how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK) - Page 3 - Jeep Garage - Jeep Forum

Go Back   Jeep Garage - Jeep Forum > Jeep Platform Discussion > Grand Cherokee - WK > Technical Tips/DIY/How-To

Join Jeep Garage Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
  #25  
Old 06-03-2015, 05:42 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Gwardy is on a distinguished road
Re: how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK)

Good write up...

Check Amazon i just bought some for like $77 each and free shipping.

One think when you do a write up put how many miles you are at...for example I am like at 143,000 on a 2005 WK 5.7L Limited and mine were never changed and I see the OP posted this back in 2010 so do these things normally wear out that soon? But then again maybe he had 180K miles for all I know. But from the sounds of others they have done this pretty early.

I'll do a video when I do it and share it here...

Just did Propeller Shaft (custom) and the rear stabilizer bar was broken (who knows how long but I did that today, rear brakes and rotors done a few days ago, did front last year. I got to say I never owned a vehicle with so much maintenance and I don't really use it, or use it off road. So would I get a new Grand Cherokee; NOPE. Maybe a Dodge truck...just glad I can work on my own stuff but it's getting old working on the Jeep.

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #26  
Old 07-21-2015, 02:10 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
cindykuhn is on a distinguished road
Re: how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK)

We changed the rear, driver side hub and now it is leaking fluid? Did we mess something up? There was no O ring holding the rotor, but from prev comments I see this is normal.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 07-27-2015, 04:48 PM
launchpad's Avatar
Member
My Jeep: 2005 4.7L WK
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: british columbia
Posts: 12
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 1073
launchpad is on a distinguished road
Re: how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK)

Excelleny
Quote:
Originally Posted by hmmmm16417 View Post
This is my first HOW TO ever..... be gentle LOL - let me know if you dont' understand something or see a mistake

This takes about 1.5-2 hrs - (maybe quicker if you know what you are doing hahahahaha)

Tools required:
Breaker bar with 19mm socket (lug nuts)
13mm box wrench (caliper bolts)
18mm box wrench(hub bolts)
pry bar & BRASS hammer (removal of rotor)
Screw driver (seperating parts LOL)
Pliers (removing Emergency brake spring)
5/16" or 6mm box end wrench (to insert bolts in new hubs)
floor jack, jack stand (not required if you have two BEEFY friends that can hold your jeep up while you work LOL)

First, loosen your lugs(19mm) BEFORE you lift your jeep off the gound...it will be easier!


Then , jack up your jeep (for safety ...use a jack stand under axle to keep it from falling incase the hudraulic jack drifts)

after wheel is removed, this is what it looks like...


Then locate the bolts that hold the caliper on (13mm)


Once the caliper bolts are removed, push clip down and pry the caliper off the rotor




- Find a place to put the caliper so that the brake lines are NOT supporting the weight of it. I layed mine of the axle support

then.....Remove the O-ring that retains the rotor


Use a pry bar and a BRASS hammer to remove the rotor. make sure you have the pry bar between the rotor and the caliper bracket or you will bend the shield


This is what it will look like when rotor is off


Remove the (4) nuts that hold the Hub assembly on(18mm)...only three are shown in the pic, the other is located on the bottom side out of view


When the (4) bolts are removed, seperate the hub here... it makes it easier if you remove the spring from the emergency brake on the side that the cable is NOT attached


The previous step takes some working ...I used a flat head screw driver and a hammer to get it started and then used the brass hammer to tap on the bolts to push it the rest of the way out. This WILL pull your axle too, so be careful. this is the hardest part of the job. take your time and work one side at a time back and forth to pull it evenly!!!
Once you remove the hub, it will look like this-don't worry when you see a little bit of oil dripping, it's normal!


Insert the bolts into the new hubs with a 5/16" (or 6mm) until the threads are all the way in as shown. there is lock-tite already on the bolt.


THERE IS AN O-RING ON THE OLD HUB THAT YOU WILL NEED TO RE-USE IN THE NEW HUB ON THE SIDE THAT GOES INTO THE AXLE (ON THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER) - clean it and inspect it for nicks and damage. if it's good, insert it and rub a bit of oil on it . FEEL FREE TO REPLACE IT SINCE YOU ALREADY HAVE IT APART IF YOU THINK IT NEEDS IT.

Insert the new hub, it only goes in ONE WAY so as long as the bolts line up with the holes, you're good to go.

Once it is in, LIGHTLY tap it with the brass hammer to get it as far in as you can.
Then on the other side , you will see where the bolts came through. Insert the nuts finger tight.


then you will use these nuts to pull the hub tight. use a "star" pattern only a few turns at a time to make sure the hub is pulled tight and STRAIGHT! Make sure the gap shown in previous pic is closed

When it is tight , it will look like this


the new hub is installed


If you removed the EMERGENCY brake parts, make sure they are reinstalled now.

Re-install your rotor and put the O-ring back on , it keeps it in place for you


Re-install your caliper , make sure you put the bottom notch in first


Then re-install your bolts that hold the caliper on.

Then you are ready to put your wheel back on and tighten the lugs in a star pattern. I usually do them finger tight and just LIGHTLY with a wrench while it is still in the air and then tighten them hard after I let it down



Take it for a test drive and see if anything falls off LOL

Thanks to my son for posing his hands/arms for some of the pics. I let him do most of the work on the first side. I figured he's almost 16 so he needs to see what it's like to work on his own vehicle.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 03-22-2016, 10:24 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,010
Thanks: 0
Thanked 21 Times in 20 Posts
Rep Power: 8902
dmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond reputedmsfun has a reputation beyond repute
Re: how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK)

I just got mine on Amazon for $34 each with free shipping. BTW, the stealer wanted $460 each. The ones I got look identical to stock and use Asin bearings; OEM supplier in Japan for transmissions to many automakers.
__________________
2006 GC Overland QD II
5.7 Hemi, Modern Muscle 85 mm CNC ported TB, Apexi super voltage stabilizer, Billet Tech. Catch Can, Koni FSD shocks/struts, SRT8 sway bars, Cooper Discoverer SRX 255/65/17, Amsoil fluids, Diablosport Intune CMR tuned by Hemifever tuning.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 04-16-2016, 07:58 PM
hmmmm16417's Avatar
Member
My Jeep: 2006 4.7L WK
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 253
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 2910
hmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond reputehmmmm16417 has a reputation beyond repute
Re: how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK)

Glad to see this is still being used
__________________
2006 - 4.7L - midnight pearl blue - custom leather interior - K&N filter , rock Krawler 3.5 x factor lift, 17x9 Procomp 7031 wheels, 265/70/17 kenda klever's , tinted tails,black headlights, superchips programmer, and a few scrapes from over the years mishaps!
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 05-08-2016, 01:21 PM
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
DrFel is on a distinguished road
Re: how to change your rear wheel bearings (2006 WK)

So I am doing this same job. All seemed to be going well but the axle doesn't seem to be going in far enough when re-installing. It slides in and stops. I turn it and it goes in a little more but it seems like it needs to go in another inch or so. It feels like whatever it is up against is pretty solis. All I did was replace the hub assembly.

'08 Grand Cherokee 3.0l
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hemi ignition change in 2006? John_R Grand Cherokee - WK 23 04-27-2011 09:02 PM
Changing rear axle bearings mon_21 Troubleshooting/Problems Discussion 9 06-13-2009 09:57 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 - JeepGarage.Org
The Jeep Grand Cherokee Owners Community

JeepGarage.org is in no way associated with or endorsed by FCA US LLC. Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram, Mopar and SRT are registered trademarks of FCA US LLC.