Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

[Guide] WK H1 Mini Morimoto Retrofitting Low Beam

34K views 78 replies 15 participants last post by  lll2for3lll 
#1 · (Edited)

Note: This is a lengthy post because it is not a "How To".




This is a guide for anybody that want to retrofit projectors in their WK. These are steps/tips that would have been useful if they were available to me during my retrofit process.


Some thing you'll need:

Note: This is what I paid and needed to purchase.

-H1 Mini Morimoto Projectors ~$170
Includes Gatling Gun shrouds. Ask for the Gatling Gun shrouds with the 4 screw holes. I had an HID kit already so all I need was H1 bulbs. I also ordered E46-R shroud which cost $30 and but i did not use the because I preferred Gatling Gun shrouds. www.theretrofitsource.com
-Headlight Assemblies $120
Mine are after market. I chose aftermarket because of the soft glue they use to seal them. I can stress enough how easy they are to open.
-Band Straps or Tie Down Straps $10
The price above was for 2 Tie Down Strap. I would suggest using these over clamps. I had some clamps I got from work but had a hard time keeping them clamped to the edges. Only using straps is just fine. Using 2 strap per headlight is better.

-Thread Lock
$Cheap
I used it for a piece of mind on the projector nut and H1 bulb bracket screws.

-Dremel Sand Stone
$2.&somechange
I have a 18v Lithium Battery Dewalt Drill so I said **** a dremel tool and just bought the sand stone bit. Choose the shape you want but I used the small cylinder shaped stone.

-
3M 1/4" Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealant $Look it up
Damn, I could not find this stuff in stores. I did come across some at Car Quest but paid $20 for 15 feet of it. You better look it up and purchase it online.

-Clear Silicone
$Cheap
Just one small "tooth paste size" tube is more than enough. I used DAP Kwik Seal brand. Goes on white for visibility, drys clear for invisibility. :lol:

I ended up paying around
$330.


Here is the thread on how to open them:
http://www.jeepgarage.org/showthread.php?t=8301

Don't forget the clips and rivets:
http://www.jeepgarage.org/showthread.php?t=4110



When opening the headlight, 220 degrees and 15 minutes is enough for aftermarket headlight assemblies. Just remember to pull the plastic tabs (shown in the pictures) away from the lens when prying it open. The plastic will be flexible from the heat.





On the back of the headlight, you will have to remove the white 9006 bulb bracket.

Also, might not be necessary, but I broke off the 3 humps around the hole.



The only EXTRA part for the projector that you will be using is the small rubber washer that will go in between the projector and reflector.

On the inside of the reflector, you will have to sand down the "circular ring hump" around the hole in order to push enough of the projector threads through the hole so that the nut will screw down far enough to equip the H1 bulb bracket.

The projector will hide small scratches near the hole.





This is wrong. The picture below is what it will look like if you DO NOT sand down the "circular ring hump" around the hole. The H1 bulb bracket will not fit flush in the picture below.



Screw the shrouds on the projectors before attaching the the projector to the reflector. To make this step easier, first run a screw threw each hole of the shroud before screwing them on the projector.

If you are using Gatling Gun shrouds, the one on the right is the one you want.



If you want to, apply thread lock to the nut and the 3 screws for the H1 bulb bracket.

(I didn't have the shrouds attached to the projector at first because one of them was messed up and I was waiting for another set.) Attach the headlight assemblies, equipped with projectors and bulbs, to your WK without the lens the turn them on. This is where you will need to level the cutoff.

The lower step of the cutoff needs to be perfectly horizontal. You will have to rotate the projectors by handed.



When sealing the headlight, do not be afraid to stuff the channel with Windo-Weld and be sure to stuff this corner in the picture below as much as possible.

This is also the first part where the lens is applied.



After you seal them, apply the clear silicone all around the edges. When you spread it on with your finger, you will see the white silicone squeeze into any gaps between the lens and the housing. Take your time.

I hope these tips help you with retrofitting your 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee with Mini Morimoto Projectors. (I typed that for Google. :lol:)

I'd like to thank robpp, pmpn8ez, SRTILLA, DC Customs, and Matt & Nate from The Retrofit Source.




