- Remove electrical connector (5) at top of EGR valve solenoid.
- Remove tube mounting bolt (1) at intake manifold.
- Remove two bolts (4) connecting EGR tube (1) to valve assembly.
- Remove gasket located between EGR tube flange and EGR valve assembly.
- Remove two EGR valve mounting bolts (5).
- Separate valve assembly (3) from engine.
- Remove and discard metal gasket located between cylinder head and valve assembly.
You could do it... its a quality of life... for your family, question
If you have a halfway decent set of tools, I trust that with how you describe yourself that you could do it, BUT, I dont want to be to blame for a divorce when the tools start hitting the back wall in the garage
Alldata "book time" is .7hr NOT warranty, so this shows with the right tools that it is not a horrible job but this could be a couple hour finger cramping job with crappy tools.
I will say, a way you can deturmine if this could be causing your issue (as this was because an issue right? kinda half way preventative half way not perfect idle iirc?). If it is to hopefully resolve an issue, you can loosen the 8mm bolts holding the tube on the egr valve enough to pull the tube out of the intake manifold, cap the large hole in the manifold and start it and see how she runs. If it fixes it then replace the valve... if nothing changes save your money.
A deturmination you can also use (which with a slight leak would not be super helpful), anyway, if you start your vehicle, allow it to idle up to operating temperature, the egr tube should NOT be hot, it may be warm due to being bolted to the egr and around a hot motor, but if it scalds your fingers it is funneling exhaust gasses through the tube when it should not be (should not introduce EG at idle).