So i posted up in the DIY/Tech section and no help there... i was wondering if anyone had a write up or details on how to replace it. i recently replaced my TPS and now after reading some other post concerning the EGRs in the hemis and the symptoms associated with them going bad i am going to go ahead and replace it. she has 68k on her.
This may be a stupid question, but I don't know much about cars outside of electronics. I purchased a new EGR for my 4.7 and realize it's in a tight spot. I've also read all the threads about the hemi and how you possibly have to move the alternator to get it out etc.
Since the EGR is in a different spot on my engine vs. the hemi, does that mean I won't have to worry about the alternator/removal etc.?
I'm sure i can figure out how to take something out and put a new one in the same way. I understand it may not be easy, but the mechanics in my area aren't as generous on labor charges as others have mentioned. At the same time dealing with other parts and ultimately a huge process is probably not something I'd be able to handle.
Nope, the EGR on a 4.7l is on the back of the bank 1 cylinder head (driver side) so no accessories are in the way. Basically with air tools its decently simple, there is not alot of space for ratchet arc to do with hand tools let alone cheap ratchet arc (25 degrees per tooth
You could do it... its a quality of life... for your family, question
If you have a halfway decent set of tools, I trust that with how you describe yourself that you could do it, BUT, I dont want to be to blame for a divorce when the tools start hitting the back wall in the garage
Alldata "book time" is .7hr NOT warranty, so this shows with the right tools that it is not a horrible job but this could be a couple hour finger cramping job with crappy tools.
I will say, a way you can deturmine if this could be causing your issue (as this was because an issue right? kinda half way preventative half way not perfect idle iirc?). If it is to hopefully resolve an issue, you can loosen the 8mm bolts holding the tube on the egr valve enough to pull the tube out of the intake manifold, cap the large hole in the manifold and start it and see how she runs. If it fixes it then replace the valve... if nothing changes save your money.
A deturmination you can also use (which with a slight leak would not be super helpful), anyway, if you start your vehicle, allow it to idle up to operating temperature, the egr tube should NOT be hot, it may be warm due to being bolted to the egr and around a hot motor, but if it scalds your fingers it is funneling exhaust gasses through the tube when it should not be (should not introduce EG at idle).
Thanks for the advice. My main reason for wanting to change is to hopefully eliminate the random stallouts I am experiencing. I've change the spark plugs, PCV valve and done the TPS wiggle. I'll give the install a go, and hopefully this will be the solution.
I'm getting ready to attempt to change the EGR. It doesn't look too bad actually. Just having a little trouble getting started. Where is the bolt referenced in the first step 2 as mentioned above?
dont worry about it... I think its referencing that empty bolt hole to the left of the pipe in your picture... I think some have a plate there around the tube that mounts there, in your case it just rests in the manifold using its lower mount to retain the pipe in its position.
Did this earlier today. Not too bad. To put it in perspective; I had a harder time getting the 8th spark plug out.
The directions above were helpful and simple to follow. I would say to remove the tube before you go messing with the plug.
Make sure you have a 1/4" ratchet/sockets, as they're the only ones small enough to remove the bolts for the EGR valve tube.
You will also need an extension to remove the mounting bolts. If you have a quality set of sockets, you should be set. Overall it took me about an hour. Haven't driven the Jeep yet to see the effects.
Big thanks to Andrew for the instructions and clarification.
sorry to be a pain but, do i have to worry about ripping out that blue gasket pictured in the 5.7 EGR install thread?
parts take about 2 weeks to arrive here & ide rather know beforehand if i need this than have the GC sitting cuz i ripped the part
Granted, I did this some time ago, but I don't recall having to rip out any gaskets. The 4.7 and 5.7 EGRs are in different locations. I think you should be OK. Everything was plug and play.
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