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  #1321  
Old 04-19-2015, 07:08 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Here's what I hope is a dumb question: assuming I have a good proportional brake controller, will the trailer brakes be activated appropriately when using Hill Descent Control?
Thanks,
Russell

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  #1322  
Old 04-19-2015, 07:19 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Yes... if the brake lights come on, which I'm 99% sure they do.
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  #1323  
Old 05-10-2015, 07:05 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Hi want to get a Tekonsha brake controller fitted to my MY14 Laredo. Wasn't able to locate the wiring harness to connect it to that was mentioned elsewhere, so the question is, can one if these be fitted to my car? If I supplied the unit, how much might I expect to pay to get an auto-sparky to connect it?


Cheers, Simon
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  #1324  
Old 05-10-2015, 10:46 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Probably $250 give or take $50. Would vary depending on the location specified for the controller as much as the charge out rate per hour.

You haven't mentioned what you'll be towing, but you might also want to consider whether to run a 12v battery feed to the back too. The extra cost should be pretty much parts only.

Cheers,
Steve
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:53 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
Probably $250 give or take $50. Would vary depending on the location specified for the controller as much as the charge out rate per hour.

You haven't mentioned what you'll be towing, but you might also want to consider whether to run a 12v battery feed to the back too. The extra cost should be pretty much parts only.

Cheers,
Steve

Thanks Steve, I'll be towing a Jayco Flamingo, so will definitely consider adding the 12V supply. I presume this could charge the onboard battery while we travel?


Cheers, Simon
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  #1326  
Old 05-10-2015, 08:07 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by sironic View Post
Hi want to get a Tekonsha brake controller fitted to my MY14 Laredo. Wasn't able to locate the wiring harness to connect it to that was mentioned elsewhere, so the question is, can one if these be fitted to my car? If I supplied the unit, how much might I expect to pay to get an auto-sparky to connect it?


Cheers, Simon
I was just quoted $635 for supply and fitting of a Redarc Tow Pro controller. The controller is listed at $340 on the Redarc site. This controller requires the mounting of both the controller and the remote knob, so install may be a bit lower for the Tekonsha.
Supply and install 6mm2 power cabling to an Anderson connector on the tow bar is quoted at an additional $215.
I'm going to be running a DC-DC converter in my camper trailer, and for the Jeep, this requires an ignition switched power circuit via the trailer connector. That is quoted as an additional $110.
And THEN, there is an additional cost for running a camera cable from the towbar to the centre monitor. In total, not cheap!
Russell
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  #1327  
Old 05-10-2015, 08:20 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by sironic View Post
Hi want to get a Tekonsha brake controller fitted to my MY14 Laredo. Wasn't able to locate the wiring harness to connect it to that was mentioned elsewhere, so the question is, can one if these be fitted to my car? If I supplied the unit, how much might I expect to pay to get an auto-sparky to connect it?


Cheers, Simon
For some dumb reason they didn't wire the export GC's to allow plug-n-play brake controllers. Ours have to be hard wired. Best to look way back through this thread to see how to do it right. Quite a few guys have spent many hours working it out. An auto sparky hasn't got time for that. He'll take short cuts. Maybe it will work, sort of.
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  #1328  
Old 05-10-2015, 08:24 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by sironic View Post
Thanks Steve, I'll be towing a Jayco Flamingo, so will definitely consider adding the 12V supply. I presume this could charge the onboard battery while we travel?


Cheers, Simon
Yep that's the plan Simon. Even if you have solar installed on the van, I think it's still worth having a recharge feed from the car.

I've been linking to the following thread a bit, and after a read you might feel comfortable to give the job a go yourself.

MY14 DIY Trailer Socket Wiring

Cheers,
Steve
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  #1329  
Old 05-11-2015, 01:13 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by sironic View Post
Thanks Steve, I'll be towing a Jayco Flamingo, so will definitely consider adding the 12V supply. I presume this could charge the onboard battery while we travel?


Cheers, Simon


Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I was just quoted $635 for supply and fitting of a Redarc Tow Pro controller. The controller is listed at $340 on the Redarc site. This controller requires the mounting of both the controller and the remote knob, so install may be a bit lower for the Tekonsha.
Supply and install 6mm2 power cabling to an Anderson connector on the tow bar is quoted at an additional $215.
I'm going to be running a DC-DC converter in my camper trailer, and for the Jeep, this requires an ignition switched power circuit via the trailer connector. That is quoted as an additional $110.
And THEN, there is an additional cost for running a camera cable from the towbar to the centre monitor. In total, not cheap!
Russell
I had this done in December.

