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Old 07-20-2011, 01:35 PM
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mopar or champion plugs

im just looking for opinons on which one to buy,is the champion 570 a better or equal plug?they are much cheaper then the stealer plugs but i want the best,also ive read alot of different gaps,is it .045?and is dielectric grease a must,im trying to get enough b**ls to do this project this weekend
p.s.i cant find the thread on changing the plugs,ive seen it before where a member went step by step on the process as well as the tools needed
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:42 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

I've heard always go with the factory - Champion 570's. I just did them and didnt have an issue (2hrs total). WIth us having HEMI's - they are 16 plugs total. I didn't use the grease. Guess I'll find out if that was a good idea or not. And yes, they were gapped to .045, checked them all and they seemed to be pre-gapped, for the most part.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:54 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

thanks alot,much appreciated,so are the champions different then stockers?
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:57 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

Stock plugs are Champions. if you buy them at the dealer you get Champions
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:15 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

Yeah, just switched my old OEM 570's for new 570's from Auto Zone for $2.79 a piece. No use in dropping major cash on plugs that we're supposed to change every 30K. They're aluminum heads, so remove the plugs while the engine is cold. I was told to not use grease unless you are re-using the plugs. I stole somebody's idea and used a short length of vinyl tubing to get the plugs started on those deep heads and to make sure they weren't getting cross threaded. Used every combo possible with all of my ratchet extensions and a swivel joint and just used a regular deep socket for the install, because my spark plug socket likes to hang onto the plug a little too well. Double check the .045 gap and torque 12-14 ft lbs. I gained like 3MPGs!
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:29 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

Also, if you have an air compressor before you pull the plug blow it out so no loose debris falls in after you pull the plug.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:12 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep5.7 View Post
....so are the champions different then stockers?
Same. Have run 2 sets of MOPAR and one set of Champion 570's. No difference in performance. Dealer charges ~$4 per plug and Champions are ~$2 qt the auto stores. (See link below.)

Gap can be 0.041", 0.043", or 0.045" depending where you look. The '08 WK owners manual calls for 0.041"; wkjeeps ( http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_sparkplugs.htm ) calls for 0.045". Since it is in the middle of the quoted values, I used 0.043".

Here's a quickie :
1. Need dielectric grease to dab on the inside of the boots when re-installing. I also put a small dab on each electrical connector to the coils. Get this stuff where you buy your plugs. About $3 for small tube.
2. New spark plugs come with anti-seize, so none is necessary.
3. Get a good torque wrench that can read 10-15 ft-lbs. Sears has one for ~$120 that goes on sale for $90. Think it is called Digitork, #44596.
4. Sears also sells a good 3-piece captive-extension wobble-end spark plug socket set, K-D Kit No. 41740. Has magnet and foam inside sockets. Makes it much easier. About $36 for the set.
5. Need 1/4" drive sockets with extensions to pull the 2 @ hexhead capscrews holding on the coils. Think they are 10mm if memory serves. Do not take out all the way, so they stay captive in the coil body. [Cover the joint in the fender well where to hood fits along the side, so your bolts and 1/4" drive sockets do not go down the gap. Ask me how I know....] 2 coils have a harness cover that unclips at the bottom. Not a big deal. you can even leave them on to remove coils (#5 & 6, I think).
6. Remove the electrical plug before pulling coils. It clips on side, so go easy on the plastic keeper when removing.
7. Check gap on each new plug before installing. I used a Bosch gauge that has a 0.043" diameter wire feeler. Round is best.
8. Hand-thread new plug with the socket/extension (no rachet) until bottomed, then torque to 12-14 ft-lbs.
9. Re-install the coil. Reconnect coil leads.
10. Verify that you have not accidentally dislodged the emissions vent and crankcase makeup air hoses (driver's side front of intake manifold) and the PCV hose (passenger's side front of intake manifold).

You can now stop puckering with your grommet; it's done.

Here's the optional part: I tagged each plug as it came out (Cyl #1F, 1R, 2F, 2R, etc) with masking tape. Was able to go back and "read" each plug afterward and check its gap when finished. Just me being anal. Reading spark plugs can be a good indicator of cylinder and engine condition.

Enjoy your HEMI.....
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:50 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

wow thanks walt,very informative,im gonna tackle it sunday,thank you
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:21 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

as said above, the mopar plugs are champions
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:24 AM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

gap depends on the year hemi. It changed 3 times over the years so consult the wkjeeps.com info or your owner's manual. Make sure to use anti-seize as the head is a different material from the plug threads.
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:25 AM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahkneefive View Post
gap depends on the year hemi. It changed 3 times over the years so consult the wkjeeps.com info or your owner's manual. Make sure to use anti-seize as the head is a different material from the plug threads.

Spark plugs come with a thin layer of anti sieze from the factory. so you do not need to put this on the threads.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:00 PM
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Re: mopar or champion plugs

thanks everyone ill check for anti-seize,should i disconnect the negative
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