My 05 WK has been stalling lately, and i got a CEL with 0406 for a DTC code which is high EGR input voltage, so I figured Id swap it out. I paid 72 plus tax at my stealership along with a new hood prop.
Knowing what I know now, this is a 30 minute job, maybe a little less for those with a CAI. Ive tried to cut this process down to the bare essentials. I did a few other things like install a new hood prop, remove all the stock intake stuff getting ready for my Airaid, I also messed with serp belt and alternator, which is not needed for this.
First remove the intake components, which includes a 10mm bolt my the TB, a ring clamp on the TB, and I also took out the complete airbox, and stock intake plumbing by the headlight. I also unbolted the radiator overflow tank to make it easier to move, its just 1 bolt. Once you get all that out, you see this...
...to uplug it, you slide a small red piece in and to the right then unplug it.
new one, comes with a metal gasket and 2 bolts.
Then use a 8mm socket to undo the vent tube (circled in red above) that goes to the TB, it just slides out of the TB with little effort. Be careful with this little guy, its a small rubber gasket used to seal off the inlet of the TB. I tried to slide mine, but it was stuck to the tube, so of course it tore. I had to reuse it or else the tube is loose, so now I get a hiss where its leaking. Gotta pick up one at the Jeep place on monday.
Next use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts on the EGR. The inside one will come all the way out, the outer one will go until it hits the alternator. I tried all I could to move the alternator and it wont move far enough. I then used a dremel to cut the bolt between the EGR and head, be careful. Make sure the bolt is lose enough so you can turn it by hand or with pliers once the EGR is off.
Cut...I covered the hole up so no dust or metal shavings would get in there.
Then reinstall using the metal gasket that comes with it. I used a new bolt that was included, and a M8 x 1.25, 16mm bolt fomr Lowes. Another member said use a 20mm, but I bought both and the 16mm fit perfect, mine had a 13mm hex head.
Once its installed, reinstall the vent tube with the 8mm bolts, dont forget the paper gasket at the EGR and the small rubber gasket up at the TB.
Jeep really screwed up on this. There is literally less than 2 threads holding this thing on, all they had to do was make it 2-3mm shorter and it would be much easier.
Hope that helps anybody that might try to do this themselves. I really enjoy working on cars. I havent done much to my Jeep but Im about to start doing some stuff so Ill post up some more threads when I do them. I posted my 2 previous projects that i had before the Jeep. I did pretty much all the work on them except the engine build.
My turbod G35 coupe. Started out with a vortech supercharger then went with a GT35R single turbo, full coilover suspension with upgraded control arms, fully customized big brake kit F&R, several different sets of rims, and different stereo setups, pretty much my fav car. I won 1st place at nopi nationals 2 years in a row with it.
My 96 GT35R, built motor KA 240.
Knowing what I know now, this is a 30 minute job, maybe a little less for those with a CAI. Ive tried to cut this process down to the bare essentials. I did a few other things like install a new hood prop, remove all the stock intake stuff getting ready for my Airaid, I also messed with serp belt and alternator, which is not needed for this.
First remove the intake components, which includes a 10mm bolt my the TB, a ring clamp on the TB, and I also took out the complete airbox, and stock intake plumbing by the headlight. I also unbolted the radiator overflow tank to make it easier to move, its just 1 bolt. Once you get all that out, you see this...
...to uplug it, you slide a small red piece in and to the right then unplug it.
new one, comes with a metal gasket and 2 bolts.
Then use a 8mm socket to undo the vent tube (circled in red above) that goes to the TB, it just slides out of the TB with little effort. Be careful with this little guy, its a small rubber gasket used to seal off the inlet of the TB. I tried to slide mine, but it was stuck to the tube, so of course it tore. I had to reuse it or else the tube is loose, so now I get a hiss where its leaking. Gotta pick up one at the Jeep place on monday.
Next use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts on the EGR. The inside one will come all the way out, the outer one will go until it hits the alternator. I tried all I could to move the alternator and it wont move far enough. I then used a dremel to cut the bolt between the EGR and head, be careful. Make sure the bolt is lose enough so you can turn it by hand or with pliers once the EGR is off.
Cut...I covered the hole up so no dust or metal shavings would get in there.
Then reinstall using the metal gasket that comes with it. I used a new bolt that was included, and a M8 x 1.25, 16mm bolt fomr Lowes. Another member said use a 20mm, but I bought both and the 16mm fit perfect, mine had a 13mm hex head.
Once its installed, reinstall the vent tube with the 8mm bolts, dont forget the paper gasket at the EGR and the small rubber gasket up at the TB.
Jeep really screwed up on this. There is literally less than 2 threads holding this thing on, all they had to do was make it 2-3mm shorter and it would be much easier.
Hope that helps anybody that might try to do this themselves. I really enjoy working on cars. I havent done much to my Jeep but Im about to start doing some stuff so Ill post up some more threads when I do them. I posted my 2 previous projects that i had before the Jeep. I did pretty much all the work on them except the engine build.
My turbod G35 coupe. Started out with a vortech supercharger then went with a GT35R single turbo, full coilover suspension with upgraded control arms, fully customized big brake kit F&R, several different sets of rims, and different stereo setups, pretty much my fav car. I won 1st place at nopi nationals 2 years in a row with it.
My 96 GT35R, built motor KA 240.