Originally Posted by jeep5.7
....so are the champions different then stockers?
Same. Have run 2 sets of MOPAR and one set of Champion 570's. No difference in performance. Dealer charges ~$4 per plug and Champions are ~$2 qt the auto stores. (See link below.)
Gap can be 0.041", 0.043", or 0.045" depending where you look. The '08 WK owners manual calls for 0.041"; wkjeeps ( http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_sparkplugs.htm
) calls for 0.045". Since it is in the middle of the quoted values, I used 0.043".
Here's a quickie :
1. Need dielectric grease to dab on the inside of the boots when re-installing. I also put a small dab on each electrical connector to the coils. Get this stuff where you buy your plugs. About $3 for small tube.
2. New spark plugs come with anti-seize, so none is necessary.
3. Get a good torque wrench that can read 10-15 ft-lbs. Sears has one for ~$120 that goes on sale for $90. Think it is called Digitork, #44596.
4. Sears also sells a good 3-piece captive-extension wobble-end spark plug socket set, K-D Kit No. 41740. Has magnet and foam inside sockets. Makes it much
easier. About $36 for the set.
5. Need 1/4" drive sockets with extensions to pull the 2 @ hexhead capscrews holding on the coils. Think they are 10mm if memory serves. Do not take out all the way, so they stay captive in the coil body. [Cover the joint in the fender well where to hood fits along the side, so your bolts and 1/4" drive sockets do not go down the gap. Ask me how I know....] 2 coils have a harness cover that unclips at the bottom. Not a big deal. you can even leave them on to remove coils (#5 & 6, I think).
6. Remove the electrical plug before pulling coils. It clips on side, so go easy on the plastic keeper when removing.
7. Check gap on each new plug before installing. I used a Bosch gauge that has a 0.043" diameter wire feeler. Round is best.
8. Hand-thread new plug with the socket/extension (no rachet) until bottomed, then torque to 12-14 ft-lbs.
9. Re-install the coil. Reconnect coil leads.
10. Verify that you have not accidentally dislodged the emissions vent and crankcase makeup air hoses (driver's side front of intake manifold) and the PCV hose (passenger's side front of intake manifold).
You can now stop puckering with your grommet; it's done.
Here's the optional part: I tagged each plug as it came out (Cyl #1F, 1R, 2F, 2R, etc) with masking tape. Was able to go back and "read" each plug afterward and check its gap when finished. Just me being anal. Reading spark plugs can be a good indicator of cylinder and engine condition.
Enjoy your HEMI.....