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  #37  
Old 05-14-2014, 06:32 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I think those who have used the jumpstart terminals ran the cables under the car for the reason you mention.

Both approaches have pros and cons IMO.

Cheers,
Steve
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  #38  
Old 05-14-2014, 05:28 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

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Originally Posted by Gapcooper View Post
Where do you guys connect your heavy leads going down the back for the Anderson plug? to the battery direct or the jump terminals under the bonnet?

I did read somewhere to leave the battery terminals alone and come from the under bonnet terminals, but what a pain bringing heavy cables through the firewall etc. It should be all the same? providing you have a sound connection to the battery terminals. Any thoughts/ experiences?

Gap

I connected mine directly to the battery. It's fairly easy to get into the channel under the door sill and follow an existing loom to the rear. The only disadvantage I can see is having extra wires to manage when the battery is to be disconnected or removed. It is also not possible to remove the negative lead while connecting the positive as is desirable, because you need to move the seat back to get at the positive. Fortunately the only bits you're likely to accidentally contact are plastic. I also discovered that the clamp on the negative terminal was loose, and is very difficult to get tight.
Russell
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  #39  
Old 05-14-2014, 05:48 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I connected from the battery
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  #40  
Old 05-15-2014, 07:30 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gapcooper View Post
Where do you guys connect your heavy leads going down the back for the Anderson plug? to the battery direct or the jump terminals under the bonnet?
I did read somewhere to leave the battery terminals alone and come from the under bonnet terminals, but what a pain bringing heavy cables through the firewall etc. It should be all the same? providing you have a sound connection to the battery terminals. Any thoughts/ experiences?
Gap
Mt too, both +ve and earth from the battery. The +ve goes via an isolator slotted down next to the battery. The earth is connected to the earth post on the body right next to the battery. Going from the battery posts under the bonnet means your cable run will be maybe half as long again meaning your voltage drop will be half as big again.
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  #41  
Old 09-13-2014, 01:13 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Hey Guys,

Was about to bite the bullet and buy a DC - DC charger for the van and I came across this. Has anyone used one or what are your thoughts.

SC80 - 90 amps Standard Isolator | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

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  #42  
Old 09-14-2014, 02:05 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by chocco View Post
Hey Guys,

Was about to bite the bullet and buy a DC - DC charger for the van and I came across this. Has anyone used one or what are your thoughts.

SC80 - 90 amps Standard Isolator | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

Never heard of it! Traxide sounds like a back yard operation. There again, the gut behind it may be an electronic genius. My concern is that the isolator is rated at 90A so it will be able to take advantage of only about 40% of the 220A that the WK2 alternator is capable of supplying. The other issue is that in the blurb, there is no mention of the system's suitability to the Jeep's AGM battery. AGM batteries have slightly different characteristics to standard lead acid batteries. If you are willing to take the plunge, go for it, it's only $150. Otherwise stick to well known brands like Projecta or Redarc.
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  #43  
Old 09-14-2014, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
Never heard of it! Traxide sounds like a back yard operation. There again, the gut behind it may be an electronic genius. My concern is that the isolator is rated at 90A so it will be able to take advantage of only about 40% of the 220A that the WK2 alternator is capable of supplying. The other issue is that in the blurb, there is no mention of the system's suitability to the Jeep's AGM battery. AGM batteries have slightly different characteristics to standard lead acid batteries. If you are willing to take the plunge, go for it, it's only $150. Otherwise stick to well known brands like Projecta or Redarc.
There is a 160amp version as well. I thought that as the jeep has a agm battery and i have agm in the van as this unit can operate in shared mode/lower voltage due to the variable output alternator it might do the trick.

Apparently these units are big with the landrover mob.

The dc/dc charger needs a bit more wiring and i am getting lazy.
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  #44  
Old 09-14-2014, 08:40 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by chocco View Post
There is a 160amp version as well. I thought that as the jeep has a agm battery and i have agm in the van as this unit can operate in shared mode/lower voltage due to the variable output alternator it might do the trick.

Apparently these units are big with the landrover mob.

The dc/dc charger needs a bit more wiring and i am getting lazy.
Sounds good. Let us know how you get on.
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  #45  
Old 09-14-2014, 08:51 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I always get curious about the mystery devices being used to join the batteries. Is it a solenoid, relay bank, FET or other solid state device, etc? Why not mention it? Also, it doesn't mention that there is zero holding current to maintain the joined connection, so I'm guessing that there is some "lost" power involved. It'd be interesting to know how much energy is required to run the device.

Make a call?

Cheers,
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  #46  
Old 09-15-2014, 02:51 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
I always get curious about the mystery devices being used to join the batteries. Is it a solenoid, relay bank, FET or other solid state device, etc? Why not mention it? Also, it doesn't mention that there is zero holding current to maintain the joined connection, so I'm guessing that there is some "lost" power involved. It'd be interesting to know how much energy is required to run the device.

Make a call?

Cheers,
Steve
Made the call and will buy one.

Its relay switching, essentially is the SC80 x2 in one package to make the USI-160.

Goes to sleep after 3 days

Here is the link to the USI-160 for those that want more info.

USI-160 - 160 amp Winch Isolator | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV


Goes to sleep after 3 days

POWER CONSUMPTION. ON Mode ( both relays on ) = 320ma
SHARED Mode ( one relay on ) = 165ma
OFF Mode = 25ma
LOW POWER Mode = 10ma
All our isolators are supplied with a 5 year Parts and Labour warranty and a Lifetime Repair Guaranty
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