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  #25  
Old 04-06-2014, 08:41 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Allypally,

I'd be careful in using a traditional isolator in a vehicle with a "smart" charger/alternator. Isolators work on voltage and you can't be sure that the voltage that the JGC will run the alternator is high enough to trigger it.... all of the time. Sometimes it may be, but perhaps not, if your JGC battery is fully charged when you start your engine. Perhaps your cabling re-run provided just enough to trigger but I'd want to monitor it over time to make sure that this is always the case. It's part of the reason why CTek tell you to use the "solar" input of the D250S dual, fed via a relay(triggered on ignition) instead of the "alternator" input, which basically has an in-build isolator.

To my way of thinking, isolators are basically just a relay that triggers when voltage is close to 13.8 and have some hysteresis. To me, a better solution in the JGC is to just use a relay. I have mine trigger off the wire that supplies recharge to the torch in the back as it appears to only have power when the engine is actually running, i.e. exactly what I wanted!

It all depends on whether the float charge level of the JGC is higher than the trigger for your isolator. I guess you could monitor that over time with a multimeter in the cabin connected to the lighter socket.

I might have mentioned this before, but I put the relay in the rear and broke out 3 anderson connectors:
1) In the cargo area, before the relay. This is permanent 12v in case I want to "careful" run a fridge".
2) In the cargo area, after the relay. General use.
3) At the towbar, after the relay. For the camper.

The bonus is, if I ever want permanent power at the tow bar, I can just connect the two anderson connectors in the cargo area together, bypassing the relay!

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  #26  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:30 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by allypally View Post
I reported a few months back in this thread that I had some issues with getting power to my caravan via the Anderson plug.
The plug was wired though a Projecta Isolator, and when I connected the caravan, The Isolator could not detect the battery in the van, and therefore would not supply current.
I was of the opinion that the problem was due to voltage drop in the Van wiring, as although I had 6B&S in the car to the Anderson, I only had 6mm wiring in the van from the Anderson to the battery. That 6mm run was approx. 7-8Mtrs.
To rectify, I replaced the 6mm with 10mm, heavy duty battery lead. When making the final connections, I noticed that the 6mm earth wire was in fact not connected. The van manufacturer had omitted to make the connection.
In any event, now with 10mm wiring, and now actually connected, the voltage to the van battery is good.
Good job! It certainly wasn't going work with the earth disconnected . When ordering my trailer, I specified an 175A Anderson plug. I made no mention of the cabling but all credit to the builder, he used battery cable for both the positive and negative and ran both into the body of the trailer. The actual size of the cable I can't tell because of the sheathing but judging by the weight and stiffness, it is definitely battery cable. Anyone considering wiring up an auxiliary battery with 6mm wire should firstly compare the cross-section of copper in it as against battery cable. It's like comparing ones finger with a piece of spaghetti. Considering an auxiliary battery has to push current two or three times as far, you might want something better than spaghetti.
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  #27  
Old 05-04-2014, 09:17 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I'm trying to find a take off point for an accessories switched 12v reasonably close to the battery for an isolator - any views on the easiest approach? I don't relish taking off a lot of trim.
Thanks,
Russell
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  #28  
Old 05-08-2014, 12:23 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Hi Guys. Don't know if this has been covered or not but there seems to be space under the MY14 Jeep (I think it was used for a space saver spare in Europe) and was wondering if anyone thinks it could be possible to have additional battery/ies located there?

