Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

How To: Install a new EGR

41K views 115 replies 38 participants last post by  dmsfun 
#1 · (Edited)
My 05 WK has been stalling lately, and i got a CEL with 0406 for a DTC code which is high EGR input voltage, so I figured Id swap it out. I paid 72 plus tax at my stealership along with a new hood prop.

Knowing what I know now, this is a 30 minute job, maybe a little less for those with a CAI. Ive tried to cut this process down to the bare essentials. I did a few other things like install a new hood prop, remove all the stock intake stuff getting ready for my Airaid, I also messed with serp belt and alternator, which is not needed for this.

First remove the intake components, which includes a 10mm bolt my the TB, a ring clamp on the TB, and I also took out the complete airbox, and stock intake plumbing by the headlight. I also unbolted the radiator overflow tank to make it easier to move, its just 1 bolt. Once you get all that out, you see this...

...to uplug it, you slide a small red piece in and to the right then unplug it.

new one, comes with a metal gasket and 2 bolts.


Then use a 8mm socket to undo the vent tube (circled in red above) that goes to the TB, it just slides out of the TB with little effort. Be careful with this little guy, its a small rubber gasket used to seal off the inlet of the TB. I tried to slide mine, but it was stuck to the tube, so of course it tore. I had to reuse it or else the tube is loose, so now I get a hiss where its leaking. Gotta pick up one at the Jeep place on monday.


Next use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts on the EGR. The inside one will come all the way out, the outer one will go until it hits the alternator. I tried all I could to move the alternator and it wont move far enough. I then used a dremel to cut the bolt between the EGR and head, be careful. Make sure the bolt is lose enough so you can turn it by hand or with pliers once the EGR is off.


Cut...I covered the hole up so no dust or metal shavings would get in there.


Then reinstall using the metal gasket that comes with it. I used a new bolt that was included, and a M8 x 1.25, 16mm bolt fomr Lowes. Another member said use a 20mm, but I bought both and the 16mm fit perfect, mine had a 13mm hex head.


Once its installed, reinstall the vent tube with the 8mm bolts, dont forget the paper gasket at the EGR and the small rubber gasket up at the TB.


Jeep really screwed up on this. There is literally less than 2 threads holding this thing on, all they had to do was make it 2-3mm shorter and it would be much easier.


Hope that helps anybody that might try to do this themselves. I really enjoy working on cars. I havent done much to my Jeep but Im about to start doing some stuff so Ill post up some more threads when I do them. I posted my 2 previous projects that i had before the Jeep. I did pretty much all the work on them except the engine build.

My turbod G35 coupe. Started out with a vortech supercharger then went with a GT35R single turbo, full coilover suspension with upgraded control arms, fully customized big brake kit F&R, several different sets of rims, and different stereo setups, pretty much my fav car. I won 1st place at nopi nationals 2 years in a row with it.




My 96 GT35R, built motor KA 240.

 
See less See more
13
#4 ·
after driving 50 miles today. ive noticed a few things that are wierd.

1. i dont get the dead spot that i used to get when accelerating, the throttle response is crisp.

2. i dont get the hard clunk i used to get when letting off the gas at around 40mph. it used to feel rough on downshifts.

3. i dont get an erratic idle when slowing down to a stop. the rpms used to drop around 500 and was unstable. now it just goes to 700 and stops.

im not claiming the EGR fixed those things, but i didnt change anything else. ill report back in a week with another update.
 
#7 ·
well, after about 300 miles it still runs perfect. not one single stall or stutter, no hard shifts, and no dead spots. unbelievable. all this time it ws the EGR causing all those problems.
X2. No issues in 4 weeks since EGR valve was renewed. Gas mileage back up to original levels. :D

If there are engine performance issues driving you nuts, no codes, and >40K miles on the odometer, change it. It's the hidden mechanical gremlin. :thumbsup:

Dealer didn't believe me; I shamed them into changing it. Sometimes, the entire world of knowledge is not in the StarScan tool. :p
 
#8 ·
Ok yea getting the EGR off is a BEEYATCH!!! The bottom bolt was a PITA. I didnt have to cut it, though. I did wiggle it out (without screwing up the head thread) and it was fun putting the new bolt on. I ended up shaving down the new bolt a few threads and she went on nice n smooth! Now I gotta throw on my CC and I'm good to go at 56k! Hopefully my MPGs will go up, although I need some new spark plugs on my Hemi! Thanks for the write up, +rep for you! :D
 
#17 ·
How do you trim the bolt? With what?
 
#19 ·
I need me one of those! LOL
 
#21 ·
Id like to add my story. Yes, the alternator was in the way of getting the bolt out. I didnt have cutter so I had to loosen the serpentine belt, then the alternator. After all said and done I installed the new EGR and was very disappointed that the CEL did not turn off. I still got the same code. However, I instantly noticed the throttle difference in the Jeep. It had more power getting up. Depressing the petal partially and mid get up depressed it fully and it got up more.

However, after leaving my friends house I decided to grab a quick meal through the Chic Fil A drive through. While waiting to get to the window I decided to run a DTC report. I turned the motor off and ran it, same code.

But then after about 3 minutes the CEL went off and hasnt come back on since.
Looks like it worked! :rolleyes:

Now I get to replace the power steering pump Saturday:mad:
 
#24 · (Edited)
So is there an official parts list? I'm FINALLY going to do this at 83k miles.

2007 5.7l
 
#29 ·
Just changed all my plugs, they were pretty bad, gapped wayyy off at .070 - .075... I replaced them with copper gapped at .045 and just changed out the EGR valve while I was in there. I didn't have to cut the bolt or move the alt, I just managed to wiggle it around until I got it, same with putting the new one on I didn't have to trim the bolt either.

I also just lubed the blue rubber o-ring and slid it back into place without tearing it.

Just gettin it all finished up, hoping it runs better.

Next week is PCV, a thorough TB cleaning and catch can and diff and transfer case changes! Fun..
 
#31 ·
Yeah, this thread helped a lot. I'm glad it was here so I knew what I was getting into exactly.

It fired right up, idled nice and smooth. And runs much better. Although I have an exhaust leak at the manifold. I have been trying to research if 6.1L manifolds with bolt up to a 5.7L with little mention of anything online. I saw a couple LX guys with it done, but nobody breaks it down in detail, which gaskets to use etc.. I'll keep looking.
 
#33 ·
Yeah, this thread helped a lot. I'm glad it was here so I knew what I was getting into exactly.

It fired right up, idled nice and smooth. And runs much better. Although I have an exhaust leak at the manifold. I have been trying to research if 6.1L manifolds with bolt up to a 5.7L with little mention of anything online. I saw a couple LX guys with it done, but nobody breaks it down in detail, which gaskets to use etc.. I'll keep looking.
I have 6.1 Exhaust Manifolds. They aren't installed yet.

I want to get this EGR Valve done with. Just bought a new key off eBay and had to program it.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top