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  #37  
Old 11-25-2011, 01:48 PM
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When you compress the pistons back into the caliper do they stay there? Or must you rig a clamp so that you're forcing them in when you reassemble? I'm just wondering if you don't have the right clamp then you probably can't get the caliper back on?


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  #38  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:10 PM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

You can go to an auto parts store and rental a caliper tool that will press the calipers back in to place. If not a C-Clamp and the old pad does just fine.

The pistons will stay compressed in the caliper after pressed in. When you hit the break pedal the fluid is pushed through the system and that is what forces the piston out into the pad. Which is why you stop lol.

Sorry if I went alittle bit over board with that Im just bored at work.
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  #39  
Old 11-25-2011, 05:41 PM
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Thanks I understand just trying to make sure once I pull the caliper off I don't have to worry about not being able to get it back on because of too much pressure there.


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  #40  
Old 11-28-2011, 12:31 PM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

just make sure you have the brake fluid cap off and a rug around it. it will make life a lot easier for you
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  #41  
Old 01-25-2012, 12:09 AM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

job well done man! very good pics... you should make the same thing but on how to install HIDs pleeeeeease, and thanks!!!
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:29 AM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

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Originally Posted by scottj View Post
job well done man! very good pics... you should make the same thing but on how to install HIDs pleeeeeease, and thanks!!!
there are tons of hid threads on here
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:20 PM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

Lots of good pics, but you forgot a most critical procedure; IF you are not putting new rotors on, ALways have the rotors turned on a brake lathe if you intend on reusing them. No shop would ever do brake work without doing this. It costs $5-10 per rotor, and will resurface, smooth and remove the glazing left from the old pads. Sanding it by hand is not going to work either. Any machine shop and most parts stores do it while you wait. By omitting this step, it comprimises the bedding of the pads and rotors, and the brakes will not perform as they should. Once you have used the pads, it is too late. My OEM fronts lasted over 70k, so rather than machining the old ones, I just put new rotors on.
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Old 02-12-2012, 07:32 PM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

this was great, saved a bunch of money. thank you.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:50 PM
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Thumbs up Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

I want to thank you Matt for the pics and how to. This was the first time I ever attempted to change my own brake pads and it was a breeze! I followed your pics and descriptions I replaced the factory pads with Hawk HPS pads both front and rear. I have about 49K miles on my '07 JGC. The front pads were about halfway through but my rears were really low.

I also took the step to de-glaze my rotors by using 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. I cleaned the dust off with 3M Brake Cleaner.

This post and the how to change the rear brake pads post saved me a ton of money. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:27 PM
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Re: How-To: Change Front Brake Pads (WK)

You have to machine the rotors on a brake lathe if you are not putting new ones on. All shops do this, without exception. The new pads will not bed properly and will never perform as new ones should without the cross hatched lathe pattern machined onto the rotors. It cost $10 to have this done at most places. Don't cut corners, like using sandpaper, if you want the brakes to perform as they should.
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