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Old 11-21-2011, 02:18 AM
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Arrow Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

I am going to get new rotors and pads...looking for direct replacements. I am currently looking at the performance cross drilled and slotted rotors from R1 (they have 2 types for the wk, and these are the higher-end ones I cant remember exact name), and get the performance pads for the fronts and the pasi-ceramic pads for the rears. I want to get better performance, mainly for the fronts, and reduce the brake dust mainly for the rears. My rears really give off a lot of dust and I need to change that

I am open to suggestions...direct replacement rotors that will have good performance and build quality, with a combo of performance pads and slightly-less dust for rears...or if you know of a good combo pad with performance and dust reduction I am open to that too

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Old 11-21-2011, 02:19 AM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

R1 rotors for sure
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Old 11-21-2011, 12:39 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

and how about pads Mr Scott? I want to get the most performance in the front mainly, but over reduce the brake dust (mainly the rears).
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:02 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

R1 rotors are in my near future.

I recently read a review on rotors in general online from a race car driver who said that slotted rotors are no good. I can't find the article but he said all you're doing is creating faster pad wear.

It was a really good article because the different style rotors were tested on Le mans cars. I wish I could find the article dammit.

His conclusion was that only cross-drilled is the way to go.

Somebody might counter post with a different opinion. The article I read was a reliable source.
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:14 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

the higher the performance the pad...the more brake dust you will get. You have to decide if you want performance or less brake dust
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Old 11-21-2011, 04:16 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

R1 is the be-all-end-all IMHO... they ROCK. I had a set from Steve at R1 and when i finally have the cash, i'll have another set for my SRT. I won't go anywhere near anyone else.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:09 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

Quote:
Originally Posted by lll2for3lll View Post
R1 rotors are in my near future.

I recently read a review on rotors in general online from a race car driver who said that slotted rotors are no good. I can't find the article but he said all you're doing is creating faster pad wear.

It was a really good article because the different style rotors were tested on Le mans cars. I wish I could find the article dammit.

His conclusion was that only cross-drilled is the way to go.

Somebody might counter post with a different opinion. The article I read was a reliable source.

I read something similar. As I understand it the slots are to shave the rotors to clear any glazing caused by extreme temperatures. Which explains why they would wear the pads faster.

That being said, I have slotted rotors. lol And love them. I have been running Ebc Slotted / Dimpled rotors with Raybestos ceramic pads for a few years now. My OEM rotors warped at 19,000 miles. I've had these ever since, I've gotton about 70,000 miles out of them.(had them cut once and I had to clean them once). This combo seems to work pretty well. Good bite and minimal dust. I had EBC Green Stuff pads for a while but wasn't impressed with them. In the back I have the Raybestos on standard rotors.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:18 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

Where did you have them cut and what type machine did they use?
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:09 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

I don't know the machine. I know a guy. lol I left them by the back door on my way to work and they were sitting by the back door when I stopped by at the end of the day. I don't ask questions.

They probably didn't even need to be cut. More then likely they needed a good cleaning like I did the second time. brake dust deposits in the dimples and slots then heats up and hardens. It kinda looks like welding slag.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:26 AM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

Having raced myself for several years I'll 2nd the slotted rotors no-go comment. Granted generally speaking we're usually using matched set carbon setups, but even when racing on "regular steels" we only used drilled. The thing you need to be wary about is how they are drilled. Having old jo bob do it with a drill press is asking for disaster(90% of Ebay rotors). They need to be cryo treated and drille per a CAD setup to ensure the stresses and heat are dispersed evenly across the rotor. Cheap drilled rotors will show tiny fissures/cracks around the holes after a few thousands miles.

On that note you can cut drilled rotors, just be prepared to buy your buddy a new bit if he isn't very careful. We ended up breaking bits about 20% of the time when cutting them. The trick is to go very slow and shave a very small amount each pass. In general we'd end up doing 5-6 passes(normally you'd do 2) when cutting a relatively flat rotor. If its severly warped you might as well forget it as it would take 2 days to cut and you'd probably go through atleast 2 bits in the process.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:31 AM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

I'm currently using R1's also. Great stuff...big improvement over the stock SRT brakes. Currently running stoptech pads which have been on for over a year now, and they have definitely reduced brake dust over the stockers.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:12 PM
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Re: Rotors and Pads - R1 or other??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jahkneefive View Post
Having raced myself for several years I'll 2nd the slotted rotors no-go comment. Granted generally speaking we're usually using matched set carbon setups, but even when racing on "regular steels" we only used drilled. The thing you need to be wary about is how they are drilled. Having old jo bob do it with a drill press is asking for disaster(90% of Ebay rotors). They need to be cryo treated and drille per a CAD setup to ensure the stresses and heat are dispersed evenly across the rotor. Cheap drilled rotors will show tiny fissures/cracks around the holes after a few thousands miles.

On that note you can cut drilled rotors, just be prepared to buy your buddy a new bit if he isn't very careful. We ended up breaking bits about 20% of the time when cutting them. The trick is to go very slow and shave a very small amount each pass. In general we'd end up doing 5-6 passes(normally you'd do 2) when cutting a relatively flat rotor. If its severly warped you might as well forget it as it would take 2 days to cut and you'd probably go through atleast 2 bits in the process.
+Rep and wasup neighbor.
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