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Old 08-09-2011, 03:32 PM
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4.7 egr

So i posted up in the DIY/Tech section and no help there... i was wondering if anyone had a write up or details on how to replace it. i recently replaced my TPS and now after reading some other post concerning the EGRs in the hemis and the symptoms associated with them going bad i am going to go ahead and replace it. she has 68k on her.
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:40 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

it is a pain in the ass to replace on the 4.7 i had my mechanic do it and he charged 3/4 of an hour labor. well worth it in my opinion......
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:44 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

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Originally Posted by SvenskaJeepGuy View Post
it is a pain in the ass to replace on the 4.7 i had my mechanic do it and he charged 3/4 of an hour labor. well worth it in my opinion......
dealer said $160 parts and labor
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:45 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

Buy the part off RockAuto and see how much they would install it for. Or find some other local shop.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:17 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

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dealer said $160 parts and labor
i got mine for like $30 from advance auto and had my local mechanic do it. he is $30 less per hour than the dealer.
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:27 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

This may be a stupid question, but I don't know much about cars outside of electronics. I purchased a new EGR for my 4.7 and realize it's in a tight spot. I've also read all the threads about the hemi and how you possibly have to move the alternator to get it out etc.

Since the EGR is in a different spot on my engine vs. the hemi, does that mean I won't have to worry about the alternator/removal etc.?

I'm sure i can figure out how to take something out and put a new one in the same way. I understand it may not be easy, but the mechanics in my area aren't as generous on labor charges as others have mentioned. At the same time dealing with other parts and ultimately a huge process is probably not something I'd be able to handle.

Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:05 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

Nope, the EGR on a 4.7l is on the back of the bank 1 cylinder head (driver side) so no accessories are in the way. Basically with air tools its decently simple, there is not alot of space for ratchet arc to do with hand tools let alone cheap ratchet arc (25 degrees per tooth
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:20 AM
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So just suck it up and pay the mechanic is what you're saying?

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Old 09-05-2011, 01:44 AM
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Re: 4.7 egr

Quote:
  1. Remove electrical connector (5) at top of EGR valve solenoid.
  2. Remove tube mounting bolt (1) at intake manifold.
  1. Remove two bolts (4) connecting EGR tube (1) to valve assembly.
  2. Remove gasket located between EGR tube flange and EGR valve assembly.
  3. Remove two EGR valve mounting bolts (5).
  4. Separate valve assembly (3) from engine.
  5. Remove and discard metal gasket located between cylinder head and valve assembly.
You could do it... its a quality of life... for your family, question

If you have a halfway decent set of tools, I trust that with how you describe yourself that you could do it, BUT, I dont want to be to blame for a divorce when the tools start hitting the back wall in the garage

Alldata "book time" is .7hr NOT warranty, so this shows with the right tools that it is not a horrible job but this could be a couple hour finger cramping job with crappy tools.

I will say, a way you can deturmine if this could be causing your issue (as this was because an issue right? kinda half way preventative half way not perfect idle iirc?). If it is to hopefully resolve an issue, you can loosen the 8mm bolts holding the tube on the egr valve enough to pull the tube out of the intake manifold, cap the large hole in the manifold and start it and see how she runs. If it fixes it then replace the valve... if nothing changes save your money.

A deturmination you can also use (which with a slight leak would not be super helpful), anyway, if you start your vehicle, allow it to idle up to operating temperature, the egr tube should NOT be hot, it may be warm due to being bolted to the egr and around a hot motor, but if it scalds your fingers it is funneling exhaust gasses through the tube when it should not be (should not introduce EG at idle).
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:11 PM
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Re: 4.7 egr

Thanks for the advice. My main reason for wanting to change is to hopefully eliminate the random stallouts I am experiencing. I've change the spark plugs, PCV valve and done the TPS wiggle. I'll give the install a go, and hopefully this will be the solution.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:03 AM
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I'm getting ready to attempt to change the EGR. It doesn't look too bad actually. Just having a little trouble getting started. Where is the bolt referenced in the first step 2 as mentioned above?

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Old 09-10-2011, 11:24 AM
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Re: 4.7 egr

dont worry about it... I think its referencing that empty bolt hole to the left of the pipe in your picture... I think some have a plate there around the tube that mounts there, in your case it just rests in the manifold using its lower mount to retain the pipe in its position.
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