Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

How To: Install VLEDs Dual Color Turn Signals

70K views 271 replies 56 participants last post by  Rkirk 
#1 ·
Here is what I did and how I did it...You can obviously do it however you want as this is only how I did it and should be only used as a guide!


Parts Used:

VLEDs Dual Color Changing Turn Signal LEDs
VLEDS 3ohm Resistor and Splicing Clips
2 Sheet Metal Screws

Tools Used:

Wire Cutters
SlipJoint Pliers
NeedleNose Pliers
Screw Drivers (Flat and Phillips)
Drill with Metal Bit


Ok, Lets get started.

First, I removed the turn signal socket from the headlight housing by turning it 1/4 turn and pulling it out. I removed the OEM turn signal bulb. I then took the wire cutters and carefully removed about 4 to 5 inches of the tape/casing that is wrapped around the wires going into the socket itself. *I didnt take any pics of this step, But Im sure you can figure it out*

I have 3 wires going into the socket, a GREEN, a BLACK and a BLACK/PURPLE. We are ONLY going to be working with the GREEN and the BLACK wires...Leaving the BLACK/PURPLE alone.

I inserted the BLACK wire into the one side of the slicing clip and then inserted one of the resistor wires into the other. It doesnt matter what resistor wire you use. Once I had both in, I took the SlipJoint pliers and squeezed the metal splicer down. Before I closed the clip, I made sure that the metal splicer went into the wires. With that checked, I shut the splicing clip!



Now I repeated the above step for the GREEN wire.

I then moved to do the other side and I repeated all the same steps above. I found that this side was sooooooooo much easier to do.

I did a quick double check to make sure all the splicing clips are completely shut.



Ok, Once I finished both sides I plugged in the VLEDs LEDs. BEFORE I put them back into the headlight housing, I tested them out. If they arent working, pull out the bulb(s), turn them 180degrees and reinsert them.



I now put the LEDs back into the headlight housing being careful not to tangle/twist up the wires.



Now on to mounting the resistors. Obviously you can do whatever you want here, but Ill explain what I did anyway. For this I decided to attach them directly to the lip going around my engine compartment (not sure how to exactly describe it). I wanted the resistors to be on metal to help the heat dissipate since I heard they get VERY hot. For this reason I decided against double sided tape. So, I drilled a hole using a metal drill bit and attached the resistor directly to the lip using a sheet metal screw.





Then I did the same for the other side.

With all that done, I stood back and admired my work!









YOUTUBE VIDEO CAN BE FOUND HERE

I am sure I will be editing this just in case I missed something or whatever. If you have an questions/comments please feel free to ask.

Also, another thank you to Scott(saleen032) for all his help on the phone!!!!!!!!

*This is only to be used as a guide and I take no responsibility for your actions*
 
See less See more
10
#115 · (Edited)
What k HID's do you have jason?

Edit**
Nevermind I just read your sig.
 
#118 ·
hahaha "this is for that PITA, NATE!!"
 
#120 ·
Jason I am Honored!!!!! That's the nicest thing anyone has ever done for me.....















Can you take a vider from about 100' out in front with the hid's on and off? make sure you stand dead center and hold the cam with your left hand while doing a 1 hand pushup with a fat chick on your back please??? LOL J/K but thanks a lot J!!!!

+reps

**EDIT** I can't +rep ya. says I have to spread some around first.....
 
#121 ·
I ordered the 48 LED ones from AA instead of the 60... Half the price! :D

And my halo projector fogs are on they're way! (same lights as WK)
 
#123 ·
nice man! Yeah the 60's are def nicer but payin 30 for each bulb is a tough pill to swallow! Although if I had an SRT I wouldnt think twice :D
 
#124 ·
^^^Man up. Stop being cheap!!! LOL J/K Bro....
 
#126 ·
hahah Nate I will spend the money when I get a nicer car! Hard to believe its 6 years old already!
 
#127 ·
Word My baby will be a year on the 31st. another 2 years and SRT here I come. I'm tired of thede damn Dodge and ford pickups rolling up on me trying to get me to run. When they see the center dual exhaust 5" tips or that low ass bumper just digging into the street in their mirror they'll know the deal and fall back.....
 
#128 ·
hahaha I hear ya...Although I kinda like rollin slow sometimes and watching a tard try to race me... I just turn the ipod up lol
 
#130 ·
^^^ you get those installed yet bro???

LOL
 
#133 ·
i bought the 6 ohm 50 watt resistors will it still work for my front turn signals?
 
#134 ·
I couldn't get mine to function correctly with the 6-ohm resistors - I had to use 3-ohm ones. However, that was with my old V-LED's bulbs. I dunno if the AL bulbs will work with 6-ohm resistors or not.
 