Peace.











Oh Yeah......................Level these things right. The projector really magnifies the light. They will be brighter than HIDs in halogen housings.

-25 feet away from the wall
-Measure to the center of the projector
-Go to the wall and measure the lower step of the cutoff 1 to 2 inches lower than the height of the projector


Note: My whole windshield is tint so therefore, the output doesn't look as bright as it really is. Hell, pictures do no justice anyway.



Not blinding anybody.

"Hey Mister, you need some light?"


 
See less See more
12
#2 ·
Added a tip about the clear silicone at the very end. Simple tip but very helpful.
 
#3 ·
#5 ·
#6 ·


 
#7 ·
I have been working on a retrofit with FX-R projectors for over a year now...I think you have persuaded me to just get a set of aftermarket housings and some morimoto minis and just go this route in the meantime. I can still finish that other retrofit, install them and then sell these ready to go!

Thank you for inspiring me to spend more money!
 
  • Like
Reactions: lll2for3lll
#8 ·
No problem.
 
#10 ·
The Minis are wide enough for me. Not trying to have the "best lights on the street". Just having HIDs is plenty.
 
#12 ·
Yep. The E46 and E46 Extended shrouds will work fine.

The E46 Extended would have to be shaved a little.

I'd splurge and make another set but I'm not trying to put more money into this WK.
 
#13 ·
Im getting ready to venture into this project for my 05 WK.
I am going to have to start from scratch because I dont already have an HID kit.
I noticed in your first post you said dont forget the rivets and clips. Can they not be reused when you put the bumper back on?

If you dont mind, I am sure I will need to pick your brain as I start this process.

Have you had any issues using aftermarket housings?
 
#14 ·
The clips for the grill can be reused several times before they wear out like mine are.

No problem with the aftermarket headlights. I few slight design flaws like on one of them, the hole was missing for the big clip with the white push pin. I fixed that with a drill. And on one of the turn signal sockets, the bulb fixture stews in kind of funny. These things were no issue at all for me. Seriously.

As for the lens itself, no discoloration or hazing at all thus for. Thank to the help of the "35w" bulbs and ballasts that burn not as hot as the 55w bulbs and ballasts. (Another reason I won't use 55w kits.)
 
#16 ·
My low beam projectors stay on when the high beams are on. I have no idea why. I thinks it's because of the relay harness connected directly to the battery.

Meaning: The circuit is still energized due to the fact that is connected directly to the battery. The circuit is not opened when the high beams are toggled.
 
#20 ·
I just don't want to risk a stuck solenoid. That's why I didn't wire them.
 
#22 ·
Yeah. It happens. There are steps you can take to prevent it but I'd rather not risk it at all.
 
#23 ·
thanks, now you've got me paranoid haha.
 
#25 ·
can I get some help on this issue? Right side beam is much brighter than the left side. Right (passenger) also flickers after I turn the lights off. also there is a buzzing noise in the passenger side ballast (and not on the driver's).

Any idea?






also: HIR halogen vs HID projector for reference :)

 
#26 ·
also when the car's in the "ON" key position BOTH sides flash like goddamn strobe lights
 
#27 ·
Bad ballast maybe. Did you use you existing ballast and relay kit or did you buy a new kit? And what kit is it?
 
#28 ·
new all around, the ballasts are both 3five morimoto
 
#29 ·
They sent me can-bus relays instead of the regular relay kit they have and I think that I need the regular relays since its (the flashing) is happening on both sides)
 
#30 ·
Also, now that I've leveled then, they are at the right height but when I turn the brights on.....they're like 20' in the air, wayyyy too high. Both low beam bi-xenons are at the same level but the high beam halogens are just way too high. Any way to fix it?

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk
 
#32 ·
Yes, but I don't know how easy they will be to open. It depends on the type of glue that was used to seal them.

They are OEM spec'd so they will do just fine.
 
#34 ·
I got mine from 1A Auto. The link is in the first post.
 
#36 ·
Try LED bulbs. Go to V-LEDS.com.
 
#38 ·
And they can eventually ruin the lens.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top