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Jeep service costs

314K views 2K replies 183 participants last post by  SNUKE 
#1 ·
Guy's, I know this information is dotted around other threads but I was looking to get an idea of reasonable or unreasonable service cost experience in one place. My CRD's up for a 20K service (oil service message just came up). I've been quoted around $500 at Albion Brisbane and just over $600 at Salters Moorooka. I know we can always do better by supplying our own oil, but as far as the above prices are concerned, anybody have similar quotes/costs? PS, My 10k service was $430 at Albion.
 
#212 ·
My 2 cents worth, if you've got a tow bar and intend to use it, go with 75W-140.
 
#213 ·
I do have a tow bar and 2 tonnes of boat to hitch up to it.

I take it 75W-140 is more suited to heavy duty applications than 75W-85? I note on the Redline 75W-140 product page it specifically refers to Jeep Grand Cherokee with Quadradrive:

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Gear Oil for Differentials - 75W140 GL-5 Gear Oil

Jeep
1993- 2007 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Grand Wagoneer, Wrangler Class III or Class IV hitch, towing package Grand Cherokee with Vari-Lock or Quadra Drive
2008-present Commander and Grand Cherokee all differentials
2005-2006 Rubicon with 226 rear differential
2002-2003 Liberty Front and '02 - '07 198RBI rear differential, '08 - 8 1/4" rear differential
2007-present Nitro 8 1/4"



The Product Page for 75W-85 makes passing reference to Jeep but doen't specifically mention the Grand Cherokee:

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Gear Oil for Differentials - 75W85 GL-5 Gear Oil

Popular in many late model BMW, Dodge, Jeep, Mercedes-Benz differentials, Toyota light truck, Lexus differentials and transfer cases.
 
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#216 ·
I do have a tow bar and 2 tonnes of boat to hitch up to it.

I take it 75W-140 is more suited to heavy duty applications than 75W-85?
Yep, but only because high load implies high temperatures. If one adds high Aussie summer temperatures it becomes even more important. Remember that all oils are thick when cold and thin when hot. The 75W means that both oils act the same when cold (W for winter). They act as a 75 grade oil would act when cold. However, when hot, the 75W-140 acts as a 140 grade oil would when hot and the 75W-85 as an 85 grade when hot. So both oils are the same when cold but when heavily loaded and hot, the 75W-140 maintains about twice the viscosity therefore lubricity as the 75W-85. The trade-off is that the thicker oil will slightly increase fuel consumption.

In engines, another factor comes into play. Modern engines are built with fine tolerances. Thicker oils may not get into the narrow gaps as easily. This is not so much an issue with chunky diffs.
 
#214 ·
Contacted Jeep Australia about some other issues ( stuck in sand fix, nav fix) and inquired about the diff oil. They can't answer such technical questions and referred me back to the service dept at the dealership.

Spoke to the service dept at MacArthur CJD and they said that the manual is generic and not specific to the diesel JGC. They use LS90 in the rear diff and 75w85 in the front diff, so there is another alternative. I'm more confused than before.
 
#215 · (Edited)
Spoke to the service dept at MacArthur CJD and they said that the manual is generic and not specific to the diesel JGC.
Hi Selous

I don't think that the CRD has different differentials than other engine variants. I suspect that the guy may be confusing the service and warranty handbook as that is indeed a generic document however the Owners Manual is specific to the JGC.

Personally, I would run with (and do) 75w-85 front and rear for normal use however if you do a reasonable amount of towing, then I'd put in the 75W-90. There is a surprising amount of difference in viscosity between the 85 and the 90 so that should assist with the additional loads and shearing etc. associated with towing.

However as we are changing our diff oils every 40k then the effect of shearing on the oils over time is less of a concern.
 
