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Hemi tick finally cured

147K views 25 replies 16 participants last post by  Ragmanx 
#1 ·
76k on my Hemi and have always run full synhetic oil, changed it and used injector cleaner every 5k and only run top tier 89 octane, and the tick would never go away. New EGR helped but still made the noise. It is time for an oil change after 5k on Valvoline synpower, so I added 10 oz of Seafoam to the old oil. WIthin 15 miles of driving the tick is totally gone, and the MDS is so smooth you cannot even tell when it switches on and off. It seems the lifters in the Hemi get sticky after a while and the Seafoam loosens up deposits and frees them up. I'll drive it another 20 miles or so before changing the oil with Synpower, and can't wait to feel how smooth is runs !! I was a bit of a skeptic until today about Seafoam, but am sold on it now. Just don't use it on any older motor that has any oil leaks, or it will make them worse.
 
#3 ·
This does the trick for smoothing the MDS; I am now certain it is the lifters causing the hemi tick for sure, and with 4 cylinders shut down, the sticky lifters are that much more noticable.
 
#4 ·
This is what I have read about the hemi tick..

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Remember that the Hemi tick consists of 3 separate noises . 1) the injectors make noise due to lack of lubricity in the fuel. ACES IV addresses that (Fuel Additive). 2) Intake and especially exhaust valves are ticking against the valve seats because they have no cushion left from the fuel. No more lead (obviously gone since Jan 1 1986) and not even any sulfur….that is a high pressure lubricant. Mix that with 10% ethyl alcohol and you have a really bad mix. Hammering basically metal to metal. 3) the short piston skirt on the hemi causes the piston to rattle in the bores in idle. This is why they add the moly coat to the skirt so that it will quiet down. As the engine gets some miles on it, the piston slap will get louder.
 
#6 ·
This is what I have read about the hemi tick..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Remember that the Hemi tick consists of 3 separate noises . 1) the injectors make noise due to lack of lubricity in the fuel. ACES IV addresses that (Fuel Additive). 2) Intake and especially exhaust valves are ticking against the valve seats because they have no cushion left from the fuel. No more lead (obviously gone since Jan 1 1986) and not even any sulfur….that is a high pressure lubricant. Mix that with 10% ethyl alcohol and you have a really bad mix. Hammering basically metal to metal. 3) the short piston skirt on the hemi causes the piston to rattle in the bores in idle. This is why they add the moly coat to the skirt so that it will quiet down. As the engine gets some miles on it, the piston slap will get louder.
THat is a theoretical explanation that some have proposed. The experimental proof with my hemi is that I have no tick or valve train noise whatosever now, all you hear is smooth V8, and that is with old worn oil. Try it is all I can say.
 
#5 ·
ALso, when you change the EGR, do not follow the instructions and pictures posted by in the forum how to. All you have to do is remove the upper bolt, then you can rotate the EGR all the way to the left to access the lower bolt, which comes out and goes in easily clearing the alternator. You dont even have to loosen the lower bolt to rotate it, as it will move after you pull on it. Took about 15 minutes to do.
 
#8 ·
It is petroleum based solvent on the label; paraffin is also a pertoleum product but it says nothing about the formulation.
 
#11 ·
Hi Guys, in all about the Hemi tick. I just want to know on why is it that the tick is gone when it idles but as soon as i start driving off the tick is back and goes faster as the revs goes up? Even when im in a low gear you can hear it when giving bit throttle ( not to much so that she gears back ) then i hear it also, when the MDS system activates you can even hear it louder. Does anyone have a cure for that irritating sound? Please.
 
