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  #1225  
Old 03-02-2015, 09:03 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

thanks for that! i actually already printed out your wiring schematics!! LOL

just a quick question tho, with the way you wired everything up do you still need that activation from the ecu? and will it be the same as the manual says its for 11-13? any difference there or not?

the only part im scared of is the cutting of the rear bar..

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  #1226  
Old 03-02-2015, 09:19 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

No ECU activation is required Lance, though I've recently read from people with filament globe trailer lights that the MY14 will be unable to drive the lighting load. Therefore relays are required on the stop and tail... and if going to the trouble I'd personally consider doing the indicators too. Actually, my solution would be to change out the trailer lights!

Cutting the bar is actually pretty easy. If you can get two saw horses the bumper balances nicely on them. Masking tape the hell out of the area surrounding the cut, especially if you are using a jigsaw. Make sure the jigsaw base is clean with no burrs. Because I have Anderson plugs on my trailer, I made the cut out symmetrical the second time I did it... ie: big on both sides, not offset.

Let us know what tool you're using to cut with.

Oh, and the pinchweld has probably 8mm of cover, so if your workmanship isn't so great you could just cover it up. Otherwise, a fine file will remove any light cutting marks and leave you with a cut out you can proudly display. Hmmm... excuse the rusty towbar!

Cheers,
Steve
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  #1227  
Old 03-03-2015, 01:23 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I'm about to buy an offroad camper trailer. Probably a Tvan or a Kimberley Kamper. The KK is a bit heavier, so I'll use it as the example for my query:
I've searched a bit through this forum, but if it's been covered before - sorry.....
I've always thought that the tongue load limit was determined primarily by the tow bar and the part of the car it is mounted to, but looking at my manual, it seems that it is more determined by the total rear axle loading.
The KK has a GVM of 2000kg, and I estimate that the fully loaded tongue weight could be around 250kg - maybe more. Which is less than the 350kg max load for the JGC Diesel, but that is only for three 68 kg passengers with 7kg of luggage each. We'll for sure exceed that, but I don't know by how much yet.
So I have three questions:
1. Given that the 2000kg is not far below the Jeep threshold for a WDH, and that I might need to transfer some weight to the front axle, should I use a WDH?
2. If I use a WDH, how much, if at all, does that interfere with offroad travel?
3. Should all these weights - axles, tongue etc, be down rated for rough corrugated roads? I'd certainly do that if I was working out how much I could carry on a roof rack.
Comments would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Russell
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  #1228  
Old 03-03-2015, 01:47 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

The ball weight doesn't transfer to rear axle load directly Russell. Even stuff in the boot will apply more axle load than it actually weighs.

Comparing the ball weight against resultant rear axle load is on my "to do" list to when I visit the weighbridge. Some smart cookies here might be able to calculate it out?

Cheers,
Steve
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  #1229  
Old 03-03-2015, 02:15 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
The ball weight doesn't transfer to rear axle load directly Russell. Even stuff in the boot will apply more axle load than it actually weighs.

Comparing the ball weight against resultant rear axle load is on my "to do" list to when I visit the weighbridge. Some smart cookies here might be able to calculate it out?

Cheers,
Steve
Yeah, I guess it's related to the distance from the hitch point to the rear axle, and weight ahead of the rear axle with whatever leverage that applies. Still though, it seems the correct number to measure is the rear axle weight, regardless of the ball weight so long as it doesn't exceed 350kg. Do you use a WDH?
Russell
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  #1230  
Old 03-03-2015, 02:27 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

No I don't Russell.

I'm thinking about trying one out to minimise porpoising when the road has undulating irregularities. Essentially the Quadralift feels a bit under-dampened, and this increases as the airbags are emptied / lowered. It'd be nice to run them with a bit more air!

That said, at 2.5T and just under 200kg on the ball, my Manta Ray16D feels nice and stable as far as sway goes.

Cheers,
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  #1231  
Old 03-03-2015, 02:31 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
No I don't Russell.

I'm thinking about trying one out to minimise porpoising when the road has undulating irregularities. Essentially the Quadralift feels a bit under-dampened, and this increases as the airbags are emptied / lowered. It'd be nice to run them with a bit more air!