Has anyone done that?
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  #29  
Old 05-08-2014, 12:36 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I did see something where a member built a battery box under the GC, in front of the spare tyre well. There were images as well. You would have to search it
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  #30  
Old 05-08-2014, 08:29 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Ally is right, think it was over on the Ausjeep forum, about 18 months ago in one of the dual battery threads. Didn't look all that attractive to me.
There is also the option for non QL vehicles to fit a battery under the passenger seat. Takes a bit of cutting out of plastic but has been done.
John
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  #31  
Old 05-09-2014, 03:29 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

In the States the space is used for the urea tank. It certainly is wasted space.
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  #32  
Old 05-09-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I'm trying to find a take off point for an accessories switched 12v reasonably close to the battery for an isolator - any views on the easiest approach? I don't relish taking off a lot of trim.
Thanks,
Russell
As I mentioned above, I ran mine hot to the cargo Bay with only a breaker under the seat. I put a standard automotive really in the cargo Bay that is triggered by the spotlight chargers power. This works really well for me, to my mind batter than accessories as it is only powered when the engine is actually running. It was easy to take the power of here by poping out the charger and posting a wire down towards the wheel well. Benefit is that I also have hot power in the cargo area of needed.
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  #33  
Old 05-09-2014, 11:27 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I'm trying to find a take off point for an accessories switched 12v reasonably close to the battery for an isolator - any views on the easiest approach? I don't relish taking off a lot of trim.
Thanks,
Russell
I'm not exactly sure what you are getting at. If you are talking about an isolator, you are dealing with currents way above what any accessories point could supply. On the other hand, if you are wanting a supply for a remote switch to the isolator then you have a +12V supply right there at positive side of the isolator. Maybe you could give us a sketch.
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  #34  
Old 05-11-2014, 02:10 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Thanks Bob.
I have actually now got it wired to the rear accessory point. Taking the trim of was every bit as hard as I thought.
IT is a Thumper battery and their provided charger, which from what I can figure is an isolator based on whether the car is on or not.
So it has power input leads to the car battery, power output leads to the Thumper, and a trigger wire to the ignition or accessories power. At first sight it seems to work OK.
After our previous discussions about DC - DC converters, VSR's and the like, I was/am somewhat concerned that simply having the batteries in parallel during charging May be an issue. But after asking the question three times, and being assured that it works and there has been no problems with intelligent alternator/AGM set ups, I decided to take the easy route and use their supplied charger.
On a related issue, when connecting to the negative terminal of the battery I noticed that the clamp on the terminal was loose enough to be able to swivel it by hand. The tightening mechanism is a bit odd, but the end result is that the gap which closes when tightened is totally closed, leaving no more tightening possible. I eventually got it tight by ensuring the clamp is pushed down onto the terminal as much as possible, but it seems a bit borderline.
Has anyone else had any problems with this?
Thanks,
Russell
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  #35  
Old 05-11-2014, 07:21 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
Thanks Bob.
I have actually now got it wired to the rear accessory point. Taking the trim of was every bit as hard as I thought.
IT is a Thumper battery and their provided charger, which from what I can figure is an isolator based on whether the car is on or not.
So it has power input leads to the car battery, power output leads to the Thumper, and a trigger wire to the ignition or accessories power. At first sight it seems to work OK.
After our previous discussions about DC - DC converters, VSR's and the like, I was/am somewhat concerned that simply having the batteries in parallel during charging May be an issue. But after asking the question three times, and being assured that it works and there has been no problems with intelligent alternator/AGM set ups, I decided to take the easy route and use their supplied charger.
On a related issue, when connecting to the negative terminal of the battery I noticed that the clamp on the terminal was loose enough to be able to swivel it by hand. The tightening mechanism is a bit odd, but the end result is that the gap which closes when tightened is totally closed, leaving no more tightening possible. I eventually got it tight by ensuring the clamp is pushed down onto the terminal as much as possible, but it seems a bit borderline.
Has anyone else had any problems with this?
Thanks,
Russell
No issues found with my battery terminal connections. Not sure if terminals are disconnected during the sea voyage, or during pre delivery when some accessories are fitted, but if so, that could explain.
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  #36  
Old 05-14-2014, 06:58 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Where do you guys connect your heavy leads going down the back for the Anderson plug? to the battery direct or the jump terminals under the bonnet?
I did read somewhere to leave the battery terminals alone and come from the under bonnet terminals, but what a pain bringing heavy cables through the firewall etc. It should be all the same? providing you have a sound connection to the battery terminals. Any thoughts/ experiences?
Gap
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