The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread - Page 6 - Jeep Garage - Jeep Forum

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  #61  
Old 08-20-2015, 04:56 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

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Originally Posted by Lewy2001 View Post
Anyone used one of these DC-DC charges.

Battery TO Battery Charger 12V 30A MK2 Charger DC TO DC DC DC NO Volt Drop Solar | eBay

After reading this thread it seems to be the most reliable way to charge the van battery. Instead of using Isolaters and very bulky battery cables.

Planning to use 8B&S twin core from battery to 50amp Anderson plug. Then run some more 8B&S twin core from Anderson plug at front of van to DC-DC charger located next to van battery. Much like diagram 1 in the EBAY listing.

Any comments or other alternatives ?????
As you probably have seen here are conflicting views on DCDC chargers. The main negative being the limiting of the charging current to the trailer batteries to the capacity of the charger.
On the other hand, the charger is programmed to provide the optimum charging voltage for the battery type and state.
Bear in mind that to increase the voltage to the required level, more current must be drawn from the alternator, so the wring need to reflect this.
I have the Redarc version of what you are looking at. My logic is that given I only have 50amp wiring, then I couldn't take advantage of higher alternator capability anyway, so I opted for the better charging management.
Having said that, I think there is a DCDC charger available which enables a bypass for bulk charging to take full current from the alternator until a certain charge level is reached, the switches to the charging management mode.
Thanks,
Russell

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  #62  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:04 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Lewy when designing a system you need to consider the size and chemistry of the bank you are recharging, how deep you expect to be discharging it, and how long you have to achieve the recharge. Then your recharge amperage requirements will be clear.

It seems a good price for 30A continuous. Bear in mind that DC-DC involves high frequency switching, which can bring about inherent reliability issues in such devices. Warranty and repercussion of failure should be a consideration... along with price.

Cheers,
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  #63  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:59 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Have a 130 Ah AGM Deep cycle and a 120W solar panel. I am starting to think that since most of my trips will only be 1-2 nights and that I could run the 3 way fridge from LPG maybe forget the whole charging from car and just have the solar and then use a good mains AGM recharger when I get back to base.

If and when I do longer trips I can look at the DC-DC charger then.

Thoughts???
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  #64  
Old 08-20-2015, 07:13 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Hmmm... the only remaining consideration is the fridge when on the road. There's a ton of conflict regarding having your gas bottles open whilst travelling. Is it illegal? I dunno. You certainly shouldn't refuel or even enter the servo with the fridge lit, and I tend to agree with those who insist that bottles are shut off when mobile.

Maybe you need to add fridge power into the plan you've detailed above. If you're not heavy on power consumption, you'll probably be fine with that.

Cheers,
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  #65  
Old 08-20-2015, 07:17 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I used an Isolator, which I store next to the Jeep battery, then run 6B&S to the powerboard on my van. Total run is about 6-7mtrs via the Anderson plug..
Bit hard to tell how good the charging is because I also have 3 x 130watt panels doing a good job.
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  #66  
Old 08-20-2015, 07:18 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Good advice Steve do not want things going bang
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  #67  
Old 08-21-2015, 08:20 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
As you probably have seen here are conflicting views on DCDC chargers. The main negative being the limiting of the charging current to the trailer batteries to the capacity of the charger.
On the other hand, the charger is programmed to provide the optimum charging voltage for the battery type and state.
Bear in mind that to increase the voltage to the required level, more current must be drawn from the alternator, so the wring need to reflect this.
I have the Redarc version of what you are looking at. My logic is that given I only have 50amp wiring, then I couldn't take advantage of higher alternator capability anyway, so I opted for the better charging management.
Having said that, I think there is a DCDC charger available which enables a bypass for bulk charging to take full current from the alternator until a certain charge level is reached, the switches to the charging management mode.
Thanks,
Russell
Yes there certainly is a lot of differing opinion on this. I guess the popular option is to go with a DC/DC converter. However, I've never been one to go for popular options. To me, using a DC/DC converter is a cop out to doing the job properly. Also, adding the converter introduces another failure mode and heaven knows we have enough of them already.
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  #68  
Old 09-09-2015, 04:58 AM
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The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Has anyone looked at using one of these - http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/pro...management/aoc

The fuse box has a 5A fuse in position F52 labelled Battery Sensor, I'm wondering would the AOC Fuse give me the boost I need to keep charging the second battery (Thumper) all the time.


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  #69  
Old 09-09-2015, 06:30 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

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Originally Posted by Butts_Oz View Post
Has anyone looked at using one of these - Alternator Output Compensator | Piranha Offroad 4WD Products

The fuse box has a 5A fuse in position F52 labelled Battery Sensor, I'm wondering would the AOC Fuse give me the boost I need to keep charging the second battery (Thumper) all the time.


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I considered this and similar equivalents. As far as I can see it defeats the intelligent part of a variable voltage alternator by forcing it into the mode of an old style constant voltage alternator. I figured there may be unintended consequences, so avoided it.
Thanks, russell
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:02 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

The alternator will still have varying output, however it be offset to a slightly higher voltage. So the full output will be raised by the same amount as the reduced output.

I would suspect that defeating the variable nature of the charging system would take some rather nifty stooging of the controlling devices, as they would likely be expecting to see an appropriate, varying response from the alternator based on the control signal being output.

I keep meaning to log voltage over a longer trip to gauge exactly how bad the charging regime may actually be for accessory batteries. From the coarse dash indication at least, it doesn't appear to fall as low as some of the makes which have variable output.

Cheers,
Steve
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:10 AM
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The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I am trying to lift the base rate above 13.2V which is the kick in point for the Thumper to recommence charging. The resting point seems to be consistently set between 12.8-13.0V.


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  #72  
Old 09-10-2015, 07:46 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Wow... that seems low. I'm sure I've seen higher than that at my trailer connection. I'll check tomorrow and confirm. Actually I'll wire my DVM to the battery and collect some running data, as I've been meaning to for ages.

I almost dare not mention it, but my only concern with a device which raises the alternator output in this fashion is whether a high voltage event may be logged, perhaps where our consumer OBD readers can't access. This would be a bad thing if discovered whilst seeking major electrical warranty work. Idle speculation, but just waving the caution flag because of the ramifications. In fairness, I guess it is only half a volt...

Personally, for $100 I'd be putting the money into DC-DC if a decent direct battery link isn't working for you and solar on the roof is not an option. The latter is how I set up my folk's 200 Series with an AGM in the boot and two panels on the roof (essentially because they had two). It works great, with the fridge able to be left running all the time.

FWIW I'm just running the fridge off the starting battery, and when I get to camp I plug into the van or 240V if available. I have the fridge set right on freezing... I'm not keeping salad, etc. So far it's been an acceptable solution for my application, despite it requiring a bit of dicking around.

Anyway, heading into chit-chat... I'm a bit bored... I'll grab some voltage measurements tomorrow.

Cheers,
Steve
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