#222 ·
After ringing 4 Jeep service departments in Sydney, I have 4 different recommendations as to the correct diff oil to use:

Dealer 1) 75w85 in the front, LS90 in the rear

Dealer 2) 75w140 with friction modifier front and rear

Dealer 3) 75w90 in the front, 75w90 with friction modifier in the rear

Dealer 4) 75w85 sounds right. No friction modifier in the front. Check on the Castrol website and go with what they say. Vehicle takes 6lt of diff oil - 3 lt in each diff. (Not according to the WK2jeep website it doesn't)

I reckon if I rang another couple I still wouldn't get the same answer twice. The only thing I can take from this with any certainty is that none of the dealers are using the Mopar oil listed in the owners manual.
 
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#225 · (Edited)
You get full marks for perseverance, and thanks from me…..i don't think i would have sufficient tolerance.
I'm sure you are right in that no dealer (OK there may be a rare animal out there), is using anything remotely like the correct Chrysler spec oil for the diffs (o sorry, we don't know what that is either!).
No surprise after researching what dealers are putting in as engine oil - regardless of the Chrysler spec.
I've come to believe that the quality Redline 75W85 previously mentioned or the Mobil 1 LS75W90 should be fine for the job. Certainly it will be a better option than letting my local dealer "just change the oil".
 
#224 ·
Close, they said to ring the dealers because they have no-one there with technical expertise.

Mind you, it didn't sound like dealer 4 in my previous post had any idea either.

(That is the dealer you take your JGC to BTW)
 
#226 · (Edited)
I also contacted Redline Australia to clarify which oil they recommend. They actually sound like they know what they were talking about, as opposed to the service departments I spoke to earlier. They do not recommend 75w85 for the JGC. It is too light for the JGC and does not provide sufficient protection in their opinion. They stated that manufacturers tend to specify the lightest grade oil they can as it will marginally improve fuel consumption figures. While the difference is not noticeable in the real world, the better fuel figures look better in the published vehicle specs.

For Australian conditions they recommend 75w90 at a minimum, with either 75w140 or 80w140 as their pick. The first figure is largely irrelevant and only makes a difference at sub-zero operating temperatures. The 140 grade provides better lubrication at higher temperatures as experienced in Australia, or heavy duty applications such as towing or off-roading. They recommend 140 grade for both diffs.

They also mentioned that they recommend 5w40 engine oil for the CRD but advised to use 5w30 as specified in the handbook to comply during the warranty period, even though they stated 5w30 is too light for the vehicle.

As an aside, they asked me where I purchased my Redline gear oil from and advised that they provide no manufacturer warranty for any products bought from GL Lubricants who are a grey importer. (I suspect the same holds true for Mobil, Royal Purple etc) GL Lubricants however, claim they have no liability for any product bought from them according to their website. I checked and at the foot of the homepage in 6pt grey type that is barely noticeable is this disclaimer:

Disclaimer: We, as GL Lubricants Pty Ltd, will not be held liable for any manufacturing defects or non-performance issues of the products we sell.

Text White Font Line Logo


Something worth considering when purchasing from them and contrary to Australian Consumer Law.
 
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#230 · (Edited)
Selous

Thanks for sharing the results of the efforts that you have put into this today, much appreciated.

It's interesting that the Redline Web site in the USA do specifiy 75W-85, however I take Redline Australia's point re the elevated temperatures here in Australia. I would have thought that parts of the US get quite hot as well, but probably not to the same extent as Australia.

I wonder what oil the JGC's have in them for a factory fill? I suspect the 75W-85, but we will never know.

I still believe that a quality 75W-85, combined with the "too frequent" diff oil changes that are specified by Jeep Aust would be OK for for normal use. Let's face it, most of these vehicles will never see off road and are really glorified shopping trolleys.

However if you do a bit of towing or plan on long road trips in the middle of Summer, then I think that 75W-90 is the way to go. Incidently, 75W-90 is not just 12.5% thicker as some people might think, it's actually about 50% thicker. A point to note thate these diffs have aluminium casings (with cooling fins from memory), and are not the old steel casings of yester-year. That will likely also help to reduce heat buildup.

