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Old 09-29-2014, 01:16 PM
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Hardwiring accessories

Ok, here's the deal. I have "attempted" to hardwire the following into my '07 Laredo, only to FUBAR the instrumentation, and various other idiot lights going on, along with many power functions that are stock (wipers, lights, horn, etc) . Right now, it is at the shop being reverted back to normal, and hopefully all will be well.

This is what I did. I hardwired the following using add a circuit's to the 20A fuses for the power adapters. The following were tapped in; GPS, Bluetooth, one iPhone, and an iPod, the other iPhone is plugged in to the power outlet, and the key off power outlet, a mobile signal booster is connected into it, along with being tapped using the add a circuit at its fuse.

Now, this is what I did. I used the add a circuits, with a female end of a acessory port, along with a USB adapters, grounded it on the fuse block screws using ring terminals, and screwing them down into it. Everything powered up nicely, and charged, until I hit the key, and all hell broke loose. Driveability of the truck was great, in fact, it was better than it used to be

What would be the BEST WAY to do this? I do not want WIRES ALL OVER THE CABIN. All Data claims that hardwiring and using add a circuits should not be done on factory fuse blocks- this according to the shop. Should I consider an auxiallary fuse block? How easy are these to install? I would like it underneath the steering column, so it is hidden. I am a bit of a neophyte when it comes to wiring, but if it is spelled out in simple terms, and comprehensive, it can be done.

Cheers!!

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Old 09-29-2014, 03:18 PM
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Re: Hardwiring accessories

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Originally Posted by ghostrider I View Post
Ok, here's the deal. I have "attempted" to hardwire the following into my '07 Laredo, only to FUBAR the instrumentation, and various other idiot lights going on, along with many power functions that are stock (wipers, lights, horn, etc) . Right now, it is at the shop being reverted back to normal, and hopefully all will be well.

This is what I did. I hardwired the following using add a circuit's to the 20A fuses for the power adapters. The following were tapped in; GPS, Bluetooth, one iPhone, and an iPod, the other iPhone is plugged in to the power outlet, and the key off power outlet, a mobile signal booster is connected into it, along with being tapped using the add a circuit at its fuse.

Now, this is what I did. I used the add a circuits, with a female end of a acessory port, along with a USB adapters, grounded it on the fuse block screws using ring terminals, and screwing them down into it. Everything powered up nicely, and charged, until I hit the key, and all hell broke loose. Driveability of the truck was great, in fact, it was better than it used to be

What would be the BEST WAY to do this? I do not want WIRES ALL OVER THE CABIN. All Data claims that hardwiring and using add a circuits should not be done on factory fuse blocks- this according to the shop. Should I consider an auxiallary fuse block? How easy are these to install? I would like it underneath the steering column, so it is hidden. I am a bit of a neophyte when it comes to wiring, but if it is spelled out in simple terms, and comprehensive, it can be done.

Cheers!!
I've never been a fan of the add-a-circuit product, but here's a pretty simple version of what I would do:

First, if you want to cleanly power your accessories, there is NO BETTER solution than direct power. There is already an existing hole through the firewall above your brake pedal so running a small power wire directly to the battery IMHO is the way to go. You can cover the power wire, of which I'd say go at least 10AWG, with some color matched conduit to match your under the hood accessories (like this: Amazon.com: Wire Loom Black 20' Feet 1/4" Split Tubing Conduit Hose Cover Auto Home Marine: Electronics ). I'd use a ring terminal to connect to the battery and either get one with built-in shrink wrap, or shrink wrap it since it may see water exposure. (see these terminals: Amazon.com : Stinger 8 Gauge Crimp Style Ring Terminal 2 Pair : Vehicle Amplifier Power Cable Terminals : Electronics and this EPIC marine shrink wrap: 42 Piece Marine Heat Shrink Tubing )

Next, now that you have a clean power supply, it's time to fuse your connection. I'm a fan of the waterproof in-line fuse connectors with BLADE fuses (like this: Amazon.com : In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG : Vehicle Audio Video Accessories And Parts : Car Electronics ) and typically run accessories like this off of 20A. Keep in mind, that you can locate the fuse inside the cabin (near the accessories) or under the hood. If you're not comfortable with soldering the connections, the waterproof/shrinkwrap butt-end splice connectors work pretty nicely too.

Next, assuming that you don't want these devices to be powered when your Jeep is keyed off, I'd suggest adding a relay. A standard Bosch type relay like this: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-...tomotive+relay should do just fine. If you're not familiar with how to wire a relay, either buy a relay with a relay socket (quick connect) or use spade connectors to attach the correct wires to each terminal. See wiring diagram here: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbo/w...dt_relay02.jpg . The easiest accessible switched source in the cabin is the accessory 12v DC port behind the center trim panel, which can easily be pried off with a trim pry bar. Use one of these bad boys Amazon.com: Lockitt POSI-TAP Assortment pack wire connectors 10-22 awg: Automotive to splice the wire on the back of the LEFT KEYED DC terminal and easily route the wires back underneath the pop-down panel under the steering wheel. Remember to familiarize yourself with the diagram and how a relay works!

Next, assuming that you've followed the directions above, you've got a hot wire fused lead coming directly from the battery into the cabin and a automotive relay, which is really a switched ground wire, connected to your ignition accessory circuit via your accessory DC outlet (the LEFT ONE, because the right one is always on and NOT KEYED!).

Now, go buy this: RadioShack® 8-Position Dual-Row Barrier Strips - RadioShack.com . Along with the jumper, 8-Position Jumper - RadioShack.com , you'll be able to turn one half of the block into CLEAN FUSED HOT power (up to the limit of the fuse you installed in the first step) and the other half as the same switched ground from the relay! (Do this by chopping the jumper in half and installing one end on each opposite half of the block)

Note: this is a 12v powered distribution block. If you want to attach things to the power via USB cable, you'll need to hard wire a converter onto the distribution block.

LONGEVITY REPORT: I've had this EXACT setup on my motorcycle for 2 years. One of the first accessories I installed was a digital voltmeter to watch my voltage spikes. My report is that this is a PERFECT solution for those that want to hardwire a bunch of accessories and don't want to mess with our WK's super sensitive electronics!
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