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  #1333  
Old 05-11-2015, 05:26 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Tow Pro is definitely the go. I had to finish my installation about a month before it retailed.

Anyway, I put the fuse and breaker where you describe. The isolator is in the boot, under the floor, behind the sub. I didn't want to hear it, plus space isn't that abundant alongside the battery. My distribution is back there too.

If you don't have Quadralift, under the passenger's seat would take the lot.

Cheers,
Steve

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  #1334  
Old 05-11-2015, 05:09 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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  #1335  
Old 05-11-2015, 06:45 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by indydof View Post
Im currently wiring in a Redarc tow-pro. Im planning on running a hotwire from the battery as well. Where are people putting your circuit breakers and solenoids? There appears to be enough space on console side of battery but wondering if anyone has any better solution. The main unit is mounted under centre console right next to the transmission lever.
I located my Isolation switch beside the battery. I installed a Projecta 150A, which fits snugly next to the battery. From there I ran 6mm cable back to the Anderson plug. On the van side, I used 6b&s wire back to the circuit board. All in all, I have a run of about 7mtrs between battery's. I have not used a DC/DC charger. I may have got a better result if I did, and would not have to have used such heavy wire. However, the system appears to work satisfactorily, and I still have good voltage at the Anderson Plug if I need to connect anything, such as a compressor.
Mind you, I also have 3 x 130A solar panels, a 2Kv genny and 2Kv inverter on board the van.
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  #1336  
Old 05-11-2015, 08:55 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

i know this isnt the right place to ask but someone following this thread may know the answer.
someone here posted pics of a roofrack fitted with max traxx late last year, cant find the post for the life of me or the owner any help appreciated looking for some ideas. didnt want to waste the question in a new thread
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  #1337  
Old 05-11-2015, 09:12 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Check out Brisbane day trips
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  #1338  
Old 05-11-2015, 10:44 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

thanks mate but not the one i remember im sure it was maybe in a build thread, he had a few pictures of it on the ground and installed.

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  #1339  
Old 05-12-2015, 06:15 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by sironic View Post
Got a quote of $265 to install the P3 and a 12V line to the trailer plug. Bought the P3 off eBay $167

Presumably the camper battery mgmt system can handle this 12V feed without an isolator or DC-DC charger? I'm new to all this, have never towed before..


Cheers, Simon
$265 is OK i guess and especially if it includes the Anderson plug cables etc. Certainly less than what I paid to get it done anyway.

The Jayco setups vary depending on the model /year.
I think the Jayco "touring" versions didnt even have a battery! at some point. My Outback 2008 has an AGM battery and a standard Jayco issue piece of kit "Setec ST35" which is only converting 240VAC to 12VDC to charge the battery and run all the 12v lights etc.
Jayco Customers - Setec


For my version is no 12V in this "Setec" thing for charging the battary.
I just had the cable from the Anderson plug straight into the battery.

With my old tow vehicle this was fine, constant 14V output.

This new Jeep has this voodoo smart alternator so i figured I'd need the DC-DC if only recharging on the move. The dash is always indicating battery voltage at 14V, i've never bothered to actually measure whats coming out of the plug at the back.
Theory is the alternator reduces the voltage output maybe down to only 7-8V when the battery in the car is fully charged in order to save fuel.


The other alternative of solar on the roof of the van as Steve (Barboots) suggest is a good way to go especially if you're out bush as the batteries are topped up for free.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
I'd spend my money on solar before a DC-DC converter. The alternator will always beat a converter at start-up, because the voltage is adequate and the available current is easily all a battery can take. This can't always be said of a DC-DC converter, and batteries like a good boot of initial current to properly commence deep recharge. 20A is less than desirable, and a modest solar setup will not fill the shortfall.

Then with your alternator having done the hard yards, some solar mounted to your van is most likely to have adequate output to finish the battery charging off if/as the alternator scales back.

Whilst this could be debated until all the piss is drunk and all the firewood burnt, the upshot is the solar will always do something for you when parked up. If you can't get the results you need without overloading the pop-up roof, then fit the DC-DC converter after identifying that you do actually need one.

FWIW, I'd only run one on a changeover system, in parallel with the alternator, and typically I don't see less than 14V on the dash until the van has completed a majority recharge.

Cheers,
Steve
"Whilst this could be debated until all the piss is drunk and all the firewood burnt....."

If going bush Solar is the way to go for sure. If i had them fixed to the van I probably wouldn't bother with the DC-DC hooking up to the car.
Inerestingly, the newest Jayco "Outback spec" vans i've had a look at all come with solar and no charging from the vehicle.

FWIW I've got a portable solar setup (180W? already fitted with an MPPT regulator) but it's a pain in the backside to cart around if we're only going to powered sites with 6-7hrs driving in between.

The wife likes "camping" with all facilities and paying $60+ a night

I've used my solar panels ohh... about ZERO times in the last 2 years.
Last time we went camping "off grid" was 2012. With another baby on the way, it's not likely any time soon.
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  #1340  
Old 05-23-2015, 06:20 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

What is the best/easiest methody of installing a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller to a 2010 Patriot?
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  #1341  
Old 05-23-2015, 07:50 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicjak View Post
i know this isnt the right place to ask but someone following this thread may know the answer.
someone here posted pics of a roofrack fitted with max traxx late last year, cant find the post for the life of me or the owner any help appreciated looking for some ideas. didnt want to waste the question in a new thread

Hi nicjak
BennO sent a photo of roof rack fitting for Maxtraxx in Brisbane day trips thread and I found them at TJM
Cheers


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  #1342  
Old 05-23-2015, 08:48 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Thanks mate yes i found that pic the other day helpful but not the one ive been trying to find cheers
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  #1343  
Old 06-11-2015, 07:44 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
Tow Pro is definitely the go. I had to finish my installation about a month before it retailed.

Anyway, I put the fuse and breaker where you describe. The isolator is in the boot, under the floor, behind the sub. I didn't want to hear it, plus space isn't that abundant alongside the battery. My distribution is back there too.

If you don't have Quadralift, under the passenger's seat would take the lot.

Cheers,
Steve
It's good to see that Redarc has finally seen the light and gone electronic/proportional. I like the remote function. However, their chunky relay based battery isolators still seem to be bogged down in the old manual fourbie era.
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  #1344  
Old 06-11-2015, 09:07 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

I like an even chunkier, more archaic Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoid. There is no substitute for contact size and quality of metal when it comes to switching current and passing amps over a longer duration. Using multiple smaller elements to switch doesn't make sense when you consider that it's unlikely that different electromechanical devices will always operate at exactly the same speed.

Some basic technologies still have their place.

Cheers,
Steve
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