This is my first HOW TO ever..... be gentle LOL - let me know if you dont' understand something or see a mistake
This takes about 1.5-2 hrs - (maybe quicker if you know what you are doing hahahahaha)
Breaker bar with 19mm socket (lug nuts)
13mm box wrench (caliper bolts)
18mm box wrench(hub bolts)
pry bar & BRASS hammer (removal of rotor)
Screw driver (seperating parts LOL)
Pliers (removing Emergency brake spring)
5/16" or 6mm box end wrench (to insert bolts in new hubs)
floor jack, jack stand (not required if you have two BEEFY friends that can hold your jeep up while you work LOL)
First, loosen your lugs(19mm) BEFORE you lift your jeep off the gound...it will be easier!
Then , jack up your jeep (for safety ...use a jack stand under axle to keep it from falling incase the hudraulic jack drifts)
after wheel is removed, this is what it looks like...
Then locate the bolts that hold the caliper on (13mm)
Once the caliper bolts are removed, push clip down and pry the caliper off the rotor
- Find a place to put the caliper so that the brake lines are NOT supporting the weight of it. I layed mine of the axle support
then.....Remove the O-ring that retains the rotor
Use a pry bar and a BRASS hammer to remove the rotor. make sure you have the pry bar between the rotor and the caliper bracket or you will bend the shield
This is what it will look like when rotor is off
Remove the (4) nuts that hold the Hub assembly on(18mm)...only three are shown in the pic, the other is located on the bottom side out of view
When the (4) bolts are removed, seperate the hub here... it makes it easier if you remove the spring from the emergency brake on the side that the cable is NOT attached
The previous step takes some working ...I used a flat head screw driver and a hammer to get it started and then used the brass hammer to tap on the bolts to push it the rest of the way out. This WILL pull your axle too, so be careful. this is the hardest part of the job. take your time and work one side at a time back and forth to pull it evenly!!!
Once you remove the hub, it will look like this-don't worry when you see a little bit of oil dripping, it's normal!
Insert the bolts into the new hubs with a 5/16" (or 6mm) until the threads are all the way in as shown. there is lock-tite already on the bolt.
THERE IS AN O-RING ON THE OLD HUB THAT YOU WILL NEED TO RE-USE IN THE NEW HUB ON THE SIDE THAT GOES INTO THE AXLE (ON THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER) - clean it and inspect it for nicks and damage. if it's good, insert it and rub a bit of oil on it . FEEL FREE TO REPLACE IT SINCE YOU ALREADY HAVE IT APART IF YOU THINK IT NEEDS IT.
Insert the new hub, it only goes in ONE WAY so as long as the bolts line up with the holes, you're good to go.
Once it is in, LIGHTLY tap it with the brass hammer to get it as far in as you can.
Then on the other side , you will see where the bolts came through. Insert the nuts finger tight.
then you will use these nuts to pull the hub tight. use a "star" pattern only a few turns at a time to make sure the hub is pulled tight and STRAIGHT! Make sure the gap shown in previous pic is closed
When it is tight , it will look like this
the new hub is installed
If you removed the EMERGENCY brake parts, make sure they are reinstalled now.
Re-install your rotor and put the O-ring back on , it keeps it in place for you
Re-install your caliper , make sure you put the bottom notch in first
Then re-install your bolts that hold the caliper on.
Then you are ready to put your wheel back on and tighten the lugs in a star pattern. I usually do them finger tight and just LIGHTLY with a wrench while it is still in the air and then tighten them hard after I let it down
Take it for a test drive and see if anything falls off LOL
Thanks to my son for posing his hands/arms for some of the pics. I let him do most of the work on the first side. I figured he's almost 16 so he needs to see what it's like to work on his own vehicle.