That said, at 2.5T and just under 200kg on the ball, my Manta Ray16D feels nice and stable as far as sway goes.

Cheers,
Steve
Offroad 1 would have more air! Of course, that does unreasonably lower your top speed...
Thanks,
Russell
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  #1232  
Old 03-03-2015, 02:48 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Offroad 1 would have more air! Of course, that does unreasonably lower your top speed...
Or does it?
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  #1233  
Old 03-03-2015, 03:06 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Or does it?
Unless we can get Customtronix to turn off the speed threshold, mine drops back into normal,height at 80kph.
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  #1234  
Old 03-03-2015, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I'm about to buy an offroad camper trailer. Probably a Tvan or a Kimberley Kamper. The KK is a bit heavier, so I'll use it as the example for my query:
I've searched a bit through this forum, but if it's been covered before - sorry.....
I've always thought that the tongue load limit was determined primarily by the tow bar and the part of the car it is mounted to, but looking at my manual, it seems that it is more determined by the total rear axle loading.
The KK has a GVM of 2000kg, and I estimate that the fully loaded tongue weight could be around 250kg - maybe more. Which is less than the 350kg max load for the JGC Diesel, but that is only for three 68 kg passengers with 7kg of luggage each. We'll for sure exceed that, but I don't know by how much yet.
So I have three questions:
1. Given that the 2000kg is not far below the Jeep threshold for a WDH, and that I might need to transfer some weight to the front axle, should I use a WDH?
2. If I use a WDH, how much, if at all, does that interfere with offroad travel?
3. Should all these weights - axles, tongue etc, be down rated for rough corrugated roads? I'd certainly do that if I was working out how much I could carry on a roof rack.
Comments would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Russell
The camper manufacturer should be able to answer that info, in particular an actual ball weight of the camper.

WDH on a offroad camper would be like putting training wheels on a Moto GP superbike. Defeats the purpose of having an offroad camper as the articulation will be limited.
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  #1235  
Old 03-03-2015, 07:53 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

I can't say that I have ever seen a Kimberly Trailer being towed with a WDH. I personally think it would be overkill, and as Bigskiddy said, it would be a disadvantage when offroad. I probably won't notice it on the back all too often. The Jeep will make mincemeat out of the hauling.
If you are buying from a KK dealer, listen to their advice, and before travelling too far, and after you have loaded up all your personal items, take the car and trailer over a weighbridge. Better to obtain your own readings, then rely on the factory averages. Then go out and get dirty.
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  #1236  
Old 03-03-2015, 08:30 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
No ECU activation is required Lance, though I've recently read from people with filament globe trailer lights that the MY14 will be unable to drive the lighting load. Therefore relays are required on the stop and tail... and if going to the trouble I'd personally consider doing the indicators too. Actually, my solution would be to change out the trailer lights!

Cutting the bar is actually pretty easy. If you can get two saw horses the bumper balances nicely on them. Masking tape the hell out of the area surrounding the cut, especially if you are using a jigsaw. Make sure the jigsaw base is clean with no burrs. Because I have Anderson plugs on my trailer, I made the cut out symmetrical the second time I did it... ie: big on both sides, not offset.

Let us know what tool you're using to cut with.

Oh, and the pinchweld has probably 8mm of cover, so if your workmanship isn't so great you could just cover it up. Otherwise, a fine file will remove any light cutting marks and leave you with a cut out you can proudly display. Hmmm... excuse the rusty towbar!

Cheers,
Steve

thanks heaps steve!! Will be picking the tow bar up this monday when we go to syd. Its coming off a wreck for cheap.

I dont know yet what to use as a tool to cut it. I dont think buying a dremel just to cut the rear would be a smart idea as i dont have anything to use it for again. what option do i have in cutting the rear? How about a stanley knife? Is there any other options to cut it before installing the tow bar? im kinda reluctant to remove the rear bar, i might not be able to put it back!!

in saying that im mechanically minded and installed / replace a few engines already. cutting panels / plastic panels is one thing i am scared the most. Never was good at my drawing classes back then!
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