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  #1  
Old 06-28-2012, 02:39 AM
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Air-dam removal

The manual suggests removing the air-dam for off-roading. So I took the air-dam off just to prove I can do it. It is quite a fiddle the first time. Took off the 7 quarter-term fasteners. I know I had 7 before I got that notorious afterthought of a front hook installed but now I have only 6. That just strengthens my lack of faith in car mechanics. I found that forcing a screwdriver between the lugs on the air-dam and the fascia made it easier to get the lugs out. Putting it back was easier than getting it off.

See the photos. All I can say is, do they really expect us to tear around the bush like that? They have got to be joking. There is an exposed water bottle and wiring on one side, something that looks like an electric pump and wiring exposed on the other side and the radiator and oil cooler in the middle protected only by a square tubular member. Sure, the approach angle is improved but not by much. My air-dam won't be coming off. I would rather sustain damage to a throw away piece of plastic than the radiator and oil cooler.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:53 AM
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Re: Air-dam removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
The manual suggests removing the air-dam for off-roading. So I took the air-dam off just to prove I can do it. It is quite a fiddle the first time. Took off the 7 quarter-term fasteners. I know I had 7 before I got that notorious afterthought of a front hook installed but now I have only 6. That just strengthens my lack of faith in car mechanics. I found that forcing a screwdriver between the lugs on the air-dam and the fascia made it easier to get the lugs out. Putting it back was easier than getting it off.

See the photos. All I can say is, do they really expect us to tear around the bush like that? They have got to be joking. There is an exposed water bottle and wiring on one side, something that looks like an electric pump and wiring exposed on the other side and the radiator and oil cooler in the middle protected only by a square tubular member. Sure, the approach angle is improved but not by much. My air-dam won't be coming off. I would rather sustain damage to a throw away piece of plastic than the radiator and oil cooler.
...and the wheel well liners...they would not last a second. Totally agree Bob.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2012, 03:51 AM
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Re: Air-dam removal

That 3rd picture is the EPAS (Electronic Power Assisted Steering) and would not be a good thing to damage. I doubt I will ever need or want to remove the airdam as it does expose many expensive items to damage.
Makes you wonder why they suggest it
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2012, 05:43 AM
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Re: Air-dam removal

It would appear that once that air dam is removed, you can get clear access to the recovery hook.
I guess the procedure would be:-
1. Get bogged so mud and sand come upto the airdam.
2. Dig the airdam out.
3. Remove the airdam
4. Fit the snatch strap
5. Pull the car out of the bog
6. Remove the snatch strap
7. Refit the airdam, with the remaining 3 lugs because the others got dropped in the dirt.
8. THROW A TANTRUM because you are filthy dirty, lost the skin off your knuckles, and clothes are ruined and fedup with wife's screaming at you.
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2012, 05:29 PM
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Re: Air-dam removal

Looks like there is good access to remove the recovery hook once the air dam is removed and maybe cut a short section off the end of the hook - I think if the end was maybe 10mm shorter it would make all the difference to getting a snatch strap on and off but still mean that the strap would not fall off during recovery.

Something to think about...
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:15 AM
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Re: Air-dam removal

I was thinking more like grinding a bit of an angle on the first bolt to provide a smoother entry. Also, there is probably a little play in the holes so if the bolts are loosened, it may be possible to pull the hook slightly forward then re-torque.

A few days later... I had another look at this. Access to the bolts is difficult but I improved things slightly by rotating the offending bolt so that the flats are vertical. Actually I was surprised that the bolt wasn't very tight at all. I put that down to our dear mechanics and true to form, I noticed that 4 plastic rivets holding the shrouds on were replaced by self tappers. Don't you just love them?

