Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Monroe load levelers

35K views 87 replies 19 participants last post by  paroxysym 
#1 ·
part number 58643 or 58646 for the load levelers?
 
#41 · (Edited)
i think the f150 643 MLLs will give you rake on top of the lift still.. you should be level with a RC lift if you have a 4.7 or 5.7L ...if you have a 3.7, youre front end probably looks a tad higher.. the LLs will help to level it, but i bet you still end up getting a half inch of rake due to the fact that they typically boost the rear 1-1.5". if you find rake to be okay, then youll be good.. if you wanna be even all around, and your front end is too low looking afterwards, just throw a strut spacer up front for an extra half inch.

either way youre good. but you may end up wanting a strut spacer set.
 
#42 ·
I have te 3.7 with RC lift and the taller LL's and that is what it looks like. I have the stock struts on the front still.
 
#44 ·
un bolt the stock shock, then in front of the tire there is a place on the frame you can put the jack. jack the body up untill you have enough room to bolt in the bottom bolt. bolt the top of the shock first though.
 
#48 · (Edited)
I just installed the 646's today and i love them... got them from Advance Auto for $83 + tax (local store pickup and used a $40 off code: retmenot124) cannot beat that deal anywhere. Even the parts counter guy couldnt believe the money i saved just by buying them online first.

Compared to the Bilsteins i definitly gained about 1/2"-3/4". The difference is noticeable both in height and handling. Now my rig doesnt look like it has a sagging ass anymore and is sitting nice and purdy :D

The real test will be when i load up my cargo carrier, 24" snowblower and 10 gallons of gas. All i need is some snow now!!
 
#49 · (Edited)
I finally got to putting my 646's on today thanks for the heads up guys. Even with the regular springs, struts, and shocks being pretty new the rear was hitting the snubbers when loaded. The 646's definitely snugged her up nicely, and I gained about 2 inches. I just went to my sons apartment, and put five good size guys ( around 1,200 lb. ) in the back. It went down to where it normally sits when unloaded stock, and there was no bottoming. Like Ant said it even handles better Jeep Garage Rocks!!!
 
#53 ·
I think youre right bax.
I could be wrong but my logic would be that he got about 2" of lift due to not already having BB and installing the 643's. (please comfirm this with us,stashtogo) if you have a BB and install the 643's the normal response if that you typically gain about 1.25" on top of a BB.. so if you were stock and installed them I would guess 2" makes sense. the 646's on the other hand I would guess you could get like .75" of a lift from with a BB in and maybe 1.5" without.. so perhaps the shocks were a bit blown too like you've stated, bax.

Ant, can you please post a stance pic of your WK from the side with the 646's in?
it would really help me decide on 646's,643's or Bilsteins in the rear to pair with Bilsteins up front. Thanks.
 
#60 ·
I think youre right bax.
I could be wrong but my logic would be that he got about 2" of lift due to not already having BB and installing the 643's. (please comfirm this with us,stashtogo) if you have a BB and install the 643's the normal response if that you typically gain about 1.25" on top of a BB.. so if you were stock and installed them I would guess 2" makes sense. the 646's on the other hand I would guess you could get like .75" of a lift from with a BB in and maybe 1.5" without.. so perhaps the shocks were a bit blown too like you've stated, bax.

Ant, can you please post a stance pic of your WK from the side with the 646's in?
it would really help me decide on 646's,643's or Bilsteins in the rear to pair with Bilsteins up front. Thanks.

ill post a pic of my WK with the daystar and the 646s (OE replacements) on my instagram later today, i believe youre following me on it? mike_bax
 
#55 ·
I'm new to this model Jeep, and I made the mistake of buying original equipment Laredo springs. For anyone reading this don't do it unless you only put two people, and only small packages. Those like me that carry tools, large sons, and there friends in the very rear sometimes. Take my advice get limited, Overland, or V-8 springs I'm not sure which.
I could swear it looks like two inches I'll go outside, and try to take a picture in a minute. I'm not really sure about the front just yet I'm going to have to do something, but I think I'll give it a couple of weeks to settle then choose. Meanwhile I've been driving today, and it feels like a different truck.
 
#56 ·
I'm new to this model Jeep, and I made the mistake of buying original equipment Laredo springs. For anyone reading this don't do it unless you only put two people, and only small packages. Those like me that carry tools, large sons, and there friends in the very rear sometimes. Take my advice get limited, Overland, or V-8 springs I'm not sure which.
I could swear it looks like two inches I'll go outside, and try to take a picture in a minute. I'm not really sure about the front just yet I'm going to have to do something, but I think I'll give it a couple of weeks to settle then choose. Meanwhile I've been driving today, and it feels like a different truck.
ant, yea thats what Im saying.. installing the 643's (longer f-150s) with a stock setup would get you maybe 2".

stashgto, im quite confused now. you bought new springs? I thought you installed MLLs? or maybe you did both... regardless getting the direct replacement springs is fine. did you install monroe load levelers ending in part number 646 or 643, though? 643's would explain getting 2" of lift in the rear of a stock WK. measure from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of your fender in the front and rear and get back to us. or post a pic of it now with the MLLs in.
 
