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  #73  
Old 09-10-2015, 06:53 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

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Originally Posted by Butts_Oz View Post
Has anyone looked at using one of these - Alternator Output Compensator | Piranha Offroad 4WD Products

The fuse box has a 5A fuse in position F52 labelled Battery Sensor, I'm wondering would the AOC Fuse give me the boost I need to keep charging the second battery (Thumper) all the time.


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Correct me if I'm wrong but my guess is that the AOC fuse is little more than an expensive mini circuit breaker intended to eliminate the resistance of a standard fuse. If you are having a problem charging your Thumper then it's probably a result of inadequate cabling. If your cable is 6 B&S or better then it's not that but if it's the auto sparks' favourite, 6mm cable, then rip it out or duplicate it.

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  #74  
Old 09-10-2015, 07:13 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Bob it's basically a diode and fuse. It "fools" the alternator into winding up the wick by half a volt or so.

Cheers,
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:05 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

We just got back from a two week trip through central Australia. Our fridge was run off a thumper extreme elite 80ah which was charged via an anderson connection that was hooked to the original battery leads with a 50amp inline fuse (All supplied by blue apple). It worked flawlessly and we never had an issue charging it. It was quite cold and the fridge never drew much current but the thumper would always be completely charged after a driving for a short while. We had to jump a car once off it, again worked perfectly and was charged to full in very little time of driving

Another party with us was using a different external battery system to power their fridge and had problems keeping it charged through the 12v cigarette socket system. At most, the in built lcd indicated it would charge at a rate of 50-60 watts.


Butts, I just read your posts regarding your charging issues. What symptoms have you experienced that have led you to believe its not charging correctly? I never bothered to check the lcd screen for input/output on ours. I occasionally switched it on to see the volts and it nearly always displayed 12.9, which according to the written text on the thumper is 100% charged.
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  #76  
Old 09-11-2015, 07:16 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by vl_bt1 View Post
We just got back from a two week trip through central Australia. Our fridge was run off a thumper extreme elite 80ah which was charged via an anderson connection that was hooked to the original battery leads with a 50amp inline fuse (All supplied by blue apple). It worked flawlessly and we never had an issue charging it. It was quite cold and the fridge never drew much current but the thumper would always be completely charged after a driving for a short while. We had to jump a car once off it, again worked perfectly and was charged to full in very little time of driving

Another party with us was using a different external battery system to power their fridge and had problems keeping it charged through the 12v cigarette socket system. At most, the in built lcd indicated it would charge at a rate of 50-60 watts.


Butts, I just read your posts regarding your charging issues. What symptoms have you experienced that have led you to believe its not charging correctly? I never bothered to check the lcd screen for input/output on ours. I occasionally switched it on to see the volts and it nearly always displayed 12.9, which according to the written text on the thumper is 100% charged.

Thanks for your update and info. I'm finding my Thumper Elite 110aH requires a minimum of 13.2V from the feed to recharge whilst driving. Initial starting voltage is around 14V but once the main battery is happy, the variable system decides it only requires 13V, just short of the minimum required for the Thumper to charge.


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  #77  
Old 09-11-2015, 07:26 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

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Originally Posted by Butts_Oz View Post
Thanks for your update and info. I'm finding my Thumper Elite 110aH requires a minimum of 13.2V from the feed to recharge whilst driving. Initial starting voltage is around 14V but once the main battery is happy, the variable system decides it only requires 13V, just short of the minimum required for the Thumper to charge.


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Sounds like a good thing for your main battery though...
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  #78  
Old 09-12-2015, 07:47 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Butts_Oz View Post
Thanks for your update and info. I'm finding my Thumper Elite 110aH requires a minimum of 13.2V from the feed to recharge whilst driving. Initial starting voltage is around 14V but once the main battery is happy, the variable system decides it only requires 13V, just short of the minimum required for the Thumper to charge.
Just for comparison, my isolator supposedly has a cut-in voltage of 13.4V and cut-out of 12.8V. It works like a dream with the Jeep and trailer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
Bob it's basically a diode and fuse. It "fools" the alternator into winding up the wick by half a volt or so.

