Hello to all.
I thought that I would relay to all my experiences and thoughts regarding my first 10,00km service for the CRD Grand Cherokee. A little wordy so apologies in advance for that.
Previously I have self performed all servicing and maintenance for all our vehicles and have done so for many years. The vehicles have only ever gone back to the dealer for minor warranty items and surprisingly, as all my previous vehicles have been Fords, the warranty issues have been very few.
For the Jeep I have decided to do much the same except the Jeep will go back to the dealer every service only to update the software, TSB's etc and warranty work (list of items further below). I will continue self performing all other servicing and maintenance.
So for the 10k service all that that is needed to be done is the following:
Engine Oil & Filter
Inspect Air Filter
Inspect Brake Pads
Starscan updates (Jeep required for this one)
Inspect Drive belt Tensioner
First up was the oil selection and this is something that I don't take likely.
We typically keep each of our vehicles for 8 years minimum so I believe that selecting the right oil for both a Warranty and longevity perspective is critical. The specs say that the oil must meet Chrysler MS-11106, MB229.51 (or MB229.31) and ACEA C3.
Oil specs can be quite confusing and understanding the different specs and how they relate to each other is difficult at best. The link below helps with that in that you can select and overlay the different specs for each oil option and enables a comparison of different oils that are on the market. I have no way of validating the accuracy of the oil performace map but found it a usefull tool.
I think that it is also critical to have an oil that is very DPF friendly as I don't want to be replacing this item any time too near in the future. The oil performance map also assists with this consideration. IE some oils that meet the specs are classed as Low SAPS and others that meet the specs are Low to Mid SAPS.
In the end I went with Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 (thanks John47 for the heads up on this one) as it meets all specs, even specifically mentions the Chrysler Spec (no ambiguity in regard to warranty) and was one of the best of the oil options available that I assessed in using the oil performance map.
So back to the service.
Oil filter (part No 68109834AA) from Jeep was $55.
Sump Plug Copper Washer from Jeep was $4.40. (Now that I have the old one after the service I can likely buy these at Repco for $2 each next time, however $4.40 ea is still OK).
Oil Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5W-30 x 2 x 5litre containers was $150. (This was expensive and I could only get it from one place near me and that was Repco.
I also had to buy an 8mm Allen key Socket for the sump plug that was $10 while I was at Repco. (Thanks Enforcer for the heads up on this one.)
Before dropping the oil I deactivated the Quadralift at normal ride height so I could rotate the tyres while the oil continues to drain. At normal ride height I could slide under the vehicle to remove the sump plug however next time I will deactivate it at OR1 (if it will let me) to give myself a little more room under the vehicle.
Dropping the oil and changing the filter was almost exactly as per Enforcers CRD Oil change guide posted elsewhere and was a big help in knowing what to expect.
To change the Oil filter the Air Filter Air box has to be removed so inspecting the Air filter element was easy, no issues there.
Actual Oil quantity required seems to be an issue in that their appears to be conflicting information available. The owners manual says 9.5 litres. WK2Jeeps says 9.1 litres. Compounding the issue is that it is very difficlut to check the oil level with the dipstick. It seems that you get only one go at this because if you reinsert the the dipstick after the first reading, you will get a lot higher or indeterminable reading due to the oil being drawn up the dipstick tube. I always check my oil levels when the engine is cold, ie first thing in the morning. Some say check the oil 15 minutes after engine shut down when warm.
I ended up putting in about 9.25 litres (yesterday and more than what I intended) and when I checked it this morning it is slightly overfull. Therfore I think That the WK2Jeeps quantity of 9.1 litres is correct and not the 9.5 litres listed in the owners manual.
Incidently whan adding oil after an oil and filter change, I would always add 100ml less than that specified and that would always give me exactly the right Max level reading on the dipstick with my Fords. So next oil change i will add exactly 9 litres and that should give me about the right amount.
This morning I will take 200-300ml out (drawn out through the dipstick tube with tool that I use for my boat) to get it back down to the max level.