By the way, removing and installing the air-dam is much easier with some lubricant on the lugs. I used vaseline.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:32 AM
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Re: Air-dam removal

If anyone is interested, the quarter-turn fasteners are called "bumper cover retainers" part #68033794AA. I just ordered a pack of 15 on fleebay for $20.98 AUD including shipping to Oz. For that price I couldn't be bothered explaining what I wanted at the stealership only to find they had to order them in.
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Ordered 9 Nov 2011 - Delivered 3:30pm Friday 13 April 2012
Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 3L CRD, Black Forest Green Pearl, Quadra-lift, Off-road Adventure II, Front Recovery Hook, Mopar Tow Bar, Mopar Rock Rails, 150A Projecta Battery Isolator, Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller, Bridgestone D697 265/60R18 LT, Kimberley Kamper Special Edition
MudMap M7 off/on road sat nav, Chief front recovery hooks "chrome", Chief 3mm bash plate
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:40 PM
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Re: Air-dam removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
If anyone is interested, the quarter-turn fasteners are called "bumper cover retainers" part #68033794AA. I just ordered a pack of 15 on fleebay for $20.98 AUD including shipping to Oz. For that price I couldn't be bothered explaining what I wanted at the stealership only to find they had to order them in.
The quarter-turn fasteners arrived today. They came from Clipsandfasteners.com . They have other GC stuff at http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Chr...and%20cherokee . I'll be ordering a few other clips to store away. I'm sick of those dealership drongos who rip out the original clips and replace half of them with whatever they find lying around the floor of the garage.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:02 AM
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Re: Air-dam removal

I still think it's a dumb idea to have to remove the air-dam for off-roading but I learnt the hard way. I came over a sand berm that I didn't see, going a little too fast, maybe 20-30kph. See the photo. The nose dug in and sand flew over the bonnet. I checked for damage. The lower grill was cracked in a few places but otherwise the air-dam seemed OK. The two covers over the tow openings had popped off. Then I saw bits of black plastic lying around. The air inlet baffle that sits behind the air-dam and connects it to the chassis with the quarter-turn fasteners, had disintegrated. It is made of a plastic quite a bit more brittle than the air-dam maybe deliberately so. Luckily the air-dam was still quite secure without it.

I priced the air inlet baffle (Part #51657067AA) locally. One quote was over $300 and a couple of weeks later $268.64 at another dealer. So I did the now usual thing and ordered from the States. RTpartsco have it listed for $62.30USD http://rtpartsco.com/parts/catalog/p...ducts_id=38933 . With shipping it came to $111.82AUD on PayPal. That's less than half the local asking price and I may have had to wait months.

The lower grill I fixed quite neatly with a hot glue gun so it now looks as new. The air inlet baffle is in transit. The lesson is, either go slower or take off the air-dam.

BTW, while on the beach I got a nice pic of a couple of FA18s coming in for a landing at Williamstown RAAF base.
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File Type: jpg _7180524.jpg (412.0 KB, 65 views)
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2012, 08:58 PM
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Re: Air-dam removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
I still think it's a dumb idea to have to remove the air-dam for off-roading but I learnt the hard way. I came over a sand berm that I didn't see, going a little too fast, maybe 20-30kph. See the photo. The nose dug in and sand flew over the bonnet. I checked for damage. The lower grill was cracked in a few places but otherwise the air-dam seemed OK. The two covers over the tow openings had popped off. Then I saw bits of black plastic lying around. The air inlet baffle that sits behind the air-dam and connects it to the chassis with the quarter-turn fasteners, had disintegrated. It is made of a plastic quite a bit more brittle than the air-dam maybe deliberately so. Luckily the air-dam was still quite secure without it.

I priced the air inlet baffle (Part #51657067AA) locally. One quote was over $300 and a couple of weeks later $268.64 at another dealer. So I did the now usual thing and ordered from the States. RTpartsco have it listed for $62.30USD http://rtpartsco.com/parts/catalog/p...ducts_id=38933 . With shipping it came to $111.82AUD on PayPal. That's less than half the local asking price and I may have had to wait months.

The lower grill I fixed quite neatly with a hot glue gun so it now looks as new. The air inlet baffle is in transit. The lesson is, either go slower or take off the air-dam.
The air inlet baffle arrived! It took 11 days from Tampa FL to my doorstep in Sydney. Thank you RT Partsco and USPS. Thanks for nothing Chrysler Australia. I paid twice what it was worth but half what Australian dealers wanted. Installation was a snap except I had to trim off the tops of the two vertical tabs to fit the revised export model front. The pic shows the disintegrated and the new unit.
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File Type: jpg _8111372.jpg (262.5 KB, 97 views)
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