Hi all! a while back i added a loc,amp and a 10" sub to the rear of my wk, but i've been doing and will be doing more traveling,so I want to free up the space. I had some old (age wise) but very little used JL audio 6w0-4's in a mj project just sitting there, so i decided to try them.
After work I put one in,but i need some sleep before doing the 2nd (work nights) Anyway since they are only rated for 75watts, I dont think there should be a problem powering them, but with just one in at the moment, it is lacking BIG TIME!! to hear it i have to crank the bass and volume up way more then normal,and the dash (same side) sounds terrible i dont see how it could be from only having the 1 side in so far, but maybe
I pulled the wires off my sub,but not the power from it,but dont think thats doing it..
I dont get it, in my MJ it has a very basic headunit and thats all (no amp) but it sounded real good any ideas?
I had them just off the head unit in the mj, so just did the same in the wk,well Stock BA amp.
Aside from the pita of wiring I could use the amp from my sub -little 600w sony X-plode, would there be a problem using the stock wiring instead of running new to the doors?
I was trying to use them as an upgrade to the doors, that would be enough to pull the sub from the rear.I wasnt running them as subs per say before. the place i got them from said they used them as stock speaker upgrades. I read that you can run a 4ohm resistor to make the speakers 2ohm.... is that a good/safe idea?
I guess I would just never use a sub for a rear speaker upgrade...different frequency responses, etc, so basically all you should hear is bass from the rear speakers now? If I were a passenger in the rear, I'd be pissed LOL.
Oh sheesh, maybe I should learn to read. Yeah for the fronts (since the stock BA amp is wired for lows only) that might be a good idea. I still doubt there is enough power from the stock amp though to really PUSH that sub. You'll need some real amped power methinks.
Also, wondering how that sub will sound without a retrofitted box/enclosure/sealing back in the door. Report back when you get it fixed.
I think the problem would be finding a resistor that would take the load from the amp on a consistent basis. When you wire in the resistor, it will share the load from the speaker.
Honestly I don't know about low wattages like this, but I know you can't do the resistor thing for systems with real wattage...
I wonder if you can test the speaker's performance by bridging the connections from the L&R rear speakers...that should essentially double the input wattage? EE's correct me if I'm wrong, but it works in my head...
Since apparently I'm the only one who is responding to this post, I guess I'll continue. Yes, you can use the output from the stock BA amp as an input to another amp. Keep in mind though, that if your second amp doesn't have a built in crossover adjustment, you'll definitely only want to tap the output for the front door speakers, as the stock BA amp has a build in crossover and the "woofer" in the door is only receiving low frequency sound right now.
Essentially, you could take the amplified output from the BA amp to the front speaker by cutting the existing wire and then splice back into that existing wire (which is wired to the front speaker) for the new amp's output.
Tricky, but might work. You'll probably require a 2-channel amp to do that, unless you can wire both the front woofers to the same terminal on the new amp (not sure how that would work).
Also, d@mn it's nice to know the Hemi WK's can reach to the kind of mileage you have right now!