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  #13  
Old 12-30-2012, 08:59 PM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

So I had a couple minutes today to replace the UCA ball joint nut on the drivers side today. I pulled the old cross-threaded one off and tossed it. Then I ran a 12 x 1.5 die up and down the stud twice to clean the threads and put the new nut on. At first I was worried that I was going to overtighten this side too, but finally the torque wrench clicked. Then I realized that I did not need my 8mm wrench to hold the ball joint from twisting... On the otherside when I had overtightened the nut, the ball joint was rotating, which leads me to think I did not pull the conical shaft deeper into the knuckle, but rather when I exceeded the torque limit, it was simply rotating in the knuckle. So I think it is unlikely that I have don't any serious damage to the knuckle or ball joint. I think I will replace that nut again for good measure (just incase the soft steel threads are stretched), but otherwise I am feeling much better about this whole affair. I also checked the rear link nuts and they are holding tight at 65 lbs. So overall I'd say I"m done at this point.

Future plans: I am currently only running the rear srt sway bar, as many have insisted that the front is less important. I have begun to notice a lot weight being shifted to the outer front wheel while cornering. I haven't forced it into understeer, but that's what I believe would happen if I pushed it too hard. I believe the front srt sway bar is the correct solution, so as soon as I can afford it, that's my next mod.

As for the rear sway bar, it has reducedn(not eliminated) the rear butt wiggle in cornering, but I think the srt coils and srt bilsteins are really doing 90% of the work right now in terms of improvement to the ride and handling.
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  #14  
Old 12-31-2012, 09:33 AM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobharly View Post
So I had a couple minutes today to replace the UCA ball joint nut on the drivers side today. I pulled the old cross-threaded one off and tossed it. Then I ran a 12 x 1.5 die up and down the stud twice to clean the threads and put the new nut on. At first I was worried that I was going to overtighten this side too, but finally the torque wrench clicked. Then I realized that I did not need my 8mm wrench to hold the ball joint from twisting... On the otherside when I had overtightened the nut, the ball joint was rotating, which leads me to think I did not pull the conical shaft deeper into the knuckle, but rather when I exceeded the torque limit, it was simply rotating in the knuckle. So I think it is unlikely that I have don't any serious damage to the knuckle or ball joint. I think I will replace that nut again for good measure (just incase the soft steel threads are stretched), but otherwise I am feeling much better about this whole affair. I also checked the rear link nuts and they are holding tight at 65 lbs. So overall I'd say I"m done at this point.

Future plans: I am currently only running the rear srt sway bar, as many have insisted that the front is less important. I have begun to notice a lot weight being shifted to the outer front wheel while cornering. I haven't forced it into understeer, but that's what I believe would happen if I pushed it too hard. I believe the front srt sway bar is the correct solution, so as soon as I can afford it, that's my next mod.

As for the rear sway bar, it has reducedn(not eliminated) the rear butt wiggle in cornering, but I think the srt coils and srt bilsteins are really doing 90% of the work right now in terms of improvement to the ride and handling.
have you looked into running a set of bwoody swaybar links to help that swaybar out?
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2012, 10:38 AM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

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Originally Posted by paroxysym View Post
have you looked into running a set of bwoody swaybar links to help that swaybar out?
I have, however I would like to install the srt bar first and then look into getting the bwoody's second. This way I can evaluate each piece separately.
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  #16  
Old 07-14-2013, 01:15 AM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

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Originally Posted by bobharly View Post

Future plans: I am currently only running the rear srt sway bar, as many have insisted that the front is less important. I have begun to notice a lot weight being shifted to the outer front wheel while cornering. I haven't forced it into understeer, but that's what I believe would happen if I pushed it too hard. I believe the front srt sway bar is the correct solution, so as soon as I can afford it, that's my next mod.

As for the rear sway bar, it has reducedn(not eliminated) the rear butt wiggle in cornering, but I think the srt coils and srt bilsteins are really doing 90% of the work right now in terms of improvement to the ride and handling.
UPDATE TIME:

Step 6: Decide to finish the job. Declare that it's your birthday and buy the parts you need. For this job, new sway links (Front and Rear, from Quadratec) and a SRT front bar.

Step 7: Assume that if you order everything on the same day it will all arrive together. Reality is that most online vendors do not always have the stock on hand, and place an order to ship to you from the manufacturer or wholesaler. So my rear links arrived first.

Step 8: Drop the kids off with grandma, claiming you need to clean to house. Go home and jack up the Jeep, remove the rear wheels and install the new rear links. The links I got were like $55 each, from quadratech, and are OE replacement for the SRT rear links. Install was relatively easy, but one link came with the link installed backwards on the bracket. Easy enough fix, which reminded me to torque the link to the bracket too! Almost forgot that step... Went for a test drive and rear end felt great. The old links with 70K miles on them were doing nothing to take advantage of the rear srt swaybar. Front end now feels loose in comparison, but parts are on the way.

Step 9: Go camping. No really, had a great time.

Step 10: Parts arrived while I was gone. Box was smashed to heck, with a note from my sister, "Package was like this when I came by. I did not do this." Luckily, front SRT bar is a giant chunk of metal, so nothing broken. Next day, install parts (including new links for front, also OE replacement) and go for a test drive. The drive was... smooth and predictable. No significant sway over bumps or intersections and cornering was as it should be.

