Hi I've fitted an LED bar to the jeep, and to comply with laws here (WA) it must be hooked up so it comes on with the high beams. Just wondering if there is anything special required to do this, given the high beam can be set to come on automatically in this vehicle
Hi Steve thanks, I should've mentioned that whilst the bar is mounted, it's not yet connected.
What need to know is how I can connect it up so it comes on both with the auto-hi and manual hi-beam.
As you can no doubt tell by now I'm not much of a hands-on car guy.. Until recently I spent too much time driving PC's and servers, but having now bolted a few things onto my jeep, I've become a lot more interested. This forum has been a real help too ?
Easiest would be to use a fuse tap like a Narva "Add A Circuit" under the high beam fuse. Plug and play, and totally reversible. Second easiest to tap on to the wiring behind the headlight. Third easiest is to tap into the wiring under the fuse box, which would be how I'd probably do it. It'd be likely that there's a suitable "high amp" feed under there for the relay switched lightbar power too.
Hi Steve,
I have a 2013 WK2 3.0crd. It has HID's fitted. Ive looked for the high beam fuse but it doesn't seem to have one. We have to have it only with high beam in Vic.
I also was unable to find the power in for the HID.
Can you shed any light (excuse the pun)
I would like to piggy back off the fuse if possible .
Thanks gents. Steve I checked out the Narva piggyback device, it seems to be rated at 20A. The light bar sucks down 13.3A @ 13.5V according to the doco, so would there be a likelihood of it overloading, with both that and the highbeam on? I'm keen to get it right the first time.
Thanks gents. Steve I checked out the Narva piggyback device, it seems to be rated at 20A. The light bar sucks down 13.3A @ 13.5V according to the doco, so would there be a likelihood of it overloading, with both that and the highbeam on? I'm keen to get it right the first time.
Good that you're not just accepting information as it comes... respect for checking that out.
The Add A Fuse only supplies the original high beam and the current to energise the relay. It doesn't power the lightbar. This needs to derive power from a "high amp capable" supply, via a fuse and then the switching contacts on the relay.
So when high beam is active, the Add A Fuse supplies a small amount of current, which turns on the relay, which enables current to flow between the high amp supply and lightbar.
Good practice and probably handy, but I don't believe that the ability to disable the additional lighting is necessary for compliance. As long as the additional lighting turns off with high beam Mr Plod should be satisfied. Happy to be corrected if I've missed something.
The "new" WA initiatives are regarding lights which can be energised any time, and which are mounted too high. My understanding is that neither of these have ever really been within the law. Previously lights were supposed to be only fitted in pairs, and this requirement has now been relaxed somewhat to allow single lightbars provided that they are mounted centrally.
I'll see if I can dredge up the relevant document...
It's easy to do. You need a 40 amp 4 prong relay. Commonly called an off road light relay. I found a picture online to help show how to wire the relay but am not sure how to post it. There are 4 prongs on the relay, 1 prong supplies the 12v pos+, other prong is 12v neg-, other prong is your 12+ "switch". Last you have your 12v pos+ out. The "switch" is any 12v pos+ power you tie into, like your high beams. When you activate/turn on your high beams, you will send power to the relay which "throws a switch" inside the relay to connect the already waiting 12v pos+ power. Like when you flip a swich to turn on a light in your house. When the relay gets it's power, bam, you have power to your light bar. You will just have to find a good ground. I found a grounding block in the engine bay on the inner fender on my Wj to connect my neg/grounds. I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you.
Thanks guys this is all good info, so very helpful.
Pretty sure the light bar wiring has a 40A relay so guess I'm all set as long as the wiring is long enough.
Just have to wait for the mrs to bring my car back so I can pull the wiring and check it out. Before this I had the bar on the roof running straight off the battery before the rules changed. Admittedly it was more illegal then, than it will be down low where I moved it to.
Decided to go with the 'add a circuit' option for powering the relay, however I was unable to see any fuse dedicated to the high beam. There is one fuse 'Electro-chromatic Mirror/Smart High Beams - if equipped' but I would imagine this is for the gear that decides if HB's should come on, and as such the circuit would always be live.
Another fuse is for 'Body control - exterior lighting #2' which tells me there may be a controller for the lights on the end of this circuit, rather than a direct connection to any lights.
So I suppose it might have to be option 2, tap the high beam wire that some here have already pointed out.
Looking forward to getting this hooked up for the 10-hour drive to Shark Bay later this month :thumbsup:
The Aussie HID lights have one fuse/relay for each headlight (see diagram). The high beam signal operates solenoid/blind to shadow the upper light output. My install used a relay that had a separate power circuit. An inline fuse was connected between the relay and the + post inside the fuse box.
mate i grabbed my trigger from the loom behind the rh headlight, best advise use a relay. there are plug and play looms available with a switch for inside the car.
not sure of the quality but this is exactly what you are after. 12v is located in the previous post in the fuse box.
Thanks Nicjak that loom is pretty much what I have here. I'm going to have to add a length of wire to it though, to get power from the high beam trigger to the switch inside the cabin.
Instead of routing wires inside the cabin, you should do what I did and install a key fob remote to turn the light bar on. All my wires are under my hood. The remote works up to 50ft away from my Jeep.
That's how it is where I'm from too. If you get your 12v power from your high beem and wire that to your relay, you can still add the remote and be legal. When you switch your low beems on the power will be lost to your light bar and turn it off for you.
RWC? This is the Wild West man... not required even when transferring. This might provide some idea of the percentage of POS littering the roadways here. It blew my mind when I moved here...
Here in WA it's a legal requirement to have a switch that's accessible to the driver. I have no issues running wire into the cabin for the switch, but will have to visit Jaycar first for the extra ~4m of wire required.
John the "Add-a-Fuse" option is dead in the water as there isn't one available in the tiny size of the Jeep's fuses. I believe that NicJac was successful identifying an appropriate trigger wire at the headlight? Under the fusebox would be my preference still... you might have to look for a lighting relay, though I'd be surprised if there wasn't a separate fuse.
Next time I have the car out of the garage I'll have a look for you, unless someone has a direct answer for you first.
Thanks Steve,
Ive spent half the afternoon looking. The closest I came was with the round plug in (no idea what it is ) in the back of the light unit medial to the hid.
I am not sure if you are looking for the high beam trigger but I posted in this thread previously. It will power the relay. I chose to add another fuse and relay from the fuse box for the high current source.
Took my feed (MY14 model) to the relay from the light connector in front of the air box (need to remove the air box)(green and white wire from memory).
Works fine and the spotties are high beam only.
Regards
Adrian
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