Bought the Tekonsha P3 from ebay AutoelecAU
Tekonsha P3 Prodigy Caravan Trailer Electric Brake Controller Bonus | eBay $164 it cost me

I planned to run a switched 12V to an Anderson plug for charging the van when on the road.
The JGC has a variable voltage alternator (a lot of new common rail diesels have these nowadays) and it means the output may be less than the normal 14V.
Realised I needed a DC-DC charger for this so i bought one, also from ebay AutoelecAU Ctek D250S Dual DC TO DC Solar Battery Charger 12V 12 Volt DCDC CAR AGM Caravan | eBay cost me $249

The Auto electrician conveniently around the corner from my work charges $90/hr and hit me for 4 hrs installation for the Tekonsha and the DC cables plus about $120 for a Relay and the 6mm cables and an Anderson plug set and a few other misc bits. Gave me a bit of extra 6mm red & black for the DC-DC charger. Total about $500.
I thought that was pretty steep but the cable isn't cheap and hey,... it would take me a hell of lot more than 4hrs which i didnt have spare at the time.

They threaded all the cabling into the cubby-bin in near the media ports. I had previously drilled the holes for then. I mounted the P3 myself inside the console (sometime later). Took me about 90 mins work I think.

The DC-DC charger I connected up in the caravan myself. Only took 20 minutes. The C-tek has a temperature probe for the battery being charged so obviously it has to go next to the battery in the van. Tested .....It charges fine on the move.

We can hook up the Solar Panel directly (max 22V without a regulator) into the van's Anderson plug and the C-tek DC-DC regulates the charging the same way as it does when the JGC is towing.

When i get around to doing a rear-view camera I'll probably do all the cabling myself.
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  #1330  
Old 05-11-2015, 02:11 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve1307 View Post
I had this done in December.

Bought the Tekonsha P3 from ebay AutoelecAU
Tekonsha P3 Prodigy Caravan Trailer Electric Brake Controller Bonus | eBay $164 it cost me

I planned to run a switched 12V to an Anderson plug for charging the van when on the road.
The JGC has a variable voltage alternator (a lot of new common rail diesels have these nowadays) and it means the output may be less than the normal 14V.
Realised I needed a DC-DC charger for this so i bought one, also from ebay AutoelecAU Ctek D250S Dual DC TO DC Solar Battery Charger 12V 12 Volt DCDC CAR AGM Caravan | eBay cost me $249

The Auto electrician conveniently around the corner from my work charges $90/hr and hit me for 4 hrs installation for the Tekonsha and the DC cables plus about $120 for a Relay and the 6mm cables and an Anderson plug set and a few other misc bits. Gave me a bit of extra 6mm red & black for the DC-DC charger. Total about $500.
I thought that was pretty steep but the cable isn't cheap and hey,... it would take me a hell of lot more than 4hrs which i didnt have spare at the time.

They threaded all the cabling into the cubby-bin in near the media ports. I had previously drilled the holes for then. I mounted the P3 myself inside the console (sometime later). Took me about 90 mins work I think.

The DC-DC charger I connected up in the caravan myself. Only took 20 minutes. The C-tek has a temperature probe for the battery being charged so obviously it has to go next to the battery in the van. Tested .....It charges fine on the move.

We can hook up the Solar Panel directly (max 22V without a regulator) into the van's Anderson plug and the C-tek DC-DC regulates the charging the same way as it does when the JGC is towing.

When i get around to doing a rear-view camera I'll probably do all the cabling myself.

Got a quote of $265 to install the P3 and a 12V line to the trailer plug. Bought the P3 off eBay $167

Presumably the camper battery mgmt system can handle this 12V feed without an isolator or DC-DC charger? I'm new to all this, have never towed before..


Cheers, Simon
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  #1331  
Old 05-11-2015, 02:40 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I'd spend my money on solar before a DC-DC converter. The alternator will always beat a converter at start-up, because the voltage is adequate and the available current is easily all a battery can take. This can't always be said of a DC-DC converter, and batteries like a good boot of initial current to properly commence deep recharge. 20A is less than desirable, and a modest solar setup will not fill the shortfall.

Then with your alternator having done the hard yards, some solar mounted to your van is most likely to have adequate output to finish the battery charging off if/as the alternator scales back.

Whilst this could be debated until all the piss is drunk and all the firewood burnt, the upshot is the solar will always do something for you when parked up. If you can't get the results you need without overloading the pop-up roof, then fit the DC-DC converter after identifying that you do actually need one.

FWIW, I'd only run one on a changeover system, in parallel with the alternator, and typically I don't see less than 14V on the dash until the van has completed a majority recharge.

Cheers,
Steve
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  #1332  
Old 05-11-2015, 04:12 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Im currently wiring in a Redarc tow-pro. Im planning on running a hotwire from the battery as well. Where are people putting your circuit breakers and solenoids? There appears to be enough space on console side of battery but wondering if anyone has any better solution. The main unit is mounted under centre console right next to the transmission lever.
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