer it is very humid. I don't think the sand is an issue , don't really get those crazy stand storm you see in the movies :) or in the games like Spec Ops - the Line ..

Nice job on the headers, but need to compare like for like in this instance as the quality of the stainless in the headers is probably far superior to that used in a Borla exhaust tip. I still stand by that the grade of stainless steel (not to claim to be a metallurgist - but there is massive variety of grades), which , in this case, determines the outcome. I see references for sales material on exhaust tips state 'high grade' as 304, which resembles a UNS numbering system.

As mentioned, its worth a try painting if it aint going to cost much, just wanting to state the hassle I had with this over the past year to get it the way I wanted it to be :)

EDIT: just had an interesting read in the difference between T304 and T409 in Stainless steel quality, If I had not discarded the old tip would have tested it with a magnet to see if it is a T409, I am betting on that being true:
"The difference between T-304 “Pro Series” and T-409 “XP Series” is quite simple. T-304 is the highest grade of stainless steel that can be used an any exhaust system. It is non-ferrous, which means it does not contain iron. As we all know iron rusts. Instead, T-304 has a higher concentration of chromium and nickel. T-304 is basically impervious to corrosion. A good way to test the grade of a stainless steel is to place a magnet up against it. If it doesn’t stick to the metal it is non-ferrous. If it sticks it has some degree of iron in it and is prone to rusting. T-304 is harder than T-409 and consequently is more difficult to form on the mandrel bending machines. T-304 is the specified grade of stainless steel for most food service, pharmaceutical, hospital, and medical facilities, as well as the grade of choice for most race car exhaust systems. As you might have guessed by now, T-409 does have some degree of iron in it. It is a better grade of stainless steel than the stainless steel used in most OEM exhaust systems (if equipped), but it will turn brown/gray and is prone to getting rust spots over time. This is especially true if placed in service in Northern climates where salt is used on the roads during the Winter months. If you are looking for an exhaust system that will withstand the test of time, we strongly recommend that you consider the Pro-Series T-304 exhaust system." --thedieselstop
 
#6,079 ·
I got the 'service tpm system' with Dorman sensors 433MHz, contacted Dorman and they told me the export model don't support 'clonable' ones, despite trying to program these with the scan tool at the dealer$... Just a word of warning to export guys, stick to oem sensors ...


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#6,080 ·
I got the 'service tpm system' with Dorman sensors 433MHz, contacted Dorman and they told me the export model don't support 'clonable' ones, despite trying to program these with the scan tool at the dealer$... Just a word of warning to export guys, stick to oem sensors ...


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Agreed, export models use a different freq then the U.S. spec ones
 
#6,095 ·
Sad to say I lost badly on my first race with the jeep. A guy in a matte black corvette pulled up and wanted to race. I said sure thinking it would be pretty close. Before I knew it he was way ahead of me at the next light he told me it was a 7.2L twin turbo. No wonder...


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#6,096 ·
Sad to say I lost badly on my first race with the jeep. A guy in a matte black corvette pulled up and wanted to race. I said sure thinking it would be pretty close. Before I knew it he was way ahead of me at the next light he told me it was a 7.2L twin turbo. No wonder...


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this and power to weight bro lol...
 
#6,097 ·
So a little off topic but I drove my cousins 2014 corolla and holy shit the paddle shifter respond so well it was like the BMW 135i. I was wondering if that was just the trans response or something with having the paddle shifters. It makes me wanna find some way to get them on my hemi


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#6,131 ·
So what I found idk if it means they won't bolt up but they I guess don't use the same transfer case because the NAG1 has no 4 lo. I looked up to see if we could just swap the cases and no where I looked have me a straight answer and since I'm not as mechanically inclined as I like to think I am I don't fully understand everything I read so I could be 100% wrong


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#6,132 ·
So what I found idk if it means they won't bolt up but they I guess don't use the same transfer case because the NAG1 has no 4 lo. I looked up to see if we could just swap the cases and no where I looked have me a straight answer and since I'm not as mechanically inclined as I like to think I am I don't fully understand everything I read so I could be 100% wrong


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trans has nothing to do with 4lo/4hi. that's all in the transfer case bro
 
#6,145 ·
dont worry bro I knew what you meant. that why earlier I mentioned all the parts that need to come out including the t-case. also that you'd need a little longer drive shaft
 
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