Final VERDICT: Front and Rear Sway bars, along with new links are all needed to finish the job. Just doing the front or rear is only half effective. And reusing old links is just a waste of time and money. It does no good to install a new sway bar and attach it to a worn out link. I went with the OE replacements, as rubber bushings are little softer and more forgiving of bumps. It was the right decision for me and provided noticeable improvement.

Final OPINION: To turn the jeep into a dedicated corner carver, srt aftermarket coils and end links, like bwoody's for example, are a must. I also feel that 20 inch rims with 45 series tires are needed too. Even with my SRT OEM coils, sway bars and new links, although the handling is now MUCH BETTER, it is still a 4500 lb beast that must be driven with caution when cornering. I am amazed at what I can do, but at the same time I can feel the weight of the vehicle waiting for me to make a mistake. It is fun having a sporty SUV,which is why I love it, but a SUV is not a sports car.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:02 AM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

Good post bro, and I agree it was the best choice to use stock end links. I had BWoodys and took them off after a few months, as they are just too rough riding and as you point out, they need lubing every couple of months to keep the squeeks away.
There is also another alternative to achieve great handling other than installing lowering springs / Bilstiens with the big wheels and tires. Those will work, but they all compromise off roading, and combined, make for a rough ride on other than smooth roads, which are rare in the rust belt. Big wheels also add a great deal of unsprung weight to the rotating assembly and suspension, which is the enemy. Koni FSD's are the answer if you do not want to a lowered JEEP. They are FAR superior to Bilstien HDs; really no comparison. The handling is simply outstanding using (new) stock WK springs, 17 in. wheels, and the front and rear SRT bars. It flies through high speed corners now with total control, remains level, and brakes much better too.... nothing at all like the rough riding, out of control bouncy feeling it had with Bilstiens installed and bumps are absorbed with the FSD's instead of crashed into and bounced over.
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  #18  
Old 07-15-2013, 10:22 AM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

I'm running SRT bilsteins (top of my very first post). My ride is great. Also I like the lowered look, which I believe from reading your dedicated post on the Koni FSD's they raise the ride height and cost around $1000 for a complete set.

As for wheels, I am aware of the principles of unsprung weight, however my 18" rims run a 55 series tire which under hard cornering can suffer sidewall flex and create a "rolling" or "sliding" sensation. Now with my sway bar upgrades, this issue has been reduced. However the classic debate is weight vs. profile. If money is no options, custom forged racing wheels would be cool, but that's not an option for me. My best compromise would be a set of 18" rims with 9" width to support the sidewalls better, however there are only two or three options out there that are 8.5" wide, and none really compliment the look of the jeep or have the correct offset. In 20" rims, which would run 45 series tire (a better choice for cornering and road feel, but do weigh more), there are lots of options that fit the jeep well both in appearance and offset, especially the reproduction SRT and Viper rims.

So given my budget limitations, the market has dictated my best options at this point. So maybe in two years when my current tires wear out I might be looking into new rims.
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:54 PM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

UPDATE: Front and rear srt sway bar, front and rear have really balanced the handling. After a 1000 miles I really see the difference. With the rear bar only, there was some noticeable improvement, but the front tires had a tendency to "roll" under the strain of hard cornering. With the Front bar installed (and new links front and rear), you don't feel it at first, but you begin to notice that the front tires are no longer straining to corner and your cornering is smoother and much more controlled at the same speeds. I am impressed. In fact, I'm not sure I even need (want?) 20" rims. A 45 series tire might give a more positive feel, but with the suspension now set up I don't think it will give me anymore grip.
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:49 PM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

Nice thread!! Im also in the process to GOING LOW!!!Quick question,did the srt8 rear links are direct fit or you need the mounting bracket?Cause i think they are shorter right?
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:13 PM
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Re: FAQ's and my experience lowering my WK

When you buy srt links they come with the bracket. Just remember to torque the link to the bracket; they come loose. And If you go aftermarket with the crown automotive links at quadratec (like I did), one of my links came mounted backwards so you'll have to flip it around, but that's easy.

Crown Automotive 5290769AC - Driver Side Rear Sway Bar Link for 05-10 Jeep® Grand Cherokee WK with SDX Heavy Duty Suspension - Quadratec
Crown Automotive 5290768AC - Passenger Side Rear Sway Bar Link for 05-10 Jeep® Grand Cherokee WK with SDX Heavy Duty Suspension - Quadratec

Or if you want OEM Mopar

Rear SRT8 Sway Bar Links

And if you want to go performance and get the bwoody links, those do not come with a bracket so you will want to order the wk links (non-srt)

BWoody Performance Products

Just remember that polyurethane need lubrication (non petroleum too!), if you get the bwoody's.

Also, there are other vendors out there who offer these a tad cheaper, but I listed these site because I have had good customer support from them.

Now for the technical stuff: When you mount the srt bracket, the lower subframe bolt is actually a long bolt that goes through the subframe and supports the upper control arm for the rear suspension. Feel around in there and use an extra 18mm wrench to keep that bolt from rotating when you loosen and tighten it. I was surprised at first, but quickly figured it out.
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