Re: Installing Sway Bar end links
I would take the lower bolts (all 18mm) out and re-install them on level ground before lifting the front or taking the tires off. It eliminates the bind on the swaybar and the possibility of crossthreading the lower control arm. After those are out, do whatever because the load is completely off the swaybar. If you can find a 12-point 6mm box wrench, it will help with the upper end of the link. The nuts on those things are super tight until the end of the bolt. I happened to have one and it keeps the bolt from free spinning in the link when turning the nuts. I was afraid of rounding off the hex end with a crescent or open end wrench. You'll see what I'm talking about. But now that I think of it, if you are replacing them, you can trash the end with some Channel Locks or Vice Grips because they stay with the links. As long as you can get them off without busting out the die grinder or hacksaw on those upper bolts. Another thing on the install. If possible, don't completely torque down any of the bolts, upper or lower, until the wheels are back on and the WK is on the ground at it's normal stance. This will allow the proper pre-load on the upper bushings. I say "if possible" because I have a Slinky for a spine and I can twist around under my Jeeps pretty good. I feel confident in supplying this classified information because I just took mine out two days ago for a trail run and put them back in that evening.
2005 Inferno Red 5.7 Hemi Limited QDII - Rock Krawler X-Factor - OME N190 Rear Shocks - BF Goodrich All-Terrain 265/70/17E - 08-10 Front Fascia Conversion - Saguaro 4XComponents Boulder Grill Insert - AEM Brute Force CAI - Billet Technology Catch Can