#12 ·
I have a 2010 5.7 with 32,000 miles. Haven't noticed tick. Just changed plugs and did notice slight improvement in gas mileage. Did notice difference in old plugs based on whether they came out of the four that run all the time and the four that are shut down by MDS
 
#13 ·
Well i did seafoam over 2 days. About half a bottle on Sunday and another half Monday. I still noticed the tick. I just took it to the shop and had them check to make sure there was no exhaust leak and there was not one...I just put full synthetic oil in the WK and I don't want to seafoam it with that brand new oil in it. I guess this time I will try to put the whole can of seafoam in the oil. Hopefully that will get rid of the annoying noise. If that doesn't fix it I don't know what else to do. Any one have to run more than one seafoam treatment through the oil to fix the tick? Can you leave seafoam in for longer than 250 miles?:confused:
 
#14 ·
You can do anything you want, but none of this is recommended by the people who make the engine... Seriously, seafoam? Sand will get rid of the noise too... It will be completely quiet.

Just put a "CRD" tag on the rear and turn up the radio. That would be far better for your engine. :lol:
 
#16 ·
87k now on my Hemi and no ticking sounds. I add 1/2 bottle of Seafoam to the oil 100 miles before every oil change, the other 1/2 in the gas tank. If you have not done this on your Hemi, you will not realize how badly those MDS lifters stick. Low end torque really comes alive once they are freed up.
 
#19 ·
I cleaned my tb and got stalling for a few days until it went away on its on. I guess the iac or tps was just a hair off actual. But now I have a catch can so no worries. My 09 doesn't have the tick. But i would never do more than 1/2 can in the crank case. I use marvel mystery oil with every oil change, that miggt have something to do with it.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
#22 ·
Use 1 oz. seafoam per quart of oil maximum, so 1/2 can is about right, also what I use. You also need to reset the ECU after cleaning the TB by disconnecting battery negative terminal for a while, or the idle will be off. Mine even threw an idle code when I started it, so I did the reset and code went away, then idled perfectly.
 
#21 ·
I actually am merely trying to balance the posts here with my wisdom, however unwise, for those who know little and come upon this thread.

"Contempt prior to investigation" is, in my opinion, the basis for the scientific method. One is to attempt to disprove a hypothesis for a reason.

Good luck all!
 
#23 · (Edited)
So I'm curious, for those that have followed other SeaFoam directions, which state you need to spray into the TB where the paddle opens inward, how did you do that on the 5.7? Specifically, mine opens inward on the bottom, there is no way I can get the molded plastic piece on the bottom and still get the intake boot on over the plastic. Did you just put it on top. Oddly enough as well, the instructions online say to hold the rpm around 1500-2000 while spraying the can, my wife was holding around 3k rpm and the TB wouldn't barely open. Mind you, the engine was at operating temp, I'm using the incredible hemifever tunes, and this thing drives better at 91k miles than ever. I will say, even without being able to spray on the open side of the TB, the smoke this thing produced in WOT was insane, had to be good for it.
 
#24 ·
Holy dead thread, Batman!

I've used Seafoam in my TBSS (125k mi) and our WK1 SRT8 (77k miles) since the beginning. I've never used the spray can Seafoam, just the screw cap can. 1/2 in the brake booster line toward the intake manifold, 1/2 in the oil, and a 2nd can in a full tank of gas.

Someone will definitely need to keep a foot on the throttle when you pour it in the brake booster as it will stall. Pour slow and then turn it off for ten minutes to let it sit.

When I fired it up after 10 minutes, there wasn't a ton of smoke like our TBSS, but when I punched it on the road, there was a trail behind us.
 
#25 ·
Yeah, seafoam. I've used it. Seems to work ok. BUT, back in the day, 1970's, grandpa said, just pour about half quart of kerosene in the oil, drive it to town, and back home, change the oil. About ten miles. Yup, cleaned her out good! The oil would stay clean for a long time. Another trick was to slowly pour a half a coke bottle of water down the carb when idling, shut down and let it sit for an hour. That's when I'd change the oil. Re-start and give it a few rev's, tons of black smoke out the tailpipe. Steam cleaned! Now its a bit harder to pour water through with the intakes the way they are though.
 
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