#57 · (Edited)
Sorry about the cell phone pic's, and it's dark outside already.
From left to right, and then down
The 1st pic is the night I picked her up look at the front, and notice how low the rear is.
The 2nd pic is with the new Laredo springs unloaded I thought I'd be happy.
The 3rd pic is 20,00 miles later with tools, but no people sorry it's from the side. Although it doesn't sag it's lost height, and on very bumpy roads with people inside she's hitting the snubbers.
Pic 4, and 5 are with the Laredo springs, and the 646's. The tools are inside, but no people.
I took a measuring tape out with me, but I forgot to use it -Duh. I'll get measurements for you guys
One good thing is while doing this I noticed the threads for the Tpm is broken off on the left rear so I'll be finding a replacement tonight.
 

Attachments

#67 ·
Just an update on these shocks guys. They are awesome and the ride quality is great! I have ran into an issue though. I have the 646 shocks and its raised the truck quite a bit in the rear. The springs on the shocks are contacting the shock body and created a rubbing/squealing sensation. Its annoying as hell and im wondering if there is a fix for it? I'm Thinking of wrapping a section of heater hose around the spring and clamping it down where its contating along with some grease. Has anyone ran into the same problem with the LLs?
 
#69 ·
I bought the MLL 643s. My mechanic said he couldnt get them to fit and line up wihout hitiing gas tank. I know he used a lift. Should this be attempted on ground with a standard jack. Some help would be appreciated. I don't want to send back. If u can send back at all. I have RC 2" lift.
 
#70 ·
I put mine on with a car lift. Started the top bolts. Took a bit of man power to push them into place in the bottom. Then I used a punch to line up the holes for the bottom bracket. Be careful, i would add some washers to the top shock bolt becuase the shock is way narrower than the oem one. I ended up just cranking mine down and it bent the body flange. Its fine though, just don't plan on putting a oem one back on.
 
#71 ·
i installed mine without using a lift or removing the tires. Only used th4e jack to raise my jeep about an inch to get the lower portion of the shock to line up with the mount.

1) remove the x2 bottom bolts
2) remove the x2 top bolts and remove shock
3) install new shock (top bolts first) do not fully tighten
3a) trim plastic flap in wheel well to give clearance for the LL spring (tin snips and utility knife worked for me, also a dremel to smooth out the edges)
4) install x2 lower bolts... will to use a jack to raise the vehicle about an inch to line up the holes on the bottom of the shock with the mounting point
5) torque everything down (70ft/lbs top -- 85 ft/lbs bottom)
6) done
 
#72 ·
ant, I believe they are talking about the 643s.. not the 646s like you installed...since those 643s are longer, I would imagine that they take a little more of a fight to get in.

and I've heard about the noise issues with the MLLs.. like mentioned, it just that sleeve that fell down.. glue it up in place and youre all good....
Ant, did you run into these sleeve noise issues at all with the 646s?
 
#73 ·
if he plans on running the 643s he will need a couple washers on the top mount as its narrower than the top mount on the 646s.

no issues with the sleeves on my end. i ran a bead of gorilla glue around the base, the best i could with the spring still on the shock. if they fall, ill just take the spring off and reglue the boot.
 
#75 ·
So I just read this whole thread. All I have gained is more confusion and a slight head ache and I am no closer to a decision. I was sold on Bilsteins all the way around. But then I started reading this and thought the 646's would be better. But then I dont want any rake and I dont have a lift. So is anyone running the 646's with Bilsteins up front? I do tow so any input is appreciated. UGH this just got so much more complicated lol.
 
#76 ·
The best way I can sum it up is this:

The 646's are for stock WK's. Great price, basically maintain factory rake and are perfect for those that tow allot or carry allot a weight in the rear.

The 643 are the same as above but longer which is great for only for lifted WK's.

The only downfall to the MLL is that it will stiffen up the rear.

If you are concerned with the MLL's being to stiff, then the Bilstein HD's are the answer. A much more expensive answer but the best handling shocks IMO and work great even with a BB installed.
 
#80 ·
That is a good summation, and they do definitely firm up the rear nicely. I can have tools, jack, the fellas, and now it feels like normal. I love the way it handles now also. It was scary stiff the 1st day-week, and it eventually went to firm. Since he tows I would go with the Mll's I don't think the bilsteins will help with the tongue weight, and maintaining a steady ride height. I'm assuming he's like me when I go to the track except he's adding a boat, plus gear, and people.
I do have a question also with the Mll's out back what would closely match for the front? I'm thinking the Bilsteins because Monroe sensatrack-reflex may not be good enough, and we all agree stock isn't an option.
 
#77 ·
Thats a good summation. I would assume the Bilstein HDs are better for towing than stock?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top