DISCLAIMER: I, NAND12, AM NOT IN ANY WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES TO VEHICLES AND/OR INJURIES SUSTAINED AS A RESULT OF FOLLOWING THIS PROCEDURE. IT IS MERELY A GUIDE TO ILLUSTRATE THE MANNER IN WHICH TO REPLACE A COMPONENT. I AM NOT A JEEP CERTIFIED TECHNICIAN NOR AM I A MECHANIC. BY REFERRING TO THIS PROCEDURE, YOU AGREE NOT TO HOLD ME LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR INJURIES THAT MAY OCCUR. ALWAYS TAKE THE APPROPRIATE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WEAR PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT.
Bolt/Stud Color Legend
Picture of Tools/Suggested Items (not comprehensive, there are several items missing from this picture but it gives you an idea on what kind of tools you need):
OK guys, here's the procedure in order to remove and replace the driver's side exhaust manifold and gasket. It's not too bad (I am a 20 year old college student and was very hesitant to attempt this but I was able to complete the project successfully with few hangups) of a job so don't be intimidated by it. Please make sure that you have gloves and safety glasses because you are working around sharp, filthy components (I have several cuts and bruises from squeezing my arm into tight places) and if you do cut yourself, flush out the cut well with soap and water and apply antibiotic ointment with bandaid to prevent infection (and make sure you're up to date on your tetanus shot!!). First of all, we need to get some clearance around the manifold:
1. Remove battery by disconnecting both cables (disconnect negative battery cable first, then positive battery cable) and removing hold down bracket nut (located at the front of the battery tray right behind the driver's side headlight). All bolts in this step are 10mm and you will need a 10mm deep socket (1/4" drive), extension, and 1/4" ratchet.
2. Remove 3 10mm bolts holding down junction box and wiring harness (2 will be located right near the fender and the third will be closer to the engine and in a recessed area. Lift up firmly to clear mounting studs and position aside. You will need a 10mm gear wrench, 10mm deep socket, extension, and 1/4" ratchet.
3. Undo red clip on evaporative purge control solenoid harness connector and remove.
4. Slide evaporative purge control solenoid off of mounting post and position aside.
5. Unclip large wiring harness connector from side of junction box and position aside.
Picture for Reference:
Now we are ready to begin working on the actual manifold:
1. To start off, we need to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield, which is held on with 4 10mm bolts. You will need a 10mm gearwrench to do this, as there is not enough clearance to use a standard ratchet and socket. Don't worry if you can't see the lower bolts, just feel for them and they should be easy to find/remove.
Picture for Reference:
2. Now you should be able to see the manifold and the top mounting studs and bolts. Starting at the front of the manifold, remove the 13mm top stud, 13mm bottom stud, the 4 10mm middle bolts (the bottom ones can be removed by feeling for them), and the rear 12mm studs. The front 13mm studs and the first bottom 10mm bolt are removeable either standing up or lying under the front bumper looking directly backwards. I used a 13mm gearwrench for the 13mm studs and a 10mm deep socket with a 1/4" ratchet for the 10mm bolts. Lastly, to remove the 2 rear 12mm studs, use a 12mm gearwrench on the top stud and a 12mm deep socket and 1/4" ratchet for the bottom stud (again feel for it and you will find it with ease). If any of the bolts/studs are difficult to remove because they are tight, spray them down with PBlaster (you won't be able to get the bolts totally soaked because of lack of clearance and awkward angles) and use a 3/8" ratchet with a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter to provide more torque (because the 3/8" ratchet has a longer handle).
Pictures for Reference:
At this point, all the bolts holding the manifold to the engine should be out:
3. To remove the manifold, you will have to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold flange. You will need a 15mm socket (3/8" or 1/2" but if you have a 1/2" be aware that you will need an adapter to use a 3/8" extension and ratchet because the 1/2" extension is too thick to fit in the pipe area), a set of 3/8" extensions, a 3/8" ratchet, and a 3/8" breaker bar. Begin by attaching the breaker bar to the set of extensions (you will need it to be about 10-12" long) and finish off the setup with the 15mm socket (with adapter if necessary). The bolts will be tight, so use PBlaster or equivalent penetrant to dissolve any corrosion. Break both bolts loose with the breaker bar and give them a couple of more turns to make it easier to remove. Remove breaker bar, attach ratchet, and finish removal of both 15mm bolts (be careful as the nuts and bolts may fall in your face and cause injury).
Picture for Reference:
4. To remove the manifold from the vehicle, gently feed it towards the front of the vehicle by moving any wiring harnesses and/or hoses out of its path. Tilt the manifold downward and remove from the large space between the radiator and accessory belt drive.
Picture of Removed Manifold & Gasket:
You can see that the first and last ports of the old gasket have visible signs of carbon whereas the middle two ports don't:
This indicates that the manifold is warped and can be further verified by placing a ruler against the manifold to check for deflection.
The following is a complete list of parts and quantities required (including all mounting hardware):
Quan. Part # Description
1 53013599AB Left Exhaust Manifold
1 53034029AD Left Exhaust Manifold Gasket
2 6508219AA Stud (13mm)
2 6508220AA Stud (12mm)
4 6507746AA Exhaust Manifold Bolt (10mm)
2 6503231 Exhaust Manifold Flange Nut
2 6505699AA Exhaust Manifold Flange Bolt (15mm)
To begin reassembly, position the new gasket against the new manifold (it can only go on one way so make sure that the shape of the gasket matches the shape of the manifold) and loosely secure with zipties or knitting thread to prevent it from moving around.
5. Slide manifold/gasket assembly into place by reversing step 4 instructions. Make sure that the manifold flange seats inside the exhaust pipe!
6. Starting with the REAR of the manifold, begin threading in the studs and bolts (In Order: 12mm studs, 10mm bolts, 13mm studs). Again, accomplish this through feel and it shouldn't be too difficult. Don't tighten any of the bolts at this point, just thread them in enough to hold the manifold against the engine. After all the bolts/studs are in, cut the zipties/knitting thread and remove them completely.
7. Have an assistant hold the 2 exhaust pipe nuts in place on the manifold flange while you thread the 15mm bolts through them. Once the nuts have securely caught the threads on the bolt, the assistant need not hold the nuts any longer because the tabs on the nuts will keep them in place while you continue to tighten (don't tighten them all the way down yet!).
8. Now starting with the 4 10mm bolts and working your way outwards, tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs (impossible to get a torque wrench in there, so tighten bolts until they stop moving with a 3/8" ratchet as this should be about right) of torque.
9. Tighten the 2 15mm exhaust bolts until you cannot turn them any more with a 3/8" ratchet. These 2 bolts need to be extremely tight so I used an impact wrench for the final tightening. If you don't have one, again tighten as much as you possibly can.
10. Place heat shield over the 4 studs on the manifold and secure with 10mm nuts. Tighten the nuts with a 10mm gearwrench until they're relatively tight (don't strain and try and crank on the nuts until they won't move). Now, back off a half turn on each of the nuts to allow for thermal expansion of the heat shield.
11. Reinstall all removed components by reversing instructions in first few steps. Check and recheck all electrical connections and hoses.
12. Start vehicle, check for leaks, noises, smells, and MIL. If everything checks out OK, you're all done!
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