EDIT 25/4/12: After withdrawing approx 250ml above, mine was still showing overfull on the dipstick. I cantacted Milous who kindly checked and has advised that the correct quantity is 8.4 litres, so today I have withdrawn more from the sump to correct the level.
So procedure was to drain oil, change filter, then rotate tyres while the oil continues to drain.
Rotating the tyres front to back is a job that is usually easy (I always do that at every service as it extends the life of the tyres) however it was not straight forward.
Firstly, the wheel nuts were tight. Bloody tight. I have an air impact wrench and it would only loosen them when the air compressor was at peak pressure. Inspecting the internal of the wheel nuts after removal showed that the internal threads of a few of the alloy wheel nuts looked to have been compromised, IE they looked like small particles of alloy were stuck in the threads.
While rotating the tyres front to back gives me chance to inspect the brake pads. The pads on the Jeep are quite meatly so no issues there.
When refitting the wheels, I always rattle up the nuts on the lowest setting then torque up the nuts to specifcation when back on the ground. The owners manual says 150Nm which is higher than what is required on the Fords being 140Nm.
Most of the nuts torqued up quite well however one would not torque up so I stopped as the nut felt "soft" while torquing so I stopped before I stripped it. I put this back to to what I think was the nuts being previously too tight and and the alloy threads being compromised.
So I got on the phone to my nearest Jeep dealer for a new nut only to find that they are $16 each and 6 weeks delivery (no stock of wheel nuts in Australia). I can get them for about $3.50 each plus delivery direct from the states and based on parts that I have previously brought in, delivery is around 10 days, so I will go with that. The suspect wheel nut is still tight, just not at 150Nm.
So all in all, the service was relatively simple, other than the wheel nut issue and slight oil overfill.
Now in regard to warranty issues. I have the Jeep booked into the dealer Monday week and below is the list so far (cut & paste of email sent to dealer):
1) Wheel alignment. The vehicle has pulled to the left from new. (The service warranty book says that they will do a wheel alignment once only within 12 months or 20,00kms)
2) Away from Home, no start. Called Jeep assist who guided us through the Lock/Unlock x 3 times sequence to reset the computer. Still no start. Jeep Assist guided us to remove the start button and the try and start the key manually with the key fob. Car would start but then shut down almost immediately. Fix was to fetch spare key fob from home and Jeep started OK. Suspect Key Fob has worked fine since
then. There appears to be A TSB for this now # 08-022-12
3) Rattle front drivers door trim: Been there since new.
4) Leather on Rear seat cushion lower is becoming unhooked.
5) Dealer fitted Tinting: The clear UV tint on the rear tailgate is lifting
from the edges.
6) Blind Spot Detection. This is showing increasingly as unavailable, now about 1 – 2 times per day.
7) Nav System. Problem since new. Maps or system appear to be well out of date. There are many examples, however 1 example is that it will not allow a turn from Tonkin Hwy heading North onto Roe Hwy East. Another example it will not navigate along sections of Nicholson Rd. Many times if you enter in the suburb 1st, the street that you want to navigate to is not listed, however if you enter in the street name 1st, the suburb that you previously searched on now pops up. This also happen Vise-versa and is frustrating at times. POI’s virtually unusable – i.e. nearest Bunnings is over 3,000 kms away.
8) Nav system intermittenly stops verbal commands however still reduces radio volume when voice should be speaking.
9) iPod frequently not connecting properly.
10) Intermittent grinding noise when slowly accelerating from traffic lights.
11) Intermittent left mirror not dipping while reversing and also will then not allow mirror to be adjusted.
Other issues that have been one offs.
1) 3rd Party commented that head lights stayed on for what seemed like a long time after we had locked and left the vehicle.
2) Time on clock didn't change during a trip (trip was around 20 mins) until we got back into car around 30 mins later, then ok.
3) CD was playing at faster than normal speed. Changed back 2 radio then
back 2 CD but still playing fast. Watched DVD when parked and menu wasn't working properly.
4) Reverse camera didn't work initially, car was then shifted back into
park, then reverse and then it worked
Overall still very happy with the Jeep, albeit a little dissappointed with the warranty items above.
I'll report back in a fortnight as to how I went with the Warranty issues.