#135 ·
i found this on VLED'S website so it should work?
Load Resistor Kits:
6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal wire to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing, no flashing or burnt out bulb indications. One resistor is required for each turn signal bulb. Kit includes two resistors and 4 gel filled moisture resistant splice taps
 
#137 ·
i found this on VLED'S website so it should work?
Load Resistor Kits:
6 Ohm, 50 Watt resistors can be connected across the turn signal wire to simulate the load of a regular filament bulb (2 Amp load). This will solve LED related turn signal problems such as hyper flashing, no flashing or burnt out bulb indications. One resistor is required for each turn signal bulb. Kit includes two resistors and 4 gel filled moisture resistant splice taps
Yes, that is all well and good, but us Jeep guys who have actually done this mod can tell you unequivocally that 6-ohm resistors will NOT work. It will solve the hyper-flashing issue, but the color-changing stuff will act all weird. The 3-ohm resistors fix both the hyper-flashing AND the color-changing misbehavior.

Like I said before, this is all in reference to the V-LED's bulbs. I recommend the autolumination bulbs myself. All I did for those was to unplug my V-LED's bulbs and plug in my autolumination bulbs. They might work just fine with 6-ohm resistors but I already have 3-ohm resistors installed and it's working fine. Why fix what isn't broken???
 
#136 ·
i wond if i should try it ? will i harm anything?
 
#144 ·
I went with the AMBER/WHITE 60 LED option from autolumination that Lips suggested.

http://jeepgarage.org/showpost.php?p=158311&postcount=81

I used a 3 ohm resistor:



i took some vids IDK WTF but I got like 320 x 240 and even thats fuzzy LOL out of my HD camera :lol: I owe you some vid of the switchbacks switchingback.
LOL, "switchbacks switchingback". Love the wording...

As always, excellent job Rob. Good to see that there are plenty of people on this forum that take their wiring serious (you did scrape the paint on your ground wire, right?). Can't wait to see the vid, but if your bulbs look anything like mine, I'm sure they are SICK!
 
#145 · (Edited)
BTW, I think I posted this elsewhere, but I wanted to share some links with you guys. If you need resistors for your LED projects, don't spend the money on the V-LED's. Try these instead:

25W 25-Ohm (Running Lights) - http://www.newark.com/vishay-dale/rh02525r00fe02/resistor-wirewound-25ohm-25w-1/dp/41K9114

50W 3-Ohm (4-Bulb Turn Signals) - http://www.newark.com/vishay-dale/rh0503r000fe02/resistor-wirewound-3ohm-50w-1/dp/65K1887

50W 6-Ohm (2-Bulb Turn Signals) - http://www.newark.com/vishay-dale/rh0506r000fe02/resistor-wirewound-6ohm-50w-1/dp/41K9174


These are the EXACT SAME resistors that V-LED's sells you. They even fit into the resistor mounting plates that V-LED's sells. Sure, they don't come with wires attached, but if you're like me, you probably wanna do something custom anyways. And if them adding wires is worth doubling the cost, then buy from V-LED's.

Newark is a great company. Usually there are no minimum quantities so you could order single resistors if you wanted to. And their shipping is dirt cheap! You pay for ground shipping and they ship it to you FedEx 2-day. Great company...
 
#146 · (Edited)
son of a ......... i bought a handful, 3 and 6 from autolumination. and they are all the same as your link.
yours are about 40% of the price of the big boys. DANG IT.





Thanks Jason.

Hey i didnt do a seperate ground. as I was tapping and soldering I just kept on going......but I notice something. you cant see it with the naked eye but when i just have my blinkers on, the bulb strobes white then turns to amber.

here is a vid, garage closed. autolumination bulb on right only. stealth chrome bulb on left.


Jason, can you look at your and see if they do the same thing. or maybe an external ground would be better........ you cannot see it with the eye in regular light.

 
#147 ·
son of a ......... i bought a handful, 3 and 6 from autolumination. and they are all the same as your link.
yours are about 40% of the price of the big boys. DANG IT.





Thanks Jason.
LOL, ur welcome Rob. I have a small stash of them now for my projects I am always doing. My brother has finally decided to concede that all of the LED stuff I've put on my Jeep looks pretty cool so now we are doing it to all of his vehicles.

As an aside, I have to say that my '98 5.9 Jeep is a way bigger PITA as far as LED lighting. It has this stupid "Lamp Outage Module" for the taillights and it is pretty finicky. To give you an idea, I have 3 resistors for EACH taillight just to keep it from throwing a "Rear Lamp Failure" message. Damn thing is too smart for it's own good, LOL...
 
#151 ·
Correct, probably because the V-LED's shut the white portion of the light off entirely when it went into blink mode. The autolumination doesn't shut them off.

Basically, each individual LED on the bulb has 2 inputs. One we will call input "W" and one we will call input "A". When there is 12 volts on W, the bulb is white. However, when you put a signal on A, it changes the color of the LED to amber.

V-LED's bulbs don't have the two separate inputs to each LED. Instead, half of the LED's are nominated to be white-only and the other half are amber-only. Bulb is less bright this way, but it uses simpler circuitry, thus the bulb is cheaper and easier to make (tho u'd never know it with V-LED's prices).

@Rob, what you'll notice is this is only a problem when the running lights are NOT on. I think what is happening is when 12 volts is initially applied to the bulb, it gets confused on whether it is supposed to be white or amber, so it takes it a split-second to figure it out. That's what you're seeing.

I think I have a solution, but I wanna try it out first to see if it works before I send anyone else on a wild goose chase...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top