So for me, as I do some towing from time to time, will probably go with 75W-90 next diff oil change. I'm just not comfortable with putting in oil that is too thick in these diffs if they have been engineered for 75W-85. I want to be sure that the oil is getting into those bearings very quickly when cold. (The "W" or winter viscosity of oils varies significantly when the "Warm" viscosity is altered, even if the 75W is the same).

In some ways, this conversation is redundant for most because a lot of original owners will likely change vehicles either near the end of warranty or 3 to 4 years when their lease or finance is up, and the reality is that no matter which oil of those discussed up the page is used, the vehicle should get to the expiration of warranty.

However there are those of us that keep their vehicles longer. We usually change our vehicles about every 8 to 10 years, depending on how well it is aging mechanically, so we like to get these sort of details right.

I do agree with Redline Aust re the engine 5W-30, and if I can get a low ash 5W-40 (by low ash I mean 0.6% by weight, not 0.8% as some so called low ash oils have, don't want to have to pay to replace that DPF anytime soon!!) that meets all other specs, then when the vehicle is out of warranty, I also will move to that. After the vehicle is out of warranty I will also be happy to ignore the Chrysler MS-11106 spec.
 
#231 ·
Selous Thanks for sharing the results of the efforts that you have put into this today, much appreciated. It's interesting that the Redline Web site in the USA do specifiy 75W-85, however I take Redline Australia's point re the elevated temperatures here in Australia. I would have thought that parts of the US get quite hot as well, but probably not to the same extent as Australia. I wonder what oil the JGC's have in them for a factory fill? I suspect the 75W-85, but we will never know. I still believe that a quality 75W-85, combined with the "too frequent" diff oil changes that are specified by Jeep Aust would be OK for for normal use. Let's face it, most of these vehicles will never see off road and are really glorified shopping trolleys. However if you do a bit of towing or plan on long road trips in the middle of Summer, then I think that 75W-90 is the way to go. Incidently, 75W-90 is not just 12.5% thicker as some people might think, it's actually about 50% thicker. A point to note thate these diffs have aluminium casings (with cooling fins from memory), and are not the old steel casings of yester-year. That will likely also help to reduce heat buildup. So for me, as I do some towing from time to time, will probably go with 75W-90 next diff oil change. I'm just not comfortable with putting in oil that is too thick in these diffs if they have been engineered for 75W-85. I want to be sure that the oil is getting into those bearings very quickly when cold. (The "W" or winter viscosity of oils varies significantly when the "Warm" viscosity is altered, even if the 75W is the same). In some ways, this conversation is redundant for most because a lot of original owners will likely change vehicles either near the end of warranty or 3 to 4 years when their lease or finance is up, and the reality is that no matter which oil of those discussed up the page is used, the vehicle should get to the expiration of warranty. However there are those of us that keep their vehicles longer. We usually change our vehicles about every 8 to 10 years, depending on how well it is aging mechanically, so we like to get these sort of details right. I do agree with Redline Aust re the engine 5W-30, and if I can get a low ash 5W-40 (by low ash I mean 0.6% by weight, not 0.8% as some so called low ash oils have, don't want to have to pay to replace that DPF anytime soon!!) that meets all other specs, then when the vehicle is out of warranty, I also will move to that. After the vehicle is out of warranty I will also be happy to ignore the Chrysler MS-11106 spec.
I take your points Swampy, which are well made. I was leaning towards 75w90 but after speaking to redline, I am going to use the 75w140 I bought for this service. Worst case scenario, I would rely on the wording of the owners manual which specifies 75w140 in the unlikely case of a warranty dispute. The reality is that if the 140 proves too thick I would drain it out and use 75w90.

I normally change my cars every 3 years but intend to keep this vehicle for much longer, so I want to make sure it is serviced correctly with the right parts and lubricants.
 
#235 ·
Stolen from Reddit:

And that's why it takes 3 hours and $150 to change your headlight fluid

 
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#237 ·
:confused::confused::confused:Guys, this post has a tremendous amount of good info, good that we all seem to be around the same kms and can share excellent researched info to help the masses. I for one really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Just on the front and rear diff, (bit confused especially with inacuracies in the manual), on a 2012 CRD Overland, do I go friction modifier front and rear, or just rear. I intend to carry out this oil change myself (using a 75W90) straight after the 40k service this week. Not sure if I have quad drive or quad track...ELSD etc. Any guidance is appreciated:)
 
#238 ·
Hi Glenn

Overland should have the Quadra-Drive.

Friction modifiers are only technically required for the rear ELSD but can go in the front, no probs. The reason they specifiy that friction mods are not required for the front is that it can be slightly cheaper.

Just be sure the oil is GL5.
 
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#239 ·
#240 ·
Just about everyone has their own favourite in regard to oils. The reality is that a lot of the same spec oils from different blenders have the same base stocks and each blender adds their own mix of additives.

Personally, I'm running Redline Oil in the diffs, but can be hard to get hold off and a little pricey. However Penrite would be my second choice and I use that in my other vehicle which is a conventional sedan.

Both Redline & Penrite have Gear oil products whose synthetic base oils contain PAO and Esters, which are pretty much top of the Wazzer in regard to oils. (How much they include, who knows?).

I have never used Nulon however I do recall a fellow Member Enforcer who liked the Nulon products, not sure about the Gear oils though. He may read this and make comment.
 
#243 ·
HI John,
40k due this week ($850 quoted plus diff oils if required) so cant help on exact price for a 50k but I'm sure I read the 50k service is about the same price as a 40k. Mines in at Southport, GC.
Just installed Nitto Terra Grapplers 265-50-20 for $1200. A marked improvement in capablity from the stock Khumo's but noticable noisy as they are an AT. Really suit the car though and Im happy with the purchase.
 
#246 ·
I was quoted $375 for my 10k service, pick it up tomorrow, be interesting if they try and hit me up for heaps of replacement parts or any other costs.
 
#247 ·
Make sure you give it a good check over to see if it's safe to drive, last time our GC was at Kerry's they damaged 2x wheel nuts, both rear inner wheel guards (felt), left the rear cig socket unplugged, left both front fog lights unplugged and didn't clip the front bumper back on properly.
The joy blessing was it was all warranty related work so I didn't have to pay for this out standing work!
Yoda
 
#249 ·
I know where Yoda is coming from in regard to Kerrys in Darwin (i've posted on this before).
My experience relates to work supposed to be carried out on our Nissan Patrol we had at the time - but it wasn't a happy encounter.
From the front desk right through the workshop, and then extending to the dealer principal, there was, and I believe still is, a culture of disinterest and general incompetence.
Their attitude relates to the fact that if you don't like it - "drive to Alice Springs and get your vehicle fixed there" - and for those that don't get up that way - it is 1500K Darwin to Alice. 3000k + return.
There is a very fine line that has to be trodden………..
 
#250 ·
40k service today at Southport, $850. Expensive I know but this is my second service here and I am happy overall. The guy on the desk is extremely knowledgeable, helpful and offered me advice on subsequent service amendments that will lower my running costs. I hope they pay him well!!

Interestingly though, I've had three updates performed.

RRT12-072 (Nav system update??). Not sure if this is the map database or logic enhancements.
08-051-13 (Park assist update). Now have options on blind spot.
24-002-12 (HVAC Update). This TSF is related to remote start/HVAC operation.....a sign of things to come? I wonder if the remote start modules might be available soon?

Anyway, I am up to date, car is running better than ever, new fuel filters might have made a difference to the get up and go, and the engine is running much cooler, just over 1/4 on the gauge rather than just under 1/2. :)...............hang on, Ive just blown over $2k in 4 weeks on tyres and services......:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
#255 ·
Look over to the right a little and you will see Lismore NSW.

Wow $685 is the highest by a big margin that I have seen for 10,000kms/6 months.
 
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