Ok, I think we had this on my moms jeep turned out to be a $20 tube that goes on this module under the hood. Its mainly for emissions if I remember correctly.
Well If you can wait a bit I can try an get you pics of what to look at and you could prob fix it yourself. Ours was very easy to spot. Then you can save some money and just pick up the replacement part.
Ok, Took forever to find a picture of what I was trying to show you. Almost ran out to the parking lot to take one for ya. but anyways Look at everything connected to the evap canister circled in orange. The connections I had problems with are circled in orange also. It was cracked on the rubber "boot". Check both sides of the tube. Hopefully this helps!
Checked those, and they appear to be fine. The mechanic said he is going to do smoke test type thing, and the smoke should show the leak.
ALSO how Chrysler attached the evap canister to the fuse box... is with a foam like material. ripped right off! haha. Ill have to zip-tie it down later.. Thanks for the info tho!
Star, all I actually had to do was take off the battery cables, wait 15mins, then put them back on to reset everything and it went off. But I also check those evap hoses and unplugged and then plugged back in as well.
Honestly, not to suggest you throw parts, but it seems more common at least in what I do that the ESIM switch is the failure point, you will generate a evap leak code from a failed (failing) ESIM switch when there is actually no leak at all this is verified with the EELD flow test. That said, ANY evap system that has ANY rubber is the second place to check, the first being the gas cap for proper installation and no obvious seal or internal damage. FWIW, many new systems are going to hard tubes and quick disconnects and unless there was an underbody impact those really dont fail like the rubber does.
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