Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Front Diff Fluid Change Cheat

38K views 43 replies 14 participants last post by  Electronut 
#1 ·
So I did the diff and transfer case fluids over the weekend. I notice most folks go find a large allen key set for the 14mm plugs up front. I'm a bit cheap when it comes to buying tools I only use once in a blue moon, so I headed over to the hardware store.

If anyone is looking for a cheap way to get those plugs out, get yourself a 7/16" coupler nut. The piece is just about an inch long. It's a tight fit in the 14mm hole, but the nut is a soft enough metal that you wont have any issues with it getting stuck in there or in your wrench..

Just put a 14mm wrench on there and apply elbow grease. Hope that helps!
 
#6 ·
Re: Front Diff fluid change cheat

Go buy yourself a hex key for 10 bucks and cut it into 1 inch pieces. Insert into a 14mm socket and viola. Should be able to get 3-4 pieces out of a single key. So split it with your friends.
 
#7 ·
Re: Front Diff fluid change cheat

....Go buy yourself a hex key for 10 bucks and cut it into 1 inch pieces. .....
No need to cut it. Ace Hardware works just fine as-is.

There isn't much room for a socket and ratchet. I can get the Allen key in fine and tap the long end with a small deadblow hammer if it needs some "persuading" to get started.
 
#8 · (Edited)
If anyone is looking for a cheap way to get those plugs out, get yourself a 7/16" coupler nut. The piece is just about an inch long. It's a tight fit in the 14mm hole, but the nut is a soft enough metal that you wont have any issues with it getting stuck in there or in your wrench..
ok, so I bought a coupler nut that would fit a 7/16" thread, but apparently that is not correct (at least not correct for me), it was way to large to fit in the hole of the differential drain plug.

I ended up buying a few couplers trying to figure out which one would fit my front differential. I ended up with a coupler that fits inside of a 9/16" wrench. The coupler slide into the hole of the differential drain plug and then I was able to use a 9/16" wrench to turn the coupler nut.

So when shopping for a coupler, bring a 9/16" socket with you and test that it fits snugly in the socket before buying.

Thought I'd pass this along.
 
#9 ·
just thought i'd post a quick followup.

the front was a pain, had to remove the skid plate and of course track down the coupling. I tried to fill via my mityvac but gear oil is thick so that took quite a while. it took 1.5 litres plus the 4oz bottle of limited slip.

for the rear, I'm surprised all there is a simple rubber plug! I had the jeep warmed up so draining via the mityvac was not bad. for filling, I used a hose on top of each bottle instead of the mityvac. I never did remove the rear cover. took about 30 min total. it tooks 2 litres plus the 4oz bottle of limited slip.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I just did mine yesterday. Front, rear and xfercase. The most work was taking off the 2 skids and all the red sealer off the rear diff. Weird with that lil rubber plug but it works I guess! lol

I used mobile 1 gear oil, Mopar additive and Mopar xfer case juice. Front took 1.5 liters and 4 ounces of additive. Didn't need to remove diff cover cuz I bought a 14mm hex and cut it to fit. Rear was about 2 liters until it started oozing out. Added the additive as well.

She's driving smooth and clean! Took only 1.5 hours. I def recommend getting a hand pump to refill the front diff and xfercase. Not too much room under there! :thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
I used mobile 1 gear oil, Mopar additive and Mopar xfer case juice. Front took 1.5 liters and 40z of additive. Didn't need to remove diff cover cuz I bought a 14mm hex and cut it to fit. Rear was about 2 liters until it started oozing out. Added the additive as well.
Bout to do this...

What do you mean "cut it to fit"? I thought the only way to drain to front and rear diffs was to take off the whole cover. (unless you want to pump out through the fill holes) To remove the covers, don't you need a regular socket to remove the bolts, not a "hex key" as it sounds you're describing?

OR

Do I have this all wrong and the front diff has a single drain plug similar to that of the xfer case?
 
#22 ·
my WK has 20000 miles on it, my fluids didn't look that bad, but I tow frequently so I'm going to get into the 15000 miles between changes from now on.

the severe scheduled is 15000 miles, while the non-severe is 30000 miles.

is there such a thing as a magnetic plug for the front drain? perhaps even a magnet plug to replace the silly rubber plug in the rear.
 
#23 ·
I used a T70 Torx socket from Auto Zone on the front drain plug. $5 from Auto Zone, sold individually and fits right in there. Cheaper than buying a hex set with a 14mm in it. It's an idea from using a T60 Torx socket, that I have had forever, on the T-case plugs on the WK and the TJ. It's either a T60 or T55, I'm just too lazy to verify that right now because it's raining.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Electronut
#44 · (Edited)
Crashtown - your awesome brother! The T70 torx socket worked like a charm and for only $3.99 you can't go wrong. Forget this whole 7/16 coupler nut solution. Got in there with that socket and wrench no problem. A little tight for the drain fill plug area but got it in there.

Here is the link for it. Picked it up today and looks like I got the last one at the store near me. Beware however as the highlight description says it's 3/8 size but it is indeed 1/2" as stated in the description. Unfortunately my torque wrench is 3/8 so I just tightened my lugs to my best judgment with standard ratchet. I didn't even have to lift the truck. Removed the skid plate and just slid under and did the work. I'm not a small guy either.

Duralast/3/8 in. drive S2 steel T70 star bit (76-021) | Driver Bit | AutoZone.com_
 
#24 ·
My t-case change was a pain in the *ss because you cant fit any type of socket or allen wrench in to get the drain plug out bc there is some bracket in the way. I had to cut down a 10mm hx wrench to about 3/4" and use an open ended wrench to loosen the nut
 
#26 · (Edited)
Mine is a tight fit between the T-case and a bent stainless steel line, but I make it work with the Torx socket and a Craftsman 3/8 ratchet. At least enough to break it loose. Then I just use the socket and my fingers.
 
#29 ·
Did the TC last weekend and the rear diff yesterday. Went to do the front diff this morning and realized the front two bolts holding the plastic skid plate are rusted and one is deformed so I can't get a ratchet on it. How many bolts hold up the skid in the back? Has anyone successfully changed the front diff without removing the skid plate?
 
#31 ·
....realized the front two bolts holding the plastic skid plate are rusted and one is deformed so I can't get a ratchet on it. How many bolts hold up the skid in the back? Has anyone successfully changed the front diff without removing the skid plate?
2 front and 2 back. Same part number 06505269AA.

I always remove the splash cover / skid plate for front differential service. Not necessary for transfer case. Just did all mine this week also.

14mm and 12mm hex keys for front diff. (200CF); 10mm hex key socket will fit both fill & drain plugs for the transfer case (NV245).

Fill the front diff and transfer case slowly and let the oil settle down. If you go too fast, it will give a false indication of full by overflowing out the fill hole instead of draining into the bottom of the case. Didn't see this happen on the rear diff. Maybe there is more room around the internals for the lubricant to flow down freely. :confused:
 
#32 ·
Man I noticed my skid plate hanging after I told my mechanic to change the front diff fluid last and he told me "it looked good so we didn't change it" - when I looked at it yesterday the bolt snapped and when I took off the other - that one snapped too! Now it's held up with zip ties. Wah wah!
 
#38 ·
Are you all lifting your WK to reach the front diff and xcase? I have never done this before but I feel extremely confident I can do this. I am just trying to replace all fluids without having to lift the WK on stands. Rear looks super easy as far as clearance goes. I have a stock 06 5.7.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top