Tips: WK Brake Rotors
Just got done doing mine and thought I'd cover some of the "sticking points" you will more than likely come across that weren't covered in some of the other FAQs on here.
#1: If this is the first time you've taken off the rotors and/or you do a lot of offroading or live in a salt state your rotors will probably be rusted to the hubs. Best way to get them loose is the first liberally spray some PB Blaster in the wheel stud holes and around the center hub hole. I sprayed, then rotated the rotor half a turn and sprayed again. Give it about 10-15 minutes to soak in. Now you can try a deadblow hammer, but I'm sure you'll see that doesn't do much. I ended up using a medium pry bar and used a "bouncing" technique when prying. Basically instead of just prying with a ton of force, I use a moderate amount of force and "bounce" from no pressure to moderate pressure on the pry surface. On that note DO NOT apply excessive force to the caliper bracket ears, these are cast and will break if repeatedly stressed. I ended up wedging the bar inbetween the rotor and the top of the hub, there is about a quarter inch space/ledge to use. Just be patient and reapply PB if needed, but they will eventually "pop". Like the faqs point out you can remove the rubber oring, but for me it just came right off with the rotor. Don't worry too much if you end up bending the backing plate, just remember to straighten it back out before you put everything back together and test spin the rotor to make sure there is no contact between the 2.
#2: The rears have an internal ebrake shoe that contacts the inside of the rotor. To make your life tremendously easier remove the rubber inspection plug on the back side of the rotor backing plate and notice the geared ring inside. Operates the same as a regular shoe brake system. turn it so it screws the 2 pieces together to release the shoe tension on the inside of the rotor. You'll still have the hub rust to deal with, but now you wont have the additional hold from the shoes spaced all the way out.
#3: When reinstalling the rotors apply a thin layer of grease, doesn't matter what kind to the mating surfaces of the hub and inside the rotor hat. This way next time you need to pull them off they wont be rusted/stuck. I cleaned mine up with a wire brush first to remove the rusty areas just so I'd have a clean surface to work with.
Pics and editing to be added this weekend.
XJs: 12(All 4.0 4x4s)
CJs: 2(305 & FI 4.0 swaps)
TJs: 1(Rubi - currently in garage)
WKs:1(05 Hemi - currently in driveway)
Point of the story is once you start you can never quit owning the damn things...