Cheers,
Steve
Thanks Steve! What do I know.
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  #79  
Old 09-12-2015, 07:21 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Iím pretty sure the below flea bay items are the same as the Piranha product, just a little cheaper! The fellow who sells these is a regular on the LCOOL forum, and there are a couple of threads about them, all positive.

alternator voltage booster | eBay

Some food for thought. A typical battery charger will charge a AGM battery to around 14.4v, a wet cell to around 14.7v. So if the alternator is putting out below 14v, donít expect the second battery to hit full charge. I have a Projecta DC-DC charger which takes the spare battery up to 14.4v, at around 20 amps, then floats it to 13.7v. I hate hot beer.
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  #80  
Old 09-18-2015, 04:52 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I have a 75ah Thumper, also from Blue Apple, who also supplied a "controller" - a black box connecting the car battery to the Thumper. It has an ignition switched trigger input which I ran from the rear cig lighter type outlet. So it's basically an isolator.
Without the Thumper connected, the car voltage (as per the dash gauge) runs at 14v for 15-30 mins after starting, then drops to 13v. With the Thumper connected, and partly discharged, the car runs at 14v for a couple of hours, then drops to 13v. Which supports the info I got from Blue Apple, that the alternator sees the Thumper as part of the car battery, and only drops voltage when both are charged. I have some concern that this means the car battery is getting a higher voltage than maybe it should be when it's fully charged, but I don't know how much this matters.
The Thumper never charges to as high a voltage when in the car as when I connect it to an intelligent Projector charger (high 12's vs mid 13's.), and this seems to make about half a day's difference when running the fridge, but not a big deal.
Unresolved is my understanding that for the car to recognise and manage the current draw of the Thumper charging, then it needs to have the Thumper's earth connection connected to the chassis, not the negative battery terminal as mine is. But, it all seems to work, and the Blue Apple controller is a lot cheaper, and smaller, than a DC-DC charger.
Thanks,
Russell
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  #81  
Old 09-18-2015, 07:36 PM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

I would have thought that when you have both batteries connected, the batteries would attempt to balance themselves out. Therefore, if the charge is at 14v, with a fully charged main battery, the main would also be feeding the aux battery if it had say a 12.5v charge.
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  #82  
Old 09-19-2015, 04:23 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Hadn't thought of it that way, but it is a good explanation - thanks.
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  #83  
Old 09-20-2015, 01:41 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I have a 75ah Thumper, also from Blue Apple, who also supplied a "controller" - a black box connecting the car battery to the Thumper. It has an ignition switched trigger input which I ran from the rear cig lighter type outlet. So it's basically an isolator.
Without the Thumper connected, the car voltage (as per the dash gauge) runs at 14v for 15-30 mins after starting, then drops to 13v. With the Thumper connected, and partly discharged, the car runs at 14v for a couple of hours, then drops to 13v. Which supports the info I got from Blue Apple, that the alternator sees the Thumper as part of the car battery, and only drops voltage when both are charged. I have some concern that this means the car battery is getting a higher voltage than maybe it should be when it's fully charged, but I don't know how much this matters.
The Thumper never charges to as high a voltage when in the car as when I connect it to an intelligent Projector charger (high 12's vs mid 13's.), and this seems to make about half a day's difference when running the fridge, but not a big deal.
Unresolved is my understanding that for the car to recognise and manage the current draw of the Thumper charging, then it needs to have the Thumper's earth connection connected to the chassis, not the negative battery terminal as mine is. But, it all seems to work, and the Blue Apple controller is a lot cheaper, and smaller, than a DC-DC charger.
Thanks,
Russell
I take it that your "black box" isolates the two batteries somehow because it wouldn't be a good idea to have batteries with possibly different chemistries wired in parallel.

Regarding connecting the Thumper to the chassis, electrically it's identical but from the point of view of losses, it is more efficient to connect the negative terminals together with battery cable. Also, while chassis earth is fine for normal use, I don't much like its use for heavy currents for fear of causing galvanic corrosion in the body work. I have both the +ve and -ve side of my Anderson plug wired all the way back to the battery terminals.
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  #84  
Old 09-20-2015, 02:20 AM
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Re: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
I take it that your "black box" isolates the two batteries somehow because it wouldn't be a good idea to have batteries with possibly different chemistries wired in parallel.

Regarding connecting the Thumper to the chassis, electrically it's identical but from the point of view of losses, it is more efficient to connect the negative terminals together with battery cable. Also, while chassis earth is fine for normal use, I don't much like its use for heavy currents for fear of causing galvanic corrosion in the body work. I have both the +ve and -ve side of my Anderson plug wired all the way back to the battery terminals.
It certainly isolates the car battery when the engine is not running. I don't know the circuit paths when they are both being charged though. In my case, both batteries are AGM.
My reason for thinking the chassis connection is relevant, is that I read that at least some intelligent alternator systems monitor the earth return current via a sensor in the battery negative lead between the battery and the chassis - but I don't know if that is in fact the case, particularly with the